Thoughts on 3.4 – Good Weaving Technique – You Can Weave in 10 Minutes

[Ginette]

Let us know your thoughts on 3.4 – Good Weaving Technique – You Can Weave in 10 Minutes.

[nthomas1119]

Thank you for introducing weaving loom , I have learned a lot from JST on line and with my friends helped. now I am on my second project but, I am still have go back and looks from the start ” vidio”, I just wonder do you have a limit time to login to watch it over and over ( I am very slow leaner )
Thank you
Nangnoi Thomas

[Jane]

Hi Nangnoi,
You can watch those videos as many times as you want. No limit while you have a subscription. And there are many more videos to come.
Cheers,
Jane

[karthur114]

Okay, I’m going to revise my shuttle throwing and beating after that one! Thanks

[Sarah74]

Hi! I am a very new weaver so this may be a silly question… I understand beating on an open shed, but is there a particular reason for changing the shed before putting the beater back? I have a table loom and in order to change the shed I’m going to have to let go of either the shuttle or the beater. Thanks!

[Jane]

Hi Sarah,
Not a silly question. Sometimes when you change the shed, warp threads can stick so if you bring your beater back after you have changed your shed it will clear possible stickiness.
It is really easy to do this on the floor loom, not as easy on a table loom.
Hope this helps,
Jane

[Sandra]

I have a table loom that I weave on as well as a floor loom. Changing the shed with the beater forward places your weft nicely and holds it while you change sheds. As for putting the shuttle down, I’ve become somewhat ambidextrous over the years I’ve had my table loom. I’ve taught myself to change my sheds and put the beater back with either hand, holding the shuttle while I make the change. Give it a go and see if you can talk your nondominant hand to listen to you! Also, I have my loom on a stand and putting the shuttle down is a relatively quick thing to do. I’m not a production weaver 😉

[Ginny]

I picked up many useful tips in this video, particularly the shuttle throwing technique. I am have trouble quantifying the number of threads and pathway for “tucking the tail”. I found that section of the video too fast for me to catch on. Is there a way to describe it using the same format as the hem stitching pdf, which is a phenomenal handout?

[Melinda Calhoun]

If I had had this kind of instruction when I tried weaving some 10 years ago I would have been more successful and would be miles ahead by now. Ready to pull the 10 year old warps off the loom and start again – now with some real understanding of the process. Looking forward to getting started again.

[Kay Milbrandt]

Me too, except it’s been 20 years since I touched my loom, except for dusting! Hope I can get to the place where it does more than catch dust .

[Rosanna Lovecchio]

I have some habits to break…LOL.

[Rosie Rakocy]

This was most excellent. I need to work on my technique. Wish I had this video when I first began. I think she is an excellent teacher and I am going to re-learn how to weave and throw my shuttles. Thanks so much.

 

[Gretchen Green]

This shuttle throwing is my priority when I sit down to weave next. I saw about four things to unteach myself! Hope I am a faster relearner. Thank you for being such a wonderful teacher and are so willing to share your expertise with us.

[Kathleen Birch]

I am so excited to get started! Since I’ve only woven rag rugs, I have ski shuttles and the bigger shuttles to hold the rag lengths. I am planning on buying Schacht open-back/bottom boat shuttles. What length would you recommend I start out with? I know I will expand my shuttle collection over time but would appreciate advice for the first few…and would I start with ordering maybe, three? Thanks!

[Sandra]

Welcome, Kathleen!  Personally, I use the 11″ Schacht shuttles – they fit nicely in my hand.  I have the regular height ones to use on my Louet David.  However, my Woolhouse table loom’s shed is not quite as high, so I have the 11″ slims that I use on it.  I keep 2 with each loom, but the slim ones are happy to take a vacation with the David if I need more shuttles 😉

Schacht 11″ Open Bottom Shuttle

 

• This reply was modified 3 years, 5 months ago by Sandra.

[Emma Hamilton]

Would you use the same beating routing for any type of weaving, even weft-faced rugs?  I’m a bit confused because I was doing your way for my rug and people are saying you should change to the next shed before beating?

[Sandra]

I would beat the way Jane has advised because it gives us so much more control over the placement of our weft!

[Kathleen Birch]

One quick question–I’ve dressed my loom, tied it on and am ready to start weaving some towels. I followed the planning lessons so that’s all in order. I am using 8/4 cotton only because it’s what I have on hand (I have woven rag rugs for years and that’s all I’ve every used for the warp). I have purchased boat shuttles and have ski shuttles on hand (in addition to the big shuttles for rags…). I can’t wait to use my new bobbin winder and boat shuttles but worry that the 8/4 cotton is too thick to use a boat shuttle. I know nothing about boat shuttles so am just guessing at this point. Is a boat shuttle ok or will I have so little on it that I will have so many tails as I’m weaving? My alternative is a ski shuttle? I do have a couple of the flat shuttles that come with rigid heddle looms. What would be the recommendation. Can’t wait to finish these towels and then I’ll order some other cottons to weave more towels. Thanks.

