Sett for Waffle Weave

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I have a structure question.  I am going to make waffle weave tea towels with 8/2 cotton. The pattern says 24 epi.  You recommend 20 epi for plain weave and 22-24 epi for a twill.  I would like to understand why the waffle weave requires a tighter structure.  Could I make the tea towels at 22 epi?  In my mind’s eye, I see the waffle weave as more 3 dimensional than plain weave and twill.  Also, the reading I have done suggests that a plain weave hem/border can be very wobbly because of the waffle weave threading.  I haven’t woven waffle weave before.  Any comments and observations would be appreciated.

You need to use the twill sett because waffle weave has such long floats.  If your sett is more open then your weft will pack down and you won’t have a balanced weave…you will have weft-faced waffle which won’t be waffle anymore.  Waffle weave needs to be balanced to make the little indents.  Use the 24 epi as suggested. You should do your hem in twill if you are using the same weft thread as your waffle.  Plain weave will push out because in p.w. your weft intersects with every warp thread pushing them apart, but your waffle will draw in because of the long floats…your warp threads will be coming together under the floats. If you are really set on weaving your hem in p.w. then use a much finer weft thread like sewing thread because it will take up less space as it interlaces between your warp threads which will draw them in.

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