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Sandra, thank you so much! That is exactly the technique I was talking about. I weave a lot of tartans and am constantly dealing with 2 picks of one color, so when Jane introduced this technique, I really sat up and noticed! It’s so very helpful. That’s why I was wondering why she didn’t do it with the super fine threads. I’m guessing that buildup just isn’t enough of an issue to worry about. Thank you so much for putting up with me!
It still isn’t making sense to me. With the 8/2 cotton, she showed this technique as an alternative that you can do with two picks of one color. Normally, she tucks the end into the same shed as she threw the pick, but for this technique, she tucked it into the next shed, so that when the end comes back with the second pick, there is overlap in the same shed and she would cut that other end off about an inch past the selvedge. After the item was washed, she’d cut it off even with the shed. How is this not the same thing?
15.28 is one example. She does it consistently throughout the sample. Just for the two pick dividers. I was expecting her to use the same technique she used with the 8/2 cotton, but maybe this thinner yarn doesn’t need it?
When Jane was dividing sections with 2 picks of a contrasting color, I noticed she didn’t do the trick where you only have one end tucked in. I was wondering why not. Is it because her weft was so fine it didn’t really matter if there were two tucked ends on top of each other?
I share Anna’s question above about camel. Also alpaca and cashmere. I’ve been thinking about trying a collapsible scarf using cashmere and tussah. The master sett chart shows that they can both be set at 20 epi. Do you think the cashmere will full enough to result in a good collapse? I also happen to have a nice supply of alpaca and I’d like to know if that would be a good choice for this technique.
Thank you, Sandra. I got to the next episode and saw that Jane explained the white threads. I shouldn’t have been so impatient!
How on earth would you estimate how much weft to buy? And if I wanted to do this in a fiber that I could throw in the washing machine, would cotton mop be a reasonable substitute?
I’m looking at this episode on the new website and don’t see the comments anywhere. I’m sure I’m doing something wrong. I’d like to make the switch right away but sure don’t want to lose the comments. I just went to the Ravelry site — hadn’t done that before — and noticed that people make comments about the various episodes there too. But I really like seeing the comments attached to the episode itself.
Sandra, I was going through the article and noticed one thing that might be an error. In the first method of figuring, you wind up with 283 grams x 924 yds. = 2614. The problem is that it’s 924 yards for every 100 grams, so you need to divide the final answer by 100. Or else convert 283 grams to 2.83 [units of 100 grams].
Thank you again, Sandra. That makes perfect sense. I’ve asked two questions this evening and you’ve responded right away. That’s worth so very, very much. It’s a gift to have such a valuable resource available.
I want to organize my stash of 8/2 cotton and I thought I’d weigh the cylinders (they really aren’t cones — what do you call them?) to see how many yards I have of each color. The problem is, I don’t have an empty center to weigh so I can subtract that. Would someone who does have one be willing to weigh it for me? Thank you!
I’m sure this is a really stupid question but I’m going to ask it anyway. Jane talked in the intro about this Megado loom being overkill for the project since it’s plainweave. This got me thinking about something. With a four shaft loom, you usually thread it 1-2-3-4 to balance the ends over all four shafts. But then you hook up one treadle to shafts 1 and 3 and another treadle to shafts 2 and 4. Right? So you haven’t really reduced your lifting load over a situation where you just thread 1-2 repeatedly. So what’s the advantage of spreading the warp over 4 shafts? Or 8 if you have an 8-shaft loom?
