- This topic has 16 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 6 months ago by
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Hello
I just completed the TAW gamp and it does not look like Jane’s. I believe my threading, colours, and tie up are correct so I am thinking that maybe I fulled it too much and the patterns got too squished. What do you think?
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Hi Kathy,
If your threading, colours & treadling were correct, it very well could be that it was fulled a tad too much. Harrisville Shetland doesn’t take too much fulling. If you under full it, it can always be full again but we can’t under over fulling unfortunately.
Have you woven the whole warp yet or just the TAW one? If you still have the others to do, you can compare it on the loom with Jane’s samples on the video and see if they are the same or post a picture here so we can have a look as well and help you out.
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Thank you for the reply. No, I have not done the others yet. I am going to do this one over again and see how it looks with less fulling. I used Brown Sheep fingering for yarn. As far as I can tell, it seems pretty comparable to Harrisville.
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Hi Kathy,
The Harrisville Shetland is 1,800 yards per pound. Just googling the Brown Sheep fingering yarn and it’s 2,800 yards per pound? Not sure if I found the correct one online as I don’t know this yarn but it shows as a 3 ply and looks more tightly spun than the Harrisville. What did you sett it at?
Do you have any Harrisville on hand to compare it with? You may need to do this sample and then full it just a tad, dry it and see how it turns out.
Keep us posted 🙂
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Hi again
I substituted the Brown Sheep for Harrisville thinking it was same because it does look the same; I did not realize the grist was so different. Therefore, thinking perhaps this was my problem, I changed the sett from 10 to 12 and followed your advice re fulling less. Drat! The resulting sample still doesn’t look like Jane’s. Grrr! What could possibly be wrong?
I decided to carry on regardless…later that day I was showing an interested person how the loom works. As I demonstrated how each treadle is tied to different shafts, lo and behold, I discovered I had tied the wrong shafts to one of the treadles! This was the real source of my woes! Now the sample is looking like it should.
Lesson learned: sure is easy to screw up the simplest of weaving procedures. LOL
Figured I should update you on this. Really appreciated your quick response and help!
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I feel ready to do the PW colour and weave gamp, in 2/8 cotton.. is there any reason not to re-sley and do it in twill ( adding FS of course!)
the twill would not be “neat” in each square and would cross over into borders but otherwise I don’t see any reason not to try it.
Is there some unknown folly lurking there?
thanks Terry
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I need help. I wound the warp and once it was spaced in the raddle I saw that the section DDDD/LLLL is double width. (I wound 64 threads instead of 32). Anyway, it looks okay BUT I want to remove the section of extra threads. How do I do this?
1) Re-chain it and put it back on the warping mill? That will be horrendous.
2) Remove the section (32 threads), secure it/deal with it somehow while I wind the rest of the warp as per the usual.
I haven’t done this before and taking out one inch to change the colour is different than 4 inches. But it seems a good time in the process and a learning point.
Please give instructions / and or options. Much appreciated.
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Hi Caroline – this is something that you’ll never do again so your have added to your experience “database” by doing it this time. Soooo – not really a loss 😉
#1 – Won’t work, it would be a nightmare and almost impossible to recover from using this option.
#2 – Is the way I would go – re-spreading my warp in the raddle before winding on.
#3 – Just weave it the way you have wound your warp and call it your own personal “design element”.
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Hi Sandra,
Thank you. In doing #2 I understand about the re-sleying the warp in the raddle but what do I do with the section I want to remove? Do I take it off the back beam before I start? Do I leave it on the back beam and chain it? Cut it off and chain it? It is a lot of yarn and I’ll use it in the samples.
Thank you for your prompt reply.
Caroline
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I’d probably slip it out of the lease sticks, making absolutely sure I didn’t loose the cross when I took it out and put the cross back. Then I’d chain it and keep chaining it as I wound the warp on so that it stays in order while it’s being separated from the main warp. Getting it in useable balls of light and dark to use as weft will take a lot of time and patience. Whereas leaving it where it is will only make your sample about 3” wider in your reed and less than that fulled.
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Well, I am back on track. 🙂 My photo ( not very focussed) shows the beginning of the TAW sample and the cones on top have all the extra warp threads back on the cones. It took ages to unwind the warp from the mill back onto the cones (8 yards/cone) but I have lots of time. We had a snowstorm so not much was happening outside. I am thrilled with how it looks so far.
I haven’t woven with 100% wool for a long time and was curious how the yarn is so sticky. The smell of the wool on my hands was special too. The winding on was slower because of keeping the warp threads straight.
I also really like being able to see the pattern so easily because 10 epi allows all the structure to show.
I will probably weave the samples then take them off the loom and wash etc. to see how they look. Then make decisions about the rest of the warp.Again, thank you Sandra for all your help.
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