It just seems that double-weave selvedges are much MUCH fussier than other types of weaving selvedges. How can I produce clean ones without having to hand manipulate each pick?
I always say that selvedges are like teenage boys always trying to sneak out and cause trouble. It is our job to keep them in line. I speak from experience as I have 3…the last one just left the teenagehood! When your edge threads are acting up, tighten up your line of defence and tell them what you want them to do by adapting your technique. One thing before the pictures…..advance your warp often when weaving Doubleweave because as you weave closer to your castle you put more tension on the warp ……the shed can’t open as easily. When you are going from layer to layer your weft thread is stitching your sides together and, if your shed opening is gaping, it will be hard if not impossible to make your weft join look exactly the same each time. The looms mouth is struggling to open wide and your weft is trying to stitch it shut. When you have woven too close to the beater you see the evidence of this when you advance your warp. You see a loopy edge which is the excess weft trying to stitch your mouth shut. I know that sounds kinda crazy but sometimes creating a visual in our minds is helpful.
Here we see the project. I have done it with two colours to contrast the join. The top layer is green, the bottom layer is pink.
When I cross my wefts I always do the same thing each time. The top shuttle goes under the bottom. The green from the top went under the pink (resting thread) and notice the tension on the pink thread. My left hand is holding tension on the pink weft by controlling the bobbin in the shuttle. It is that tension on the resting thread that makes a clean selvedge.
Sometimes we get these little bubbles and this is when you tell that kid to straighten up! You do that by putting tension on the resting weft…..see below.
I pulled on the pink thread and my bubble disappears. Hope this helps.