- This topic has 20 replies, 13 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 8 months ago by
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Hi Susan, on the Leclerc jack loom I had, I did that as the top of the castle was in the way. It had a piece right across above the sheds. If you’ve got a Wolf Pup, you could secure it against the top of sheds and squish them together. If you’re raddle is longer, then you might have to secure it to the side of the castle. Either way, as long as the raddle is well secured and you’re able to wind on and your threads are moving along smoothly, it’ll work.
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Just learned something about my Schacht Baby Wolf that’s didn’t know. I bought it used from someone and I was having some trouble with a few things and took Jane’s advice about learning about your loom. I noticed that the 3rd and 4th harnesses (shafts) we’re raising up higher than the 1st and 2nd ones and I wondered if something had happened in its previous life to them. I thought maybe this was causing me to not have a clean shed (that was part of what I was troubleshooting). I contacted Schacht and sent them some pictures, and not only got an email back but also a phone call from Mike (loom builder) who said it was absolutely correct that they would be different heights, because it was designed that way. An 8-shaft would also have this kind of progression. Very interesting. Not sure I understand the physics, but it’s good to know it’s intentional.
I re-watched this segment and looked at the Wold Pup Jane uses, and sure enough, you can see the difference in the height of shafts. I wonder if this is related to balancing out the tension in a jack loom. Any thoughts?
BTW, the problem with not having clean sheds was solved by advancing my warp sooner than I thought I needed to. The “sweet spot” isn’t as big on this loom as my regular Schacht floor loom. All good information.
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That difference in height accommodates the depth difference between harness 1 and harness 4. The warp threads all have to sit at the same height when the shed is open but they aren’t all sitting in a row when they are threaded…ie the thread on harness 8 is about 6” further back than the thread on harness 1. A good Jack loom accommodates the depth difference by having the harnesses rise at a slight angle so the warp threads are all even when the full shed is accomplished. Louet does this on their looms by way of how you attach your tie-up cords to the treadle. The tie-up attachment for harness 1 is not in the same place as harness 8…there is a slight angle and when you look at the harnesses at rest you can see that angle. All good learning :). All good looms 🙂 🙂 Jane
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I am very new to weaving and am finding these “meetings” so helpful as I know so little. I have a Schacht standard 8-shaft and a Baby Wolf. I am binge watching these lessons and learning so much. After watching this episode I realized that my tension must be way too tight as the warp threads do not lay down on the shuttle race when I step on a treadle. I currently have the Baby Wolf warped and am doing plain weave as practice. I loosened the tension until the warp threads were flat on the shuttle race when I have the shafts raised but the tension now is really sloppy. It just sort of flaps around. One more notch to tighten raises the threads off the shuttle race. Please help me to figure out what I’m doing wrong.
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Hi lsegolf, Your tension shouldn’t be sloppy. Can you check to see if the loom is completely opened up and the black nobs on the side of the castle are at their lowest position and tighten?
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Ginette,
I just checked and the loom is fully open and the black knobs all the way down. I have been practicing “throw, beat, change my feet, move the beater back” today and in the process things seem to have changed so that the tension is better and the threads are now down on the shuttle race. The loom has been sitting with this warp (under tight tension) on it for several weeks (months?) because I have been busy with sewing. Could that have had some effect?
I really appreciate all the help.
Linda
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I think I’ve finally got it! After throwing/beating, etc for some time I can see that if I advance the warp to just the right spot, all works perfectly. This was mentioned earlier in this forum and it just took me a little while to find that sweet spot. I have developed some awful habits in the past and I am now working hard to change them. The results are amazing. I am so excited!
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Thank you for this jack loom video! As a newbie, it felt weird having a disagreement about how a jack loom warp should look with an elderly weaver online a few minutes ago. They were trying to help someone with jack loom problems and I knew from your video that the previous owner might have ‘fiddled’ with the heddles to try to make everything nice and even. Great for counterbalance but not for jack tension! I hope I was able to help out the new owner and she seemed to understand what I was saying even if the elderly person did not. Thank you and I’m hopeful that if I can explain it to someone else then I understand it myself! Cheers.
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As a brand new weaver I got a new to me Dorset loom which is no longer produced. I wanted something small and approachable. It is esentially the same as the Wolf Pup. I’m so excited to have learn more about it.
I’ve been following along with Season 1 of the online guild and have learned so so much. Thanks to all the team for producing such great and informative content. -
I really enjoyed this segment. I have a Schacht 8 shaft table loom and I am having trouble with split shed and one of the toggles is very sloppy (shaft 7). But I am having trouble with many of the shafts not rising enough or too much relative to the other shafts. I am working on a scarf 2/2 twill. The progression is 1, 2 and 5,6; 2, 3 and 6, 7; 3, 4 and 7, 8; 1, 4 and 5, 8. I am constantly retying the cord on shaft 7.
So how do I troubleshoot this problem. I have sold the loom and don’t want to sell the headache, too. I will be delivering her to the new owner and picking up a Baby Wolf to replace it.
The other difficulty I have is the clip in the center of the shafts holding the heddles so I can’t push them all to the left and then thread using my left hand to grab the heddle and thread with my right. Threading from the center out seem really awkward, but I haven’t tried it.
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I am considering replacing the metal heddles on my Baby Wolf loom with Texsolv heddles. The Schacht website says that the Texsolv heddles are too light for a Baby Wolf. Have you had any experience with this?
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Hi Glenda,
Just checking JST website and there’s some info about the Texsolv heddles for the Wolf loom, maybe you could give the studio at quick email on Monday to get more info on it. The link says for ashford but it’s also for the Schacht Wolf looms.
Texsolv Heddles for Dorothy & Mountain table looms & Schacht Wolf looms 237mm
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I have an ancient Leclerc Artistat (4-shaft Jack loom) that has been through many owners over its life. When I received it, it was in bad repair, and I had to do a lot of work to get it going again. One of the things I did was replace the “bumpers” that help the shafts have a softer landing when coming back down. After watching this video, and seeing that the shafts should be lower, I went back to my loom and removed those bumpers. Sure, it’s a little louder, but my raceway is free and clear for my shuttle now! I’ve been struggling so much getting my shuttle to fly across, and it was all because of those bumpers raising the shafts just a wee bit. This video is worth the annual fee alone – I have NEVER seen any documentation about where the warp should lie on a Jack loom until this video, and I’ve have had a fair amount of research to figure out how to get my loom in working order again. Thank you!!
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