- This topic has 43 replies, 26 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 8 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
-
I feel like this is a very silly question, but I have to ask because I don’t have any boat shuttles at all. What about stick shuttles? Is it worth it for me to invest in boat shuttles right away or can I just keep using my stick shuttles?
Thank you!
Zee
-
What kind of loom do you have Zee? If you are on a rigid heddle that is not too wide, then passing your weft yarn through your shed on a stick shuttle certainly works. However, if you are using a floor loom or wider loom, then being able to “throw” your shuttle so it glides across your warp, helps you speed up your weaving and develop a rhythm as you weave. Most weavers who have been weaving for a while have shuttles they no longer use. Do you happen to know anyone that might lend you a shuttle that they are not using?
-
On looms other than floor loom, there is no shuttle race to help support the boat shuttle. My friend was having trouble with many mistakes in her weaving. I encouraged her to use a stick shuttle as it is easier to catch your pick mistakes as they’re happening. The stick shuttle hugely improved her weaving. Try both, but don’t feel compelled to get a boat shuttle just because everyone says you must.
-
-
-
Hi again Lee,
For scarves, shawls & blankets, hemstitching is mostly done on the loom before starting to weave and when they have woven the length they want, then hemstitch again for the other end. Oh and on some sampling too! It helps to keep samples nice and tidy after they’ve been washed, you’ll see that in Season 2 on the samples. If you were weaving towels, most weavers will hemstitch after their towels have been woven and off the loom either with a sewing machine or hand-stitching. You can hemstitch towels on the loom like Jane demonstrates as well, I’ve seen weavers do that as well. I think it comes down to preference.
-
-
I hem stitched my rug and want to leave a short fringe. Will the hem stitch hold it (especially when washing) or do I need to twist a fringe or tie knots in addition to the hem stitch to finish it off?
-
You do need to do something to secure your hemstitch, so either twisting a fringe or tying knots right next to your hem stitch and leaving a fringe would work. You could also do a decorative edging with knotting that could look interesting and add a secure edge to your rug. Lots of possibilities but I’d want to lock the ends of the rug in to withstand the wear and tear of hard use as a rug.
-
-
Hi, I am a fairly new weaver learning on a 4 shaft table loom with stick shuttles. Can one use the same technique of placing weft, beating, changing shed and returning beater to the back. At present my teacher says to place weft with either an angle or a bubble, change shed and then beat. I have a 2nd hand locally made 4 shaft loom at home (in Cape Town, South Africa) and hope soon to prepare my first warp on my own and put it on the loom. I don’t have access to the wonderful yarns available in Canada and the USA so mostly use 4ply or D.K. weight knitting yarn or crochet cotton No. 5 on a Cone or balls of 4ply or D.K. weight in 50 gram balls. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Finance is a consideration so I had looked at LeClerc plastic boat shuttles which were around $20 which would translate into around 292.00 South African Rand. However, the shipping cost was over R1000.00 and I would still be faced with Customs Duty and Sales Tax on arrival in South Africa. Rather daunting for an elderly person on a fixed income. Just as a matter of interest, I am 79 and only started weaving mid year 2018 although I also knit, crochet etc.
-
You can use stick shuttles, your weaving will just be a bit slower. As Jane often says, there isn’t a right way or a wrong way in weaving – just what works for you. Try beating both ways and decide what you like best. I find that Jane’s way places my weft firmly in place and keeps it there until I throw my shuttle again.
Why don’t you introduce yourself on the Online Guild Forum You’ll find weavers from all over the world there. Have you looked for a local Weaver’s Guild, sometimes weavers downsize and are looking to sell or give away equipment they are no longer using.
-
-
-
-
-
-
Am I clear that there is no catching a loop of the thread either on the straight pick or on the diagonal pick? I think I was taught to catch a loop (I have not woven for 6 years and have forgotten a lot)
Thanks
-
-
Again, I will change how I hemstitch. Makes so much sense to have those 2 rows of PW and nothing else in the beginning of the weaving and leaving a bit of a gap between them and the header. However, the gap at the end keeps the hemstitching from lying snug up against the weaving and the two ends don’t match. Did I miss something?
-
I followed this technique with a few tea towels I just made with 2/8 cotton. I’ve never tried this before, though, so I have a few silly questions before I get to cutting each piece part and washing. This part stresses me out for some reason. =)
1. Does hemstitching keep my weft from coming out once I cut it off? Or do I need to do something more to ensure it all doesn’t fall apart?
2. When I cut each tea towel from my warp, do I cut right up to the hemstitched area, or should I leave a little, and cut the threads closer to the cloth after i wash?
-
Hemstitching often works best with a fringe, so I would leave enough to give your towels an elegant look! If you hemstitched over 3 or 4, threads – your stitching should hold. I use hemstitching on things like shawls, scarves, table runners and other items that don’t get washed a lot. With tea towels, I do a folded hem and hand sew the hem. Done that way, extends the life of the towel. These towels will be a focal point in your kitchen, so enjoy them.
