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Thanks Sandra! That was exactly what I needed. I had completely forgotten we had already covered this topic. I hope all is well with you.
Can you expand on how you are pressing the fabrics after fulling? How do you preserve the collapse effect?
Again, thanks for your help. I am about half-way through this project and really enjoying the results. I’ve substituted red for the white.
Thanks a million for your help. I went back to my emails and saw the revised pattern as well. I hope to get this on my loom in the next few days!
I am just getting ready to start the undulating tea towel kit and have a question about the threading draft: It looks like the sequence is repeated (7 times) and that the “repeat” ends with a single black thread. The next repeat starts with 8 black and so now there are 9 threads in the group rather than 8. Am I reading the pattern correctly? It seems to me that the sequence should end with an 8 count of the greys/white and not include this single black thread.
You mentioned something at the very end about using an 8 harness loom for clasped wefts. I’d love to know more about getting the power from my other harnesses – as we go along. Another great episode! Thanks for the terrific instruction and inspiration.
I am trying to use your Master Sett chart to determine my starting point for some handspun merino I plan on using in my warp and weft. In order to compare it to the Harrisville Shetland you sell, I needed the ply/count. I am assuming it is 2 ply. Using your formula (solving for size rather than yds per pound), there are 1800 yds in a pd of Harrisville X 2 ply / 560 for a size of 6.5. Is that correct? I have spun 2/13 with merino so am thinking to use 18 EPI and 18 PPI. Seem OK?
Another great episode. I had to wait to watch this and it was worth the wait. I have been trying to get a sense of the Count system so that segment was particularly helpful as I spin my own fibre. Now I know what count it is. Thanks for showing all the samples – also very helpful.
You can also find the reed chart in the JST Helpline section of the website as well as many other useful bits.
Just finished watching it end-to-end as it is sooooo hard to take a break from all the great information. As a beginner, one question I have – which I assume will be addressed later – is how does one make a change on an existing warp from more epi to less epi? Do you take the warp from the reed and starting in the middle, re-sley everything, leaving the extra warp on the edges for removal (or wider fabric)?
I see that Jane is using the shoebox to manage the bobbin of silk as she is winding onto a pirn. How is she managing the bobbins (on the floor) for the other fibers she demonstrated in the ball winding section of the video?
Hi everyone! My name is Debbie. I live both in Vancouver and Washington DC and pinch myself everyday to think that I live in two such great cities. I started weaving in the 1970’s and learn through a correspondence course that was mailed to me every three month over a four year period. Then life happened and I’ve been moving my wheel and loom around with me for the past 35+ years, sadly storing them in a closet – unused. My husband recently surprised me with a beautiful Delta 16H loom which is waiting for renovations on our studio to be finished, in order to have room for set up. In the meantime, I am back at spinning and am really loving what I am producing. I can’t wait to see what it will be when I get the loom working. Jane’s online guild is perfect for me and the timing couldn’t have been better. I am learning so much and am anxious to put it into practice. I also do stained glass mosaics, cross stitch, sew, cook/bake and will wait until my retirement, later this year, to (re)start painting, fly tying, basket weaving, and travel.
