Thoughts on 4.4.2 – Point Twill At The Loom

[Ginette]

Let us know your thoughts on 4.4.2 – Point Twill At The Loom

[ccrawford20]

Thanks Jane, You explained everything so perfectly.  I was able to really wrap my head around it.

[Penny]

I have really enjoyed watching these videos. Jane explains things so well. Unfortunately I cannot weave the gamp as I only have my 40cm Jane table loom available. So I have used 2/8 cotton and have amended the threading sections  so that I was able to fit the warp on the loom. I have had to omit the largest threading, but I can always do another one.

I have two problems and hope you can help. I tried to amend the lifts to compensate for the fact that mine is a rising shed and Jane is using a sinking shed loom. So my sequence is 34, 14, 12, 23, 12,14; however I do not appear to be getting the correct diamond pattern in the smallest threading. As for the basket weave dividers, these are threaded 33,11,33 as in the instructions, but what shafts do I use when weaving the dividers?

Thanks Penny

[Sandra]

Just a thought, Penny – since you have toggles, not treadles on your Jane, have you tried toggling the draft the way Jane has written it?  That way your expected result might be on the top, not the underside of your cloth.

[sweetbayfiber]

This question has come up over the years and the answers I’ve gotten have contradicted each other constantly. Maybe you can clarify it for me!  Are the terms Rose-path and Rose Fashion interchangeable or do they have different meanings?

[Sandra]

I asked Jane to weight in on your question, here is her answer………

They are different.  Rosepath is a threading…rose fashion is a treading.  Rosepath is when you thread the point twill and turn on the 5th thread and then reverse.  1,2,3,4,1,4,3,2,….and Rose fashion is when you treadle the opposite direction of tromp as writ.  So if the twill was threaded 1,2,3,4…Tromp as writ would mean you treadle the sequence 1,2,3,4…but rose fashion you treadle 4,3,2,1…it changes from an X shaped twill to a diamond 🙂

So there you go or at least that is what I have always believed.

[sweetbayfiber]

Thank you so much for clarifying the difference. I’ve been weaving for over 20 years and have attended numerous classes, workshops and schools but every time I get Online to go to ‘school’ with you I learn something new to me!  I am grateful for the opportunity to do your online guild.

[Penny]

Hi Jane

I have really enjoyed weaving this gamp, even though I have had to amend the threading to get it on my little Jane loom! Your diagrams have really helped me understand the way the patterns are created and have introduced me to an entirely new way of thinking. Every time I think I’ve run out of ideas, I think of another combination I haven’t tried and I am dreading getting to the end of my warp! As someone who has relied on pattern books, magazines and the internet, I now have my very own “pattern book” that I can use in my projects and they are entirely my own creation! Thank you so much for this truly wonderful lesson. Penny

[Jane]

That made my day Penny 🙂

[camero1949]

How do I change the warp numbers to fit my 70 cm David?

[Sandra]

Jane has suggested that you do it with two warps.  You could do the 2 on the left side separately, which would give you lots of room for each warp.  Or, if you like the look of 4 of them and there are 2 that don’t interest you as much, you could adapt your warp and just weave the ones that appeal to you most.  Or – you wouldn’t have as big a sample, but you certainly have room to weave it with 8/2 cotton at 22 or 24 epi and ppi.

[Susan Ott]

When I began Jane’s lessons I threaded my shuttle the way she did and used it with the thread exiting the shuttle on the far side.   Now I see that she is using the thread coming out on the side nearest her.  What are the reasons for this change?  Or did I misinterpret the earlier lesson?

[Sandra]

It doesn’t really matter, but she normally holds it so the thread feeds towards the fell.

[Anonymous]

Hello Jane,
Any chance of an 8 shaft draft for the twill gamp? I really want to be able to have that basket weave stripe with 8 shaft twill.
Sylvia

[Sandra]

Hi Sylvia, the focus is on 4 shaft looms and Jane and the studio are currently busy creating and recording the rest of this seasons’ videos in a COVID world.  The next episode covers designing your own cloth, and I think will give you some ideas on how to design twills.

[Brenda Reimer]

Is this draft for a rising or sinking shed loom? I never remember and can’t tell for certain which loom Jane is using. I don’t want to go back through the whole video to find the answer. Thanks. Loving this lesson!

[Sandra]

Hi Brenda,  this is the answer that Jane has given to a similar question.  Hope it helps.

I’m sorry this is confusing…..it really doesn’t matter how you tie it up….you will get exactly the same thing….just on the other side. With plain weave and the 2/2 twill it won’t matter one bit….it will be the same….with the basket weave and twill it will be the same….same same same. With the turned twill is just reverses the blocks. The best thing is to put it on your loom and tie it up for sinking or rising shed and it will all work out.

