- This topic has 30 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 9 months ago by
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Hello,
Please explain what the yarn numbers mean. 2/8 cotton, 4/8 cotton, 220 or 230 silk, etc.
Thank you.-
Hi Jeanine,
In Episode 7 of Season 1, lesson 7.2 – Understanding the Count System, Jane goes through explaining the yarn numbers, you might want to jump and watch this one.Also on the Knowledge Base, Jane explains what the numbers mean. Here’s the link
Could you tell me the difference between 8/2, 8/4, and 8/8 cotton?
Hope that helps 🙂
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Hi Danielle, Jane’s blankets are 45″ wide in the reed so you would need to double this for a double wide blanket. Hope this helps to do your calculations with the yarns you have.
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I am curious…
Is there a “formula” for sett when the warp and the weft are different sizes? I have a sock weight wool warp and then homespun silk and merino which I would like to use for the weft. They are much thicker and cozier than the sock weight warp. I was hoping to do a basic weave shawl.-
Sorry, there isn’t a formula – especially when you bring handspun into the mix. The best way to check the sett for unique yarns like yours, is to use the ruler wrap that Jane demonstrates in the above video. Make the warp a bit longer and try different setts with your handspun weft, to get something you are happy with after your samples are washed. Have fun!
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When you say you are sampling, do you weave the structure you want, cut it off the loom, finish it and the re thread/sly and continue weaving?
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Hi Rosanna,
If you’re trying to find the right sett for the fabric you’re wanting, it would be best to weave one sample, cut it off the loom and wash it to see how it turns out. Then you can re thread the reed to try another sett. If you plan on keeping the same sett throughout the samples and play with weft yarns instead, you can weave your samples on the loom until the end. I’m actually just putting on a warp to determine the best sett where my warp has an extra yard and a half to sample first with, enough for 3 samples if needed so I’ll be cutting/resleying a few times. I’m hoping to nail it on the first sample though and weave the rest for the 2 scarves that I plan on finishing with.
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When you were showing the 30/2 silk and cashmere 2nd scarf (woven on the same warp as the 30/2 all silk scarf at 30 epi/30 epi) you said you went down to 27 epi on your 10 dent reed. So, you needed to resley the reed from 3 ends per dent to 2-3-3. Did you just pull out 1 thread every 3rd dent? What would you do with the pulled out threads? Cut them out? Leave them hang off the back?
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I am not completely sure how to ask this, but I will try to make sense.
I have cashmere/silk blend yarn cobweb weight. Actually, it is thread weight at 16 yards per gram, but it lists as cobweb.
Anyways, I want to do an advancing twill with long sequence repeat treadling with it. I want to control the bloom and take advantage of the silk nature of the yarn. I ‘thought’ 45 sett would work but now I am worried and thinking that something closer to 36 might be better. I don’t want bulletproof cloth but I don’t want the cloth to ‘melt’ either. There is no chart that I can find sett info on for this yarn. It knits Orenburg lace on size 2/0 (1.75mm) or 3/0 (1.5mm) needles, if that helps.
Thoughts?
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Have you watched Jane’s lesson on wrapping your yarn around a ruler to get the sett for your special yarn? Often that is the only way you can get an idea of the sett when planning a project with a knitting yarn. If it’s normally knitted on needles that small, you need to do the ruler wrap. You should also make your warp is long enough to weave a sample and finish it, so you can test your sett before you start weaving your project.
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Great video. Is it so, that technically, one should start the sett count over at every inch if it is not an even distribution of the numbers? For instance 2,3,3, for 27 ends per inch would end with 2,3,3,2,1 for an exact inch. Do you sley the next sett by starting over after the 1 with 2,3,3 again, or just continue at 2,3,3 after the last 3? Hope that makes sense.
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Good morning, Cynthia. You sley your reed – with your example – 2-3-3 over and over again until you run out of warp ends to sley. It doesn’t matter whether you have 2 or 3 threads in your last dent – or even 1, the important thing is to sley 2-3-3 across your 10 dent reed. If you were sleying an 8 dent reed – you would be sleying 3-3-4 to get your 27 epi. All you are doing is spreading your warp as evenly as possible across your loom to get your sett to be as close as you can to 27 ends per inch in your cloth.
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My question is regarding kitchen towels. I have woven towels with 4/8 cotton at 10 EPI. The towels are great, but not absorbent. Would increasing the sett to 12 help significantly?
Thanks-
Have you checked Jane’s Master Sett Chart, Maxine? You haven’t said what your structure is – remember that makes a difference with your choice of sett.
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I am a brand new weaver. When you do sampling, do you do it on a seperate loom, possibly a table loom or do you do it as part of your project by allowing additional warp?? If using project warp, do you cut it off and wet finish immediately to see how it finishes??
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Welcome aboard, Elizabeth! You’ll find – when you get into Season 2 – that Jane suggests a warp length with each sample she has planned for us to weave. They are always longer than the sample she would like us to weave to have in our sample library that we add to as we weave our way through the seasons. She usually suggests ideas of how you can practice your new skill as you weave through the warp. Also, as time goes on, you will find your warp too short for the ideas popping into your brain! You certainly can cut off your sample and finish it. Then you have it beside you as you weave off that warp. You’ll soon learn that Jane never says “this is the way you have to do it” – she says “there is no right way or wrong way, just whatever works for you.”
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