-
-
-
Just make sure you have left double the width of the hem between 2 towels. So you would weave 1.5″ hem, Towel #1, 3″ hem, Towel 2, 3″ hem, Towel 3, 1.5″ hem. I learned this the hard way and didn’t have enough for a hem.
-
-
Do you always hemstitch over 2 picks, even for fine yarns?
Thanks!
Jane, I love your teaching style! You are a very very good teacher. I am so glad I joined this online guild!
-
I always consider how the warp threads would look in a fringe. For instance, I hemstitched a project today that combined a “shrinker” and a non-shrinker. I was careful to separate them when hemstitching because they will shrink very differently when I finish the item. If they were mixed together, they would do that in a single fringe. Also, if you are combining a single thread on one colour with a group of another colour, you would have a barber pole effect. So – use your own judgement when deciding – there is no rule!
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
I bought 2 LARGE cones at a guild sale. Then I missed out on a class in May, so I put on a warp for 2 large towels with extra extra yardage. Towels are done and I was trying to figure out what patterns to try when I decided to sign up. I always intended to use those cones for playing, now I have inspiration and guidance!
-
Just wanted to say a big thank you. I have been weaving for about 8 years. I have never been taught how to actually weave! I have done all sorts from block weave to deflected double cloth -quite successfully. I found your course because I was looking for ideas for colour and weave. I decided to start right at the beginning although I thought I knew everything! Wow I have learned so much. I am now teaching myself to hold and throw the shuttle correctly. Such a difference. Thank you so much
-
-
-
At 26:16, why do you hemstitch?
I understand why you hemstitched at the beginning of the project in this video, but by the video’s 20:16 mark, you’ve only woven a few inches of the project: why hemstitch again at this point?
Related question: When weaving, is it necessary to hemstitch after every few inches of weave?
Thanks!
Paul
-
Hi Paul. Hemstitching happens at the beginning and end of a project and isn’t necessary in-between. Jane was demonstrating the two different methods, one used at the start and the other for the end of your cloth. She did them so close together because it was a demo video and not a project video. Hope this helps!
-
-
Hi. I love the instructions on hemstitching. Jane makes it look effortless – and I find it easier to do after watching her.
Does Jane have a video or instructions on double (Italian) hemstitching? It is called for in the Candy Cane Runner pattern in the November/December 2020 issue of Handwoven magazine. I have watched some videos on the technique but have found them confusing. Was hoping Jane has one to watch.
Thank you!
-
Linda, I have just warped this project on my David, and searched to see if Jane had a video or discussion/instructions for Italian hemstitching, but could find none. You’ll note on page 68 of the Nov/Dec 2020 issue of Handwoven there are some instructions for Italian hemstitching, but I found them to be a little too cryptic (only 2 illustrations of the technique) and not so helpful.
Interweave did publish a one-page PDF to download which expanded on their hemstitching instructions above, and which had 3 illustrations for Italian hemstitching… better! Click the “download this PDF” link on page: https://handwovenmagazine.com/finishing-and-hemstitching/
However, the very best help I could find was in a little old (published 1988) book on my shelf called “Finishing Touches for the Handweaver” by Virginia West. Several online yarn sources carry the paperback for $21. As an example, here it is at Yarn Barn of Kansas (a great resource, BTW): https://www.yarnbarn-ks.com/Finishing-Touches-For-the-Handweaver/productinfo/WB-0934026408/
Hope this helps!
-
Linda… here’s a PS to my post #182867 – immediately above (or below?) about instructions for Italian hemstitching. I have always used a plain (straight) tapestry needle for hemstitching, but somewhere saw a post about how much easier a bent darning/tapestry needle is for this purpose. I finally bought one and am using it now for the Candy Cane runner and, let me tell you, it is fantastic! The one I found on Amazon had two needles and a Chibi case (perfect, since the top on my 38-year-old Chibi case had recently broken off):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XZWGPE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck!
-
-
Is it normal for the hem to move as you weave? If not, how do I fix it? The picture below shows the problem. The warp is light fingering weight wool and weft is fluffy fingering wool.
-
Hi Candy,
It can happen if the hemstitching is a bit loose. Hard to tell if that’s the case but Jane shows how to with weft faced on this video around the 3:30 mark that might help you
Lovely greens and design!
-
-
Hi, this question isn’t related to hem stitching as such but that’s where I am in the videos at the moment. I have recently bought a Louet 50cm Erica and a stand. Has anyone got any pointers on ergonomics please as after about 10 minutes. I have a burning pain across the top of my shoulders and going up into my neck, so I’m obviously doing something wrong. I’m 5ft 8. Thankyou
-
Loved every minute of this series. I’ve learned so much. Do you think I should get a floor loom now. I have an Erica table loom I haven’t really mastered but am tempted to go on to a floor loom? Bonnie
-
We can’t tell you what to do in that department 🤣 However, I can say that if you have an Erica 50 with 4 harnesses, you should be able to weave most of the samples in the next few years with no problem. Some weavers divide their samples in 2, if it’s a particularly wide sample that would be challenging on their loom – but table looms are frequently used to weave the samples.
-
-
- The forum ‘Season 1 – Foundation’ is closed to new topics and replies.
