- This topic has 25 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 9 months ago by
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I am enjoying and learning from this series immensely!! Thank you. I purchased my loom second ( maybe third or fourth ) hand. The sticker on the castle says Nilus which I have been trying to research. It has quite a history. However I noticed that the loom in this segment also says Nilus but you called it a ‘Fanny’. Which is it? The loom in this segment is my loom exactly.
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Nilus Leclerc was the original name of the company which had ‘Nilus’ as part of the name on their stickers for their looms. You’re loom is a counter-balance Fanny if it’s the same as Jane’s. Jane’s loom is also an older loom so it has the ‘nilus’ sticker on it. Congrats on your ‘new to you’ loom!
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You certainly can! Jump ahead to the most recent lesson on Double Width cloth and in the first video, at the 25 minute mark, you’ll find Jane showing us how to do the tie-ups on a Counter Balance loom. Jane explains designing Double Weave and the differences between the tie-ups on a Jack Loom and a Counter Balance loom for Double Width in this episode.
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I have an older version of this 45 inch LeClerc Fanny counterbalance loom, and I have noticed that one of the differences in Jane’s model and mine, is that my model only has 4 treadle eye hooks on each of the 6 treadles (I noticed that there are 5 on each of Jane’s treadles.) As a consequence, I’ve always been indecisive as to exactly where to locate the tie up for either the 1st or 4th harnesses as there is only 3 distinctive spaces between the 4 eye hooks. As a consequence, I’ve decided to add one more eye hook to each treadle to clearly mark where any/all of the individually tie up cords are designed to go. Before I go drilling holes, should the fifth eye hook fall at the treadle end or in front of the first eye hook? Your suggestions would be appreciated!
PS Ironically, the older LeClerc manual states that ‘All tie up cords are of the same length’, and their illustration only shows 3 eye hooks on their treadles! Hmmmmm…….go figure!-
Hi Lorraine,
Not sure if you’d be able to add an extra eye hook. Are you treadles slanted where the hooks go? It’s been a while since I’ve had a fanny but I do remember that the best place to attached the tie-up cords is directly straight down. If you loom is working just fine and you’re getting a good shed, I wouldn’t worry about drilling a hole and adding another eye hook. Also, are all your cords the same length? I found that putting on all new treadle cords really helped getting even sheds.-
No Ginette, my treadles are not slanted where the tie ups go but I have reconsidered about adding another eye hook to each treadle. I have fiddled with the positioning of my cords (which helped me get a better shed), and have found some to have stretched a bit. My shed seems “adequate”, but I think I could get better results with new. Thanks for your input…..now onto that broken floating selvage…lol!
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Thank you so much for this video. I have just purchased an old Hammett 4 shaft, 4 treadle loom counter balance loom with a 45 inch weaving area. Is there a source that you know of for a manual? I have looked online but have only seen pictures of a page here and there. Also the cords are all clothes line type material. Would the newer type tie-ups work with an older loom? I am a newbie so I have lots of questions!! Thank you!
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Hi Katherine, I have never heard of this type of loom. I would recommend putting a small warp on her and see how she works. No point changing things if everything is working well. Once you’ve taken her for a test drive you’ll know what if anything needs to be changed. Happy weaving, Jane
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I just purchased a second-hand Mira LeClerc loom. It was originally purchased in 1980 and is in beautiful shape.
I have a question about the reed. You mentioned the warp should sit at the halfway point on the reed — if not, adjust the height of the beater bar with the plates at the bottom of each side.
My warp sits about 1/3 of the way up the reed. I tried adjusting the height, but it is already at the lowest position. So I am not able to get it sitting at the half point of the reed. I’m finding if I beat while shed is open, it is wearing on the warp threads because they are dragging on the bottom of the reed. As a result, they are starting to shred.
I’m just wondering if there is another way to adjust it. Also, I did notice the reed isn’t sitting all the way in the bottom dip of the beater bar. Am I supposed to slide it into position from the side? I just set it on the bar and placed the top bar on and tightened the wing nuts.
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Becky, have you adjusted the height of your shafts, as Jane suggests in the video? If you can’t get your reed any lower, then maybe you can adjust your top roller which would raise your shafts. That would be my first step. The other thing that is running through my mind is that maybe someone has replaced the cords that are on all the rollers and they aren’t quite the right length. As Jane suggests – you could ask Leclerc Looms what the optimum height of your shafts is and how long the cords should be to see if yours are the correct length. They should replacement parts, should you need them.
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I am so happy that my cousin, who is also a weaver, suggested I sign up for your videos. What a wealth of information you are. 10 years ago I purchased a counterbalance loom – called a Lane, built by a company called Purrlington Looms. It was supposedly built in 1898, which I can believe because it is built with a lot of wood pegs vs screws and has seen many years of use before I bought it. It is just the right size for me – with a 32” weaving width. I use it primarily for weaving towels and rugs, all plain weave. Now that I know I should tie up only one harness per treadle at a time I will try some twills. My husband has built me a raddle that (thanks to you) I now know I can attach to the top of my harnesses, but it has a sectional back beam. Any tips?
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Some Fanny technicalities……this is a rescue loom from a garage with minor water damage on the shafts but otherwise great condition… in using this and reviewing my weaving I’ve noticed some minor variations that Leclerc doesn’t comment on….I’ve attached pics to hopefully help in clarifying my questions
1) my treadle cords can vary by as much as 1/2 inch… do I need new ones?
2) does it matter how the counter balance cords travel on the lower bar.. Leclerc is quite specific about the upper cords but vague about the lower set
3) my shafts are a bit “ irregular” see pic.. does this matter?
4) does it matter where the hooks for the heddle frame are in the sequence of threading? Since my frames are irregular so are the hooks
many thanks
Terry
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Hi Terry,
I’m just seeing your comment in the ‘pending approval’ folder! This usually happens when members try and post more than 3 pictures in one post, haven’t been able to increase it.
Yes, if you can, replace the treadles cords, it’ll make a huge difference with new ones and all your shafts will align when you shed is open. This will fix #3 question 😉
Hooks in the middle of the shafts, I used to unhook them, thread the loom, rehook. My fanny never had then all aligned so you’ll be fine.
Before I started weaving on the Fanny, I aligned those top rollers evenly and aligned with the little marker on the inside of the castle sides.
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