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I am putting a downpayment on a new David, but I cannot decide on which width to get. It seems like a lot more width for only $150 more but I have never had a loom wider than 27″ and I am not sure I would want to weave anything wider than I already do. Help! Suggestions?
I want to get a David, but I have only warped F2B. It seems like this loom is made to only warp B2F. Does the back beam come off easily if I want to warp F2B? I tried to learn the other way, but it seemed so difficult with many more steps to it and I like to design at the loom.September 15, 2019 at 1:03 pm in reply to: Thoughts on 3.8.3 – Supplementary Warp, Dealing with Your Floats and a Tad More on Design #155942
Does anyone else have trouble with buffering? The videos keep stopping every minute or two. Any fixes for this?September 7, 2019 at 12:19 pm in reply to: Thoughts on 3.8.1 – Introduction to Supplementary Warps #155915
I went with brassard magenta since it was a better matchSeptember 7, 2019 at 12:16 pm in reply to: Thoughts on 3.8.1 – Introduction to Supplementary Warps #155914
I can’t find 16/2 raspberry here in the U.S. – what color is close to it? There is Cerise, Scarlet, and Garnet available
I have an example of how too much fulling can ruin the scarf. I tried “throwing” the way I do when felting but it was too much.
I am ready to do the fulling process on my scarf and I wonder if it is okay to “throw” the scarf the way I do when making nuno felt scarves. Otherwise the process seems similar.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by sharikalb.
I do a lot of felting and I am wondering if “throwing” the scarf wouldn’t help full it faster. Would using warmer water help also?
Yes I am on Safari and the video stops every 2-3 seconds.
Check out Liz Gipson – she is on You Tube and she uses a warping board for her rigid heddle looms. I direct warp on a RH loom, it is much easier and you can design as you go. If you have a wide warp, just use more of those little warping pegs that you attach to a table. If I warp my large RH loom, I line a bunch of them up along a table. https://yarnworker.com/warping-doesnt-have-to-be-scary-weave-along-color-and-weave-warping-tips/
The other option, is to use a smaller warping board and do a hybrid method, for longer warps. I can’t find the picture, but you basically lay the small warping board flat on a table, and clamp it down with vice grips or some other way. You can then just wind as much as you need and make the last wind go around a single warping peg and backtrack, put through your slot and so forth.
Ginette, thank you so much for the encouragement. I had to totally scrap the project and cut it off the loom; terrible waste of good cotton and two days of work. So yes, I am totally frustrated, but I am going to just step away from the loom, the warping board, and all for now and take a break until I feel I can tackle it again. I will likely never try to use such thin threads again though; think I will stick to larger diameter yarns.
Thanks. I went ahead and did that and just before winding on, I took out the lease sticks because something was hanging up my warp winding on the beam. Now I have it wound on but no lease sticks. What to do? I pretty much know the order of the threads but I have already taken them out of the raddle. I think I will never try B2F again – going back to the other way.
I would be putting two threads in each dent for 24 epi but using only one thread for each weft pick, correct?
It will be balanced even if I have 2 threads in a dent at 24 epi?
On her master sett chart it says 24 epi for 2/8 cotton twill so I went with that.