- This topic has 46 replies, 26 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 6 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Just to show that you can get this warp on a 40cm Jane loom at 15EPI with 4/8 cotton yarn! Of course I could have made life easier for myself by using a finer yarn but where’s the fun in that! So thank you Jane for explaining in an earlier lesson that your warp can be a bit narrower on the back beam without affecting the tension! I love this course as I am learning so much fundamental stuff that I thought I already knew!
-
That was so funny when she said that! I was like “well, obviously” but then a few moments later as it sunk in what it really MEAns, I was like, “Oooooh, four and one are Next To Each Other! As in the pattern keeps going!” I mean it really is still pretty obvious, but for some reason just her saying it so emphatically like that, made it mean so much more that my brain understanding design!
-
-
-
Hello all! Lots to learn here and loving it all! If warp predominant is done in a forward & reverse threading gamp, is it necessary to do separate weft predominant since it is on the back side of the warp? However, if there is more than treadle change here, it might be important to process those two gamps. I’d like to use as much warp as possible for weft pred. experimentation on the same warp & would change treadles then. Trusting this makes sense.
-
-
I’m just a fellow guild member here, not anyone official, but I think she said it was good to do both separately (a warp pred one and a weft ores one) in the interest of really understanding it all. But it’s your warp. I say do what makes you happy. I had great intentions of actually doing the gamp but decided to make a simpler set of twill towels just using straight and point draws.
-
If one is doing a varied treadling ie. 3,4,1,2,1,4,3. Do I return to the 3,4 etc. So I have 2 (_3 picks )_or do I put another 1,2,1, in between? The start & finish in the treadling is the same shaft so if the draft was longer I would know. Thank you. Jeanne
-
-
-
-
-
Started threading this draft and I have a problem I have never encountered. Warped in the sequence (starting with 41 bleached) which means that is the first sequence in my cross. When I start threading, it is the last, so I have had to work backwards in the draft (starting with 33 threads/#6). Guess in my 25 years of weaving I have never used an asymmetrical draft! I don’t think that I have turned it upside down, put threads in my raddle any differently…what happened? So now I will have to weave TAW backwards and from the left to right? HELP! Ruth Anne
-
Ruth Ann, i did the same thing, don’t know how either! Your sections are the only thing out of order, no worries :j. I threaded as it should have been within each section, starting with straight twill on the far left and the point twill next, etc, and tied up and treadled TAW just fine 🙂
always something new to learn!!!
happy weaving,
Jacqui
-
-
Sorry I haven’t gotten back to the group about the final project on the last small gamp threading. As you probably noticed, I used 3 colors. The gray, a light blue, and the red in the weft. The treadling is the same as Jane’s except the blue is tied up as 2/2 twill and the gray is 3/1 – 1/3 twill. This means that each time there is a weft color change, the tie up is changed. So if you look closely, adjacent blue and gray are treadled the same but the tie up i different. I wanted a clear visualization of how treadling and tie up changed the fabric. Lots of work.
-
-
Working on the small threadings gamp, trying to use 4/8 cotton that I have. But I don’t believe the contrast is strong enough. Can I substitute 2 strands of 2/8 for the 1 strand of 4/8. What problems could I encounter. I have a shuttle that can feed out 2 bobbins at a time if that would work
Would a person ever wind 2 threads of 2/8 at the same time on a bobbin??
Thanks for the advice
-
If you have a double bobbin shuttle, I’d go with that. It’s hard to hold even tension both going on and off the bobbin when you wind two threads on one bobbin. Other than that, you’ll be fine weaving with 2 x 8/2. I’d slow down though to make sure everything is being evenly spaced across the gamp. It’s a beautiful gamp and you want to be able to refer to it for years.
-
-
I, too, am confused about the change of treadling tie -up. Is this a change to 3/1 and/or 1/3?? I am using a 4 shaft counter-balance loom and have never been able to get a decent shed with one against three. Any insight greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
-
https://janestaffordtextiles.com/forums/topic/counterbalance-loom-3-shafts-on-1-treadle/
Does this help, Sheila? Let me know.
-
This reply was modified 3 years, 5 months ago by
-
This reply was modified 3 years, 5 months ago by
-
This reply was modified 3 years, 5 months ago by
-
-
-
-
-
I finished my samples. These were sett at 12epi. I love the 2/2 balanced weave version (bottom one on the stack) – once washed it became so soft.
