Patricia

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  • in reply to: Louet David Loom #60589
    Patricia
    Participant

      Carol, I LOVE my new David loom… and following Jane’s methods (some a bit different than what I’m used to over the last ten years of weaving) has resulted in a lovely first project (the pinwheel napkins shown in the threading photo and underway in the photo below).

      two shuttles

      My selvedges are the best! I attribute that to (a) using moderate tension (as Jane suggests) rather than my previous “trampoline” tension; and (b) beating on an open shed rather than my previous beat on a closing shed. Following Jane’s early videos in the first season was incredibly helpful and the results are fantastic.

      I did NOT use a temple for this project (I’ve previously been using a temple with every project), since my tension was moderate and my draw-in was minimal (because of the open shed beat). One of my instructors in the past, Madelyn van der Hoogt, wrote this excellent description of when to use/not use a temple:

      https://www.interweave.com/article/weaving/need-use-temple/

      The David is everything I was expecting! So far, I’m really enjoying the ergonomics of this loom…. everything seems to be a much easier process – exactly what I was hoping for when I took a “leap of faith” to buy a new loom sight unseen (ie, without “test driving,” as there is no local dealer with one for me to try out).

      I haven’t experienced any downside to the David – and have a series of 3 previous jack looms for comparison over the last 10 years (Schacht 8-harness 46″ standard floor loom in 2008; then downsized to a Schacht 8-harness 36″ Mighty Wolf in 2011; and 6 months in 2010 with 4-harness Schacht Wolf Pup).

      I am in my mid-60s, and my last warp on the Mighty Wolf I sold had a Swedish inlay border (dukagang style) which required treadle 1 to be tied up with shafts 3-8… heavy and farthest left, with more than the usual hip pain. That was the “last straw” with the increasing hip/knee issues. I spent quite a bit of time reading/viewing reviews and videos of the David 90cm, and came to the conclusion (based on its similar footprint to my Mighty Wolf, and relative cost) that it would be the best choice for my needs. And, in the two months I have owned it, it has indeed fulfilled all my expectations.

      Probably more information than you were looking for, but I don’t think you would be disappointed with the David 90cm if this loom is within your size and price requirements. If I were starting again, with a bigger “loom room” and a larger budget, the Louet Spring would probably be my choice. Good luck with your purchase!

      in reply to: Louet David Loom #60571
      Patricia
      Participant

        Just as Ginette says… very easy to take off the breast beam and sliding beater.  Here is my new (delivered two months ago) David in the midst of threading:threading front loom

        in reply to: Monte Cristo Baby Blanket #60280
        Patricia
        Participant

          I barely know enough to be dangerous, but I think I can answer your question. You need to consult a reed/sett substitution chart. I made a screen shot from the Schacht chart on this page: http://www.schachtspindle.com/pdfs/reed-size-sett-chart.pdf

          Since your instructions call for an 8-dent reed threaded 1-1-1-2, that means the sett is 10 epi (ends per inch). See the intersection of the red circles – the blue circle shows 10 epi – in my marked-up screen shot.

          To convert that sett to a 4-dent reed, you would need to sley 2-3, I found the 10 epi sett under the 4-dent reed column (blue circle in the intersection of green circles). Follow to the left, and you see the order of sley as 2-3.

          Hope this helps – and good luck!reed substitution

          in reply to: Back to Season 1 – questions on episode 8.2 (David loom) #52078
          Patricia
          Participant

            Jacqueline, I took your clever use of Texsolv cord a step further when attaching the lease sticks (during winding on and threading).

            Instead of elastics, I used Texsolv cord and secured the loop with a Texsolv arrow peg.  I also used an arrow peg to fasten the ends to the screw eyes – no tying in either case and very quick!

            texsolv warping

            in reply to: David loom – lams/shafts uneven? #51383
            Patricia
            Participant

              Hi, Barbara. As I mentioned, my David is brand new… delivered just last month.  As such, I was the one who assembled it and, on the last page of the assembly instructions, the “knitting needle trick” was discussed and illustrated. As I ordered 200 additional heddles (I wanted 125 on each 36″ shaft), moving/adding heddles was a concern – but proved to be very simple following their suggestion.

              Once the blocking pin is in place to stabilize the cams, you need to use four twist-ties to make a secure bundle of the heddles before you remove them from a shaft!

              I happened to have a couple of ancient 14″ pairs of metal knitting needles (sizes 6 and 8), which were perfect. You insert a knitting needle through all the cords that the upper shafts bars are connected to (a few holes above the hooks) – on the side you want to add/remove the heddles. Now when you unhook an upper shaft bar at that side, its cord will stay in place.

              In addition to the suggestion by Louet, I also placed a knitting needle through all the cords connecting the lam to the lower shaft bar (roughly in the middle of each cord).  That helped to keep the lower cord from dropping underneath the treadles!

              I took a screen shot of the photo in the instructions (see below); and here’s the link to the PDF file of the current David loom assembly instructions – scroll to the last page:

              https://www.louet.com/wp-content/uploads/I_David2_V1_EN.pdf

              knitting needle trick

              in reply to: David loom – lams/shafts uneven? #51329
              Patricia
              Participant

                Thanks, Sandra.  I stand corrected….  At first, it seemed that the tie-up cords all had 17 “holes” between the hole that hooks onto the screw in the side of the treadle, and the hole used to hitch the cord to the lam.

