Thoughts on 3.7.4 – Reviewing Threading and Fulling – Double Width, Double Layers

[Ginette]

Let us know your thoughts on 3.7.4 – Reviewing Threading and Fulling – Double Width, Double Layers.

[Ila McCallum]

Wonderful explanation of double weave! Thank you!

[Josee Laroche]

I love your double weave course. If I will double weave a mohair blanket, how do you manage the fold? Do you remove a thread like you show us on 3.7.2 and put another color and kind of yarn then it will be easier to remove ?

[Ginette]

Hi Josee,
I think your idea is a great one and should work just fine actually. Let us know how that works out, it’d be good to hear about it 🙂

[Robyn B]

Wonderful explanation of doubleweave. I’ve done all these techniques on a Rigid Heddle loom with good results. Am so excited to try on my 4 harness loom. Looks like a piece of cake compared to a RH loom. Thank you Jane as always for explaining the difference between a Jack and Counterbalance loom. I’ve had no experience with a C.B. loom but feel with your explanations that if I ever get the chance to work on one that I’ll be able to do the tie-up perfectly.

Am looking forward to working with the thinner threads for the next 2 classes. When will the kits be ready for purchase?

[Gale]

Hi Jane,
Can’t thank you enough for making a weave structure that always seemed so complicated, into one that I look forward to exploring. I have watched the first segment several times while taking notes.
Gale from Petrolia

[amccarthy4]

Thank you so much for this doubleweave lesson. I can not wait to get the shawl I am working on done and start making some bags!

[camero1949]

Jane how can you hemstiich for double width? Or what is the best finishing technique?

[Ginette]

Hi camero1949, I’ve copied/pasted my answer to another member about hemstitching, here it is:

It would be difficult to hemstitch your bottom layer on the loom. Depending on what yarns you’re using, if it’s a wool that you’ll full you can just twist the fringes. If it’s something like cotton, you could machine stitch once the fabric is off the loom and opened. If you’re weaving a bag, then you can weave both layers together and that will seal it then you can machine stitch afterwards and leave some nice short untwisted fringes.

(Just adding to my previous response, that some have hemstitched both layers when the fabric if off the loom but I haven’t tried that.)

[camero1949]

Thanks so much! That’s what I thought!

[heidi]

Love this double weave, especially making a tube out of a rep weave piece which I have on the loom! THANK YOU.
On the instructions what’s the “CHECKING SHED” tie-up mean?
I’m not understanding what that is for.
Thanks

[Ginette]

Hi Heidi,

In the lesson 3.7.2, at the 5:55 mark, Jane explains the checking shed. On the tie-up, if you press on those treadles for ‘checking shed’, it will allow you to open your shed to make sure that your double width layers are being woven properly.

[Melissa Bishop]

OMG, you are my new idol! I love you!

Would you consider doing Doubleweave Pickup? I bought Jennifer Moore’s book and unfortunately, I’m a visual learner. I was so confused after reading her book and you cleared that all up for me. I want to make wall panels of Doubleweave Pickup for my church and really need a clear video explaining the warping, tie up and treadling.

[Jane]

Hi Melissa,
I’ll tell you a secret, I have never done double weave pick-up. Sorry it isn’t on the list at the moment. I’m sure there is someone out there who will be able to help you.
Cheers,
Jane

[fudsy1]

What notes? You mentioned making our note clear..
Loved this episode like all the past ones, you really are a great teacher

[Ginette]

Hi fudsy1, I believe Jane is talking about the draft itself that it would be clear on the PDF handout.

[mgvcec]

question: if I do not have the correct reed to do 2 per dent. For example I have an 8 dent reed and and need to slay 12 epi for a 4/8 cotton warp.
Is it ok if using your reed substitution chart I would sley 2,4,2,4 instead or will I have too many threads in my slots?
thanks for such wonderful classes, learning every day!
Maryelle

[Sandra]

You would sley 1-2-1-2 across your reed. If you sleyed 2-4-2-4 you would have a much narrower cloth and a much denser one. You would find that your fabric would be 1/2 as wide because your epi had been changed to 24 epi rather than 12 epi. Hope this makes sense!

[mgvcec]

the sleying is for a double weave fabric so would have 2 layers with that EPI .
I am not sure that you took that into consideration when responding to my question.

[Sandra]

I apologize – you are absolutely right! I had my weekend brain turned on 🙁 According to Jane’s Reed Substitution chart, 3 ends per slot in an 8 dent reed gets you 24 epi (12 per layer). Three ends shouldn’t be too crowded in each dent. Your suggestion on 2,4,2,4 would also work.

[mgvcec]

So the 2, 4,2,4 worked but leaves an empty dent when weaving layers giving a nice pattern. The 3 perdent would probably give me a more even fabric

[Sandra]

Thanks for reporting back, Maryelle! I look forward to seeing a photo of your finished cloth on the Online Guild Forum 🙂

[nc345]

Hi,

So I’ve watch all of Double Weave lesson 7 and rewatched 3.7.2 .I did view the review and saw the various samples. –One without removing the Harris, one replacing the Harrisville with the Mercerized thread and one where two threads of Harrisville are removed.

1.I’m still wondering what that skipped dent at the fold line does?

2. Why aren’t we removing the Harrisville and the Mercerized thread if Jane removed two threads of Harrisville in the sample where she unthreaded halfway.

Hope this makes sense.
Thank you!!

 

[Sandra]

I asked Jane to explain it, as only she can sometimes 😉

1.  That empty space is on the fold side and it will allow a little more space for the fabric to open out and become flat.

2.  We do remove the mercerized thread on the fold….it was only in there to help the selvedge with draw-in.  You usually have a little less draw-in.  That mercerized thread was in with the Harrisville.  When I pulled those 3 threaded of Harrisville out to get a better center line….I had to pull out 2 because 2 ends are required for a full plain weave….if I had just pulled 1 out then it would have left a double thread in the middle which would have been a flaw.

[nc345]

Thank you!!  As always, mind blown, in a good way , as with each episode, instruction, and explanation.

I’m learning so much and look forward to trying this!

 

[cheryl roberts]

I am loving the double weave project.   I used yarns from my stash for the warp which were mostly similar to Harrisville Shetland.   I did put in a stripe of a different wool.  All the threads have been cooperating beautifully except for the “other” wool.  It isn’t beating in well and I have decided to replace those 14 threads with something more cooperative.  So, my question is :  how to weight 14 threads off the back without them getting all tangled up??  It is too long a warp to unwind (5 yds).   Maybe, wrap them around a stick and weight that?  Not sure how to proceed.

Any suggestions?

Thanks for any tips.

Cheryl Roberts

[Sandra]

Changing and weighing the warp at the back of the loom is a great idea.  If you want a refresher and watch Jane as she replaces a zinger – head back to Season 2: 2 – 3 at the 31:52 minute mark.  It won’t seem quite so mystifying if you watch Jane do it 😉

[cheryl roberts]

Sandra.  Thank you.  That was most helpful.

[Author]

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