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Hi Jane, I have a few questions to ask you. At one point, you mentioned that you wove the sample on a counter balance loom. Is the tie-up on the pdf for a counter balance loom or a jack loom? (I have just acquired a counter balance loom after weaving primarily on a jack loom) Will the tie-up be the same on both types of looms?
How do you accommodate a loom with 6 treadles instead of 8 to weave the sample? Is it as simple as changing the tie-up of the supplementary warp?
Thank you for helping me to be a much better and more efficient weaver!-
Hi Jane,
At the following mark in the episode 3.8.1, Jane talks about counterbalance looms tie-up (btw, the updated Index is up which includes this episode)
-tie-up, 3.8.1, 30:38
-counterbalance looms, 3.8.1, 39:51
The pattern is for a rising shed loom so yes, it’s a for jack loom. You would just tie up the empty boxes on the tie-up instead of those that are marked.
For only having 6 treadles, you could pick the Supps Up and Down and Plain Weave treadles and weave for a bit and then you would need to change the treadle tie up to use the As and Bs treadles.
Hope this helps!
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I have not been able to get a clean shed. The supplemental threads are twisted around the basic warp threads and held down in the middle of the shed. I am using 8/2 cotton for the lesson at 16 epi for the center and 18 epi for the fuchsia frame in a 12 dent reed. The center area is slayed 1-1-2 etc, then the two supplemental threads are inserted in the last two slots over the standard warp threads as follows:
S S
2-1-1-2-1-1-2-1-1-2-1-1
I’ve tried everything I can think of – rethreading, resleying re-everything, and I’m stumped. -
Next day: I’ve been playing the video over and over, and I hear Jane saying at 5:30 -ish in the video,
“I put them in their own individual heddle” and then “If they’re in their own heddle then nothing ever gets
twisty on me.”
“Heddle” is singular in both statements. Are each two supplemental threads supposed to be threaded through the SAME heddle and then when sleying from there into the two dents that precede them??? -
Nope, the last brainwave is wrong. Still have a supplementary twisted around a cayenne thread in the middle of the shed.
What am I missing?-
Hi Maureen, silly question here but can you check to make sure that supp thread is in the correct heddle? Also, is it just one thread doing this? If it is, is there anything at the back of the loom refraining the thread from moving up and down? I sometimes have a bobbin on top of my castle and the thread hanging, twisting threads in the back.
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It was just careless sleying that caused twists around the supp threads. What made it hard to figure out, for me, is that every one of the supp threads was caught and down in the middle of the shed, so it seemed like I must have threaded the supps wrong. I ended up putting the first supp of each pair in with the threads of the previous dent and the second supp in with the threads of the next dent. Not sure if that,s correct.
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Diane again,
I was actually about 20 minutes into the video when Jane was going back and forth between stars and squares. I think I know realize there are 2 pics for each set of stars and squares. Hope that’s correct?
Thanks for your patience.
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I’m looking at the pdf for this sample. #1 says “Supps Down” and I don’t know what that means.
#2 says “1” down, 1″ pw, 1″ down”.
#3 says “1” down, 1″ pw, 1″ down”.
And so forth – does “down” mean the treadles 1 and 2 marked “down”?
Sorry the video seems to say something different but my brain is iffy sometimes.
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Hi- Do you thread the 2 supplementary threads in the reed by themselves or do they share a reed with the 16/2 threads? Also, I have not been able to print the colored pages which show the various weaving techniques- I have not had any difficulty printing any other of your PDF’s
Thanks, Joan
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Further to Maureen’s question about sleying the supplementary warps I have come to the conclusion that one supplementary thread has to be moved along So it can be included in with the seventh pair. If left where they are they would have to be included with the 8th pair and the following first pair To avoid crossed threads. Does this sound correct
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In starting to weave the supplementary weft lesson I am having the same problem as several people in the previous messages. Supplementary threads only give me a clear shed when I move them to dent 8 of one section and dent 1 of the next repeat. As designed I cant keep both supp threads rising or falling in a clear shed – for instance one thread in heddle 3 behaves properly but the second thread in its own heddle 3 catches on the ground thread from the adjacent dent and thus every second supp thread is caught halfway in the shed. Dont know why it doesnt happen at dent 8 and 1 when repositioned. Advice?
Thanks!
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This problem has been asked several times and I have never seen an answer. When sleying I put one supplemental thread in the same dent as 2 of the ground warp threads, just as the directions say. However, when weaving, one of the 2 ground warp threads does not get woven into the fabric and it is looks like its own a supplemental thread.
Help!
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I found I had to fiddle with the order I threaded them. Two ground threads, go over, pickup the supp and thread, then next ground threads. I originally threaded two ground, two ground, then supps, and had unwoven grounds, and shed trouble. I rethreaded at least three times, but eventually it worked beautifully.
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I have been doing this exercise on my Jane table loom. 130 ends on shaft one and the same on shaft two. Supplementaries on three and four. The two shafts at the front are really struggling. Toggle hard to move the top piece of shaft wood is actually bowing and the cord which runs across the top is all loopy and actually falls off the spindle thing at the end. So I decided to take the warp off and re-assemble the loom as I thought something had come adrift. BUT when the warp was off the shafts were all perfect, lined up and balanced. Did I have too many threads on one and two?
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In the end it was the tightness of warp. So no need in fact to remove the warp! Anyway all back on and the shafts are happy with less tension on the warp. Now to avoid the shuttle going on the floor I have attached a shuttle race to the beater using one of the lee sticks. All working well. Thanks for you support and all the fantastic episodes. Getting me through lockdown😀
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When Jane was dividing sections with 2 picks of a contrasting color, I noticed she didn’t do the trick where you only have one end tucked in. I was wondering why not. Is it because her weft was so fine it didn’t really matter if there were two tucked ends on top of each other?
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15.28 is one example. She does it consistently throughout the sample. Just for the two pick dividers. I was expecting her to use the same technique she used with the 8/2 cotton, but maybe this thinner yarn doesn’t need it?
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She was doing 2 picks of the same colour. So, she started the 1st pick on the right side and tucked it in, threw her pick, changed shed and threw another pick and tucked that in as well. There is nothing else you can do and they were both secured. When you only have the two picks, there isn’t going to be a build up on one side of the warp, which is what she is aiming to avoid by starting and finishing on opposite side, if possible. Make sense???
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It still isn’t making sense to me. With the 8/2 cotton, she showed this technique as an alternative that you can do with two picks of one color. Normally, she tucks the end into the same shed as she threw the pick, but for this technique, she tucked it into the next shed, so that when the end comes back with the second pick, there is overlap in the same shed and she would cut that other end off about an inch past the selvedge. After the item was washed, she’d cut it off even with the shed. How is this not the same thing?
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I “see”what you are describing now. However, this YouTube video – The Little Things – 2 Picks Colour Sequence – might help more than me trying to describe things further – I hope so!
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Sandra, thank you so much! That is exactly the technique I was talking about. I weave a lot of tartans and am constantly dealing with 2 picks of one color, so when Jane introduced this technique, I really sat up and noticed! It’s so very helpful. That’s why I was wondering why she didn’t do it with the super fine threads. I’m guessing that buildup just isn’t enough of an issue to worry about. Thank you so much for putting up with me!
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