                However, after I re-installed the blocking pin, I decided to try another tie-up.  Well… I did find that one of the tie-up cords was in the second-to-last serviceable hole at the treadle attachment screw.  And, another tie-up cord was also in the second-to-last serviceable hole near the lam attachment hitch.  I need a brighter light when I crawl under the loom, apparently!

                In the photo below, I have installed the blocking pin in the cams, and all shafts and lams are even (so clearly, the shaft cords are the correct length – a good question to ask, though, since I had unhooked each shaft initially to add 25 heddles to each.  I LOVE the knitting needle trick for that!).

                Thank you again for your helpful (and prompt) reply – much appreciated!

                blocking pin in cams

                • This reply was modified 5 years, 4 months ago by Patricia.
                in reply to: David loom – lamp/lighting ideas #50329
                Patricia
                Participant

                  Lana, that’s exactly what I ended up purchasing from Amazon, and it has worked out very well!

                  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y557YV7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                  in reply to: Blanket width in David Loom #49813
                  Patricia
                  Participant

                    Hello from the Arizona desert! While I’ve been weaving about 10 years, I’m still approaching the “intermediate” stage (as in… I know enough to be dangerous! <smile>).  I think I can answer a couple of your questions, however.

                    First, I believe Jane is referring to doubleweave as a technique to increase the weaving width of a blanket, for example.  This is where two layers are woven at once; they can be connected at either selvedge (or both, which creates a tube) such that the project will unfold to double its weaving width once off the loom.

                    For starters, Jennifer Moore is an expert in the area of doubleweave here in the US.  She did a wonderful 10-minute introduction to doubleweave in this video:

                    https://youtu.be/bFBB2s5fDg4

                    Her book is available on Amazon:

                    https://www.amazon.com/Weavers-Studio-Doubleweave-Jennifer-Moore/dp/1596681799/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr=

                    More specifically, for your project, you should consider purchasing the January/February 2002 issue of Handwoven magazine, which is devoted to doubleweave.  While print copies of back issues can be ridiculously expensive, the digital edition is available quite reasonably:

                    https://www.interweave.com/store/handwoven-january-february-2002-digital-edition

                    Jennifer Moore has a fabulous article on page 27 which is a doubleweave sampler/workshop.  I followed the project and really got to learn what doubleweave is and how it can be used to advantage.

                    On page 40 of that issue is a Harrisville Shetland doubleweave blanket project for 4 shafts on a loom with a 30″ weaving width.  After washing, the author says, there is 15% takeup/shrinkage in width and length. The 3.5 yard warp (29.25″ in reed) produces a finished blanket which is 49.5 x 76.5 inches plus fringe.  This project uses a 12-dent reed for the Harrisville Shetland, with a sett of 24 epi (2/dent).

                    In that project/article, the author speaks to what is needed to produce a smooth fold, such that the fold on the selvedge (where the two layers are connected) is not apparent down the center when the blanket is fully opened.  In addition to the author’s suggestion, another excellent weaving source, Madelyn van der Hoogt (former editor of Handwoven magazine who now runs the wonderful Weavers’ School near my summer home north of Seattle) speaks to a different doubleweave fold technique in this article:

                    https://www.interweave.com/article/weaving/doubleweave-doublewide-smooth-fold/

                    Hopefully, others can speak to your question about your yarn of choice and the proper sett (and which reed) would be most suitable for your blanket.

                    I hope all this helps your understanding of doubleweave just a bit – good luck with your project!

                    Patricia

                    in reply to: Back to Season 1 – questions on episode 8.2 (David loom) #49625
                    Patricia
                    Participant

                      Thank you so much for your prompt and helpful replies!

                      Sandra, I totally missed Jane’s comment at the 4-minute mark about the lower warp being just above the shuttle race (and clearly I can adjust the angle of the sliding beater bar at that time).

                      Jacqueline, I love your clever use of Texsolv cord to attach the lease sticks in a similar manner to Jane’s suggestion for their position during winding on the warp and subsequently threading the heddles.  Fastening with elastics to the raddle and the other end to the screw eyes looks likes a quick way to tie up the Texsolv cord each time!

                      And I too would be most interested to see how others have set up their David looms.

                      I feel like I’m back at “square one,” although I’ve had two Schacht looms over the last ten years (a 46″ standard floor loom and a 36″ Mighty Wolf – both with 8 harnesses).  For the Mighty Wolf (and with the help of a woodworking friend) I created two tools:  a reed holder for the breast beam, and a lease stick holder for the back beam.  The lease stick holder was designed to hold the lease sticks close for threading, and back for winding on (and even during weaving, if needed).  Below is a photo showing how they functioned.

                      Wolf toys

                      in reply to: Any thoughts on a FB group? #48925
                      Patricia
                      Participant

                        UPDATE:  After creating this post (my first), I was able to click on my name in the post and access my profile (with editing capability).  FWIW, while I have solved my own problem, I do think it would be helpful to have the ability to edit one’s profile before posting for the first time.

                        ————————–

                        I just joined the forum today, but seem to have no ability to create (let alone edit) a profile. Ginette indicates in her 2/17/18 post that I should be able to “edit your profile by clicking on your Account.”  There does not appear to be any option in the Account section to do this.  As Amanda posted in reply, the Account section is “store account related, not forum related.”

                        Am I missing something – where do I create/edit my forum profile?

                        Thanks in advance for the help!

                        P.S.  I did read the thread entitled “FAQs – Housekeeping, JST Forum,” but there was no information on creating/editing one’s forum profile.  This was the only thread which mentioned the forum profile.

                        • This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by Patricia.
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