I decided to modify the remaining warp by taking out the colored zinger threads. For the weft am using a gray wool (I think – garage sale purchase). Playing with a more free-form version that will become a scarf. We’ll see what happens when I take it off the loom and wash it. Same sett at 12epi which is quite open.
-
I shared this in the Ravelry group, but thought I’d share it here, too. After weaving three of the gamps (2/2, 1/3-3/1 and the 3rd suggested sequence-upcoming large threading gamp), I had warp left over. Enough to weave 2 panels and sew them together for a lap blanket. I sewed the center seam with the red to mimic the borders between the gamp sections. Thanks Jane for such a user-friendly gamp. Oh, and this is Harrisville Shetland for the weft re-sleyed at 12 EPI.
-
Hello. I am going to weave this gamp with 8/2 cotton, as I have mountains of it. I have everything organized, I think, except that I see that I have a lot more of the darker colour that I’m going to use than the lighter one, so I’d like to use the darker colour for the warp and the lighter one for the weft (ie the reverse of how Jane wove the gamp. Can you explain how that will affect the look of the cloth? Many thanks.
-
-
-
-
I wasn’t sure that I was going to make all of the games and experiments, but I am sure glad that I did.I have been weaving for a while, and I can follow most drafts that I find, and have started designing some of my own. However, I don’t always understand what I am doing and have hurdles and unanswered questions, so actually doing these exercises helped me understand. My biggest challenge was that I was stash busting and chose yarns that I didn’t want to use for anything else. The warp was a 5/2 ballet pink and the dividing weft was a 6/2 blue. The gamp were won en with a magenta weft. It was okay and the contrast was good. The real challenge came when I had to choose colors for the placemats that I made at the end of the warp. I am pleased, but my advice to anyone starting this project is to choose colors you love and it will make it much more pleasant. I tried to upload a photo unsuccessfully. I will try instagram.
-
-
HI- I designed my placemats based on the twill gamp – unfortunately, my math skills are in the toilet – and I ended up with 195 warp ends of 8/4 cotton which ends up being 13″ on the loom if I use the sett of 15 EPI. One thought is to go down to a sett of 14. Any other ideas? Oh- and I’ve already threaded the heddles and am about to sley the reed. Thanks Joan
-
Hi Joan, I don’t think taking them down to 14 epi is going to make much of a difference. Your width in the reed will still be narrow And your placemats even narrower after you have finished them. However, a 12” placemat is narrow, but not too narrow. I just measured some in my “linen” drawer and they range from 12” and up. Just relax and go for it!
-
-
-
-
I did the first 3 samples at 15 epi and then switched to 12 eip for the second 4 samples. I haven’t woven with 8/4 cotton before so was interested to see how it felt. I have a better understanding of the twill patterns but I still think in number sequences. I do see mistakes when they are made.
I used 3 colours across the warp as I was using up 8/4 cotton I had. I tried a couple of different colour combinations as well. I liked the Wall of Troy and broken twill at 15 epi and preferred the Undulating Threading and Diamonds as Frame at 12 epi. The inverse of threadings was okay.
We are using a couple as hand towels in the bathroom.
at 15 epi (above) at 12 epi (below)
-
-
Hello… I am fairly new and have come across this lesson. Please tell me if I am treadling correctly. So, for the first row of blocks, I treadle with the threading of #1. Second row of blocks, I treadle to the tune of #2 ??
-
You read the threading from right to left and just treadle the numbers as you read them. In the first section of the gamp you treadle 1, 2, 3, 4 – 10 times, then treadle the divider. The second one you treadle 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, 2 – 5 times and add a final 1 to finish the sequence, then treadle the divider. And so on and so on. 😀. Hope this makes sense.
-
-
Hi, I’m confused. When I did the drawdown for straight twill with threading 1,2,3,4 and treadling as TAW 1,2,3,4 the twill diagonal goes to the left. When I’m at the loom and weave TAW the twill diagonal goes to the right, as in Jane’s video, as well. Why is this?
Thanks!
-
-
- The forum ‘Season 4 – Twills on Four Weaving Discussion’ is closed to new topics and replies.
