Attached are several pics I have taken of my Spring 1. If you need more just let me know. All of the pictures were taken with the pin engaged except for the ones where I am showing the width of the shed. Before taking any pictures of the loom I checked the height of the shafts and lams. I can see in the pics that there are a few that need some fine adjustment but overall the lower lamm is at 34 cm, the upper lamm is 53, the lower harness bar 60, and the upper harness bar is 95 cm. After reviewing the pictures of the open shed I noticed that behind the heddles and in front of the heddles the shed was beautifully large. The reduced shed happens after the threads come through the reed. So my partner helped me to lower the beater bar all the way and then raised it three turns. That helped with the size of the shed in front of the reed. But now the bottom threads do not touch the shuttle race but they are close enough that I don’t think it will create any issues when the shuttle is thrown.
With the help that you and your team have already provided improvements have already been made. I have hope once more. I will continue fine-tuning the heights of the lams and shafts until they all are the exact measurements recommended by Louet.
You just need a little more tweaking. It is really important that all those harness bars and lamms be parallel to each other. This is what my Spring looks like.
Top harness bars, are all flat and even with each other
Lamms
Because both of these parts move at the same time they need to be the same height on every single one of them….if they are out a titch it won’t matter. But more than a titch….it matters.
Your tie-up cords look wonky to me. The longs should all be 52 cm and the shorts should be 33. You have a lot of differential in those cords. If all the shorts are the right length and all the longs are the right length, and you have them attached to the lamms the same way…ie, looped through the first hole when attached to the Lamm and attached to the last hole on the cord, then everything moves the same distance. This is what mine looks like.
You can have a titch of slack in them like this.
But when you put the slightest bit of pressure on the treadle they should end up straight, like this AND MY Blocking pin is still in. Always do your tie-up with the blocking pin in.
This is where my warp comes through the reed….just south of the centre
This is what my shed looks like when all those measurements are perfect.
It is 3” inches deep, not the full depth of the reed but it is a honking big shed.
So, I would start with fine-tuning the harness bars and lamms, then fine-tune your treadle cord lengths or maybe it is just how they are attached to the Lamm or screw…..and then step on a treadle. Do ALL YOUR FINE TUNING WITH THE BLOCKING PIN IN.
Then take the blocking pin out and see how your shed is. If everything is even in the shed when it is open but the bottom of your open warp is not sitting on the shuttle race …..then you have to raise your beater until it is.
It is not far out but we can make it perfect and then once it is perfect, don’t move a thing…..I have a Spring loom that is 36 years old and I have never had a piece of texsolv stretch or need tweaking – that loom has woven thousands of yards of fabric.