Where the difference really matters is when you are weaving more complex structures like overshot, or crackle or summer and winter, even laces, in structures where one side of the cloth will look completely different than the other side…… and if you don’t understand the weave structure and you are looking at a picture and your weaving doesn’t look the same in the least…then look underneath the loom and voila….your pattern is there. You have two options at that point….keep going or change the tie-up by reversing it….all your empty tie-boxes become full with numbers and all your full tie-up boxes become empty and it will bring the pattern you are expecting to see to the other side.

(I know that the turned twill has two different sides but you will still get both of them no matter how you tie it up….your right side treadles make one surface and your left side treadles make the other surface…so you could just reverse those).

[Carol]

did you discuss the tie-up for this large twill gamp?  Did I miss it?

 

[Sandra]

The tie-up is at the top of page 2 (when you flip it to landscape) of the episode handout page and duplicated on page 11 of the Twills on Four hand-out we were given at the beginning of this adventure.

[bzbbell]

I would like to understand something that Jane did when she ran out of yarn with just one pick left to complete a section. She pulled the tail of the thread that was finishing to the front of the cloth and when she started the new bobbin, she pulled the thread to the very beginning of the cloth, not leaving a tail. Can you explain?

Thanks.

[Ruth Anne]

Was there a length that you suggested for this gamp? I did a ‘guesstimate’ for 3 pieces, and put on 7 yards.  As I was winding, I was nervous that I would run out of the nile green even though I had ordered 2 cones.  Pretty sure that any longer and I would have run out.  This is the widest warp I have ever woven…any hints?  Ruth Anne

[Sandra]

Hi Ruth Anne, Jane gives the length of the warp length needed for the samples as well as the number of 8/4 cotton cones plus the colours she used on the first page of  the Point Twill sheet.  Were you able to download the PDF?

[Ruth Anne]

Thanks, I was using the draft, noted as page 11.  Have now downloaded the pdf for this specific episode.  Any hints on the width?  And for a baby blanket, it is best to fringe or hem? I noticed that on one of the show and tell samples it was hemmed.

[Sandra]

The information about width, size of samples, etc. is also on the first page of the episode PDF.  Sometimes items that will often be washed, will likely last longer if they are hemmed.  Hope this helps.

[Patricia]

Hi I have fulled my first sample and I notice that sometimes the weft goes over 3 warp threads and sometimes under 3 warp threads. This does not look right in the pattern. I have checked my threading, all ok. Am weaving to check my warp sequences and they are also ok but this is happening again. It happens when treadle 1follows treadle 2.  So some patterns of the six patterns across are ok but others not. Any ideas what I am doing wrong? Patricia

 

[Sandra]

Have you checked your tie-ups, Patricia?  It sounds like you might have a 3/1-1/3 tie-up that you are using.

[Sheila]

I just finished my TAW gamp and am so excited!! It’s so amazing to watch the patterns emerge. Tomorrow I start playing with different ideas.  Thank you!

[Ginny]

Could we talk about treading a twill?  I use my left foot for treadles 1 & 2 and right foot for treadles 3 & 4. I am unable to get a rhythm in a twill when treadle a 1-2-1 sequence for example, as I am using only my left foot for all three so it is slow.   Any suggestions?

[Ettabb]

I usually tie up my treadles so I alternate feet while treadling. So treadle 1 right foot, treadle 2 left foot, treadle 3 right, treadle 4 left. I find it helps with good rhythm. It isn’t helpful with every treadling sequence but often it is.

[Sue Brady]

Is this loom a Spring 90 or 110?

[Sandra]

The 110, Susan.

[Sue Brady]

Thanks!

[Jocelyne Best]

I am working on a 36” Leclerc Fanny. The Point Twill Gamp 4.4 calls for a width of 34” inches at the reed. I can only fit 27 inches of warp on my raddle (loom ropes in the way) The raddle is secured the Jane way with clamps. I distributed the warp as best I could. Do I need to concern myself with a smaller width in the raddle 27” vs reed 34”? Thanks for your help on this.

[Ginette]

Hi Jocelyne

I think you’ll be ok. When you thread the reed, your warp will be going out a bit on each side compared to the width when you wound it on the loom. I’ve changed the width before, make it wider after it had been wound on and I was ok. Also, in one of the episodes in Season 2 Jane opens up the sett from the original warp and weaving was just fine.

Do let us know how it works out!

[Author]

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