Forum Replies Created
Hi Josephine, I have mended many a broken mohair warp thread in my life and I do it like any other broken thread. Bring in a new thread and weave it down into your woven web a good few inches. Then weight the other end or tie it to the broken warp thread with a bow way back near the warp beam. When the original end is long enough you can weave it back into the warp and drop the added end. Watch your draw-in…leave a high angle on the weft and it will help with abrasion.1July 21, 2020 at 7:43 am in reply to: Thoughts on 3.9.1 – Introduction to Supplementary Warp with a Supplementary Weft #173739
High Five Christine, WOW! 😉0
Some kind of strain is making those lamms pop out or off….and it could be caused from several things.
1. It could be your tie-up. Remember to do your tie-up with the blocking pin in. With a counter-marche loom you can never have a long and a short cord for one harness going to the treadle. So if you want harness one to rise…tie a short cord to your lower lamm 1 and then long cords to 2,3,4,5,6. Your lower lamms are your risers and your upper lamms are your sinkers.
So if by chance you have a muddle in your tie-up that would force the lamms out of the texsolve because you are telling a harness to go up and down at the same time and it is saying….let me out of here 🙂
2. Your warp is pretty darn dense for 8/4 cotton in plain weave. I sett 8/4 at 12 EPI for a single layer…and you have it sett at 16. It will be much easier to weave with fewer ends per inch.
Those are the 2 thoughts that pop into my mind right now. Let us know how you are getting along.
And to ease your mind…what is happening to you is not normal. The new harness ends have been in use now for quiet sometime and I have not heard of them being a problem, only a blessing 🙂
That made my day Penny 🙂1
To all you kids wanting patterns…..we are definitely thinking about it. Time is always the issue for us and especially right now. I have made a note of this and we’ll see what we can do in the future. Maybe we’ll be able to add that next year. The up coming show and tells are so much fun. We film again on Monday with a very small crew, like 1 camera man. Hopefully we’ll be able to get the same kind of footage. Fingers crossed.3
I did provide that tie-up in the Ganges Sunrise Kit…for weaving the 3/1 and 1/3 twills on 4 shafts with only 6 treadles….and I thought I had given it in the episode…but alas….I must not have. We are doing some filming next week for Episode 5 and I’ll make sure it is in the notes to add….there are a bunch of little things I’ll forgotten. I need to make even better notes for filming 🙂
Congratulations on weaving at 89…..what an inspiration. I sure hope I’m weaving at 89.
I will be doing this but not for awhile yet. We will do a bit of block work next year as it pertains to lace weaves and if you understand that you will be able to take it to repp. I’m sure there are many great articles on this in Handwoven Magazine….if you go to their website you can search their index and perhaps find some of those articles. You might have that issue of your guild might…or you could purchase it. If you can ever get you hands on books by Laila Lundell they are worth every penny.
Hope this helps,
jane1April 22, 2020 at 6:43 pm in reply to: Thoughts on 1.2 – Making a Good Warp – Warping on a Warping Board #163281
Hi Lorraine, don’t worry about it…just take the colour you need …it will all come forward as you advance nicely. Honestly truly.2
Yes, I use a direct tie-up if I’m doing it on a 4 shaft loom. If you’re doing it on an 8 shaft loom, you have more treadles available so you can tie-up the 1/3 and the 3/1….you are still only using 4 shafts.
Hope this helps,
Jane1March 18, 2020 at 3:40 pm in reply to: Thoughts on 2.4 – Dressing Your Loom Back to Front – Threading the Heddles #159853
Well Stephanie, every single one of us has done this at least once. It may be okay if you are very careful. The first thing I would do would be to put a piece of painters tape right across all the your threads on the back thread beam because they are probably pretty straight right now. Tape them right to the beam. This tape will help keep them in order. Then I would work with one section from the raddle at a time. Weavers who wind onto sectional beams don’t have a cross and when I used to do it I would tape each bundle flat from the tension box and thread carefully from there. This is why you want to use a type of tape that is easily removable. Painters tape works very well for this.
Hope this helps,
Jane1March 4, 2020 at 10:21 am in reply to: Shafts (harnesses) not returning to neutral after treadling #158550
Well it definitely isn’t a density issue. Are your tie-up cords coming straight down and attaching on the last hole of the cord….Even one cord that is wrapping the wrong way could cause something like this. You have never had this problem in the past so it makes me think it is something different in your tie-up and with the path of the cords. Sometimes another pair of eyes is helpful….so many times I don’t see something and then I get someone else to look at it and THERE IT IS!!!! Arg 🙂0March 3, 2020 at 8:49 pm in reply to: Shafts (harnesses) not returning to neutral after treadling #158491
The only thing I can think of is the density on your 1’s and 2’. What is size of your warp and what are your ends per inch?0March 3, 2020 at 7:35 pm in reply to: Shafts (harnesses) not returning to neutral after treadling #158486
I know this is probably a lame question but have you checked your tie-up?0
Super cool Ed 🙂
I’ll try to post more often….it is just that Ginette and Sandra do such a kick ass job!2
I sett mine at 20. I never really think of deflected double weave as a true double weave. You don’t have to double the density of the warp like you do in say a double width piece of cloth. I always think of it as blocks of plain weave that deflect under and over each other. I think it should be called deflecting plain weave blocks 🙂
Hope this helps,