[Ginette]

Hi Kathleen,

I would try the boat shuttle and practice like Jane shows, you’ll probably end up really liking using it as it’s much faster when you get into a good rhythm. The 8/4 cotton does well on a bobbin, you do end up changing bobbins more often than 8/2 cotton but you’ll be weaving faster than with a stick shuttle for sure. As for tails, in an upcoming episode, there’s ‘splicing’ your threads at the selvedge when you change bobbins which really helps to not see the bulkiness of the doubling your ends. Jane did a little video as well just on that, you’ll find it right here towards the bottom of the thread:

‘It’s the Little Things’ Videos ~ weaving tips & tricks

[Danielle Perreault]

I learn with each video. Thanks

[Teresa]

So…… I’m back here in season 1…. life has gotten in my way… both good and bad!, but finally getting back to this problem that has plagued me.

this is the first warp I have done with cotton and I really worked on my technique with out improving this concern. My selvages are better and my weaving is smoother but every so often I skip warp threads.. irregular threads and irregular times, but mostly in the middle third of my warp.

It happens in the weaving sweet spot, just after I advance or later, on either shed…. and didn’t happen in the past when I used an acrylic/ cotton warp with more stretch……..Arrrrrgh.*#!,

my diagnosis of the problem is that I probably lashed on the mid third of the warp tighter than the ends, but I have no way to prove it, any other ideas I should attend to in the next project? Or some way to correct next time so it doesn’t happen for the full warp?

BTW… weaving on an old Fanny counterbalance and have reviewed my loom set up. Planning to get some new treadle cords. It otherwise looks well balanced and level after reviewing Jane’s video on her Fanny.

Gonna try some towels in cotton boucle

 

many thanks Terry

 

[Sandra]

Did you walk your hand across your warp when you were tying on, Terry?  It might be a good idea to review Dressing your Loom which includes tying on.  Don’t think you can blame it on your first time weaving cotton 😉

[Teresa]

For sure I did do that tho’ probably not “expertly”…. will review the video again but also looking to think outside my current thinking to be aware of any other potential pitfalls

 

thanks again

terry

[Melissa Corfield]

Hi There,

Brand new weaver here. I just finished my second project – my second stab at tea towels. The first project was really set up by a mentor. The second project I did most of the set up myself with her correcting my mistakes until it wound on. Then I threaded the heddles and sleyed it. I did that really carefully and made sure there were no twisted yarns etc.

So my question is this:

1) I found it hard to pass the shuttle through the way that Jane does in this video. It just fell through the shed on the bottom except for a very small sweet spot. After I advanced the weaving, I would have to carefully guide the shuttle without letting go until I got back to that sweet spot. Is this normal?

2) Even though the shed seemed to move freely, when I took the weaving off when I was done, there were several missed threads on the bottom of the fabric. What am I doing wrong? 

[Teresa]

I’ve been trying to research this… all I see posted is that there are many reasons..so I’m trying to develop a bit of a list by working thru the whole sequence that explains my irregular recurring problem

so far.

1) glitch in the warping or beaming….possible

2) threading and sleying errors… should be regular

3) tying on.. possible

4) treadle cords different lengths giving me a “ split shed”… one harness not sinking enough

5) beater not centred properly for my loom.. possible since I readjusted my harnesses

 

still open to other possibilities if anyone can add to my list

 

thanks

Terry

[Sandra]

Hi Terry, I’m happy to see that you are working through possible solutions to your skips in your fabric.  It does happen to all of us, but understanding why it’s happening is the best way to become a better weaver.  As you can see from Melissa’s comment above yours, as she tries to figure it out as well!  I would add that there could be possible differences in tension in your warp which could move forward as you weave.  The technique when throwing your shuttle is also key, and that comes with practice.  I look forward to following your journey of discovery 🙂

[Heddi Craft]

How (if at all) does the shuttle throwing technique change if your loom doesn’t have a shuttle race like my Ashford Table Loom?

[Sandra]

It doesn’t Heidi – you throw and beat your shuttle the same way.

[Meredith St. John]

wow thanks so much – what a pleasure to watch Jane weaving with solid technique!

This demo is super helpful!

Plus it looks like it’s going to be fun working with bouchée

[Angela]

This lesson were very helpful to weave more efficient even on a table loom by not worrying abut the selvedges and let the reed take what it need.  But as you have to put down the shuttle to change the shed Janes method of sequence is not applicable here I think. Do you have a tip how to weave most efficient on a table loom?

[Sandra]

Good morning, Angela.  I finished weaving a 10 yard warp on my table loom (a Woolhouse) before Christmas using Jane’s method.  I just use both hands – if my shuttle is in my right hand, I change my harnesses with my left hand.  It is slower than being able to use your feet for your harnesses, but like so many things in weaving, it just takes practice 😉

[Angela]

Thanks Sandra,

never would have thought of that but will try it that way 🙂

[Elizabeth Borajkiewicz]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>I am working on my very first piece.  In coordination with your wonderful class, I am doing Janet Dawson’s class and making her pillow.  i must tell you my selvages have improved 100% since I heard your weaving mantra “throw, beat,change, back!!!!!  They are not perfect but so much better.  i have attached a photo and hope you can see.  it also has ann error in the weaving sequence, which I now have to know how to fix 😊 </p>

[jadie lee]

I am doing the same thing! I’m finding it really helpful to watch Jane’s videos inbetween Janet’s. I agree that it has been so helpful to use Jane’s tips to finesse the techniques I’m learning. I had the same experience with my selvedges once I learned “throw, beat, change, and back”. Also, I love the dog story for tucking ends :). Looking forward to working my way up to some of these beautiful teatowel kits.

[Tu-Khanh Tran]

I am also working on an Ashford Table Loom and trying to translate what I see in this video. The overall technique does not change – I understand – but my selvedges are all over the place. 😀 First project, though.

So when I work on the table loom, I throw, have to put the shuttle somewhere, (because I need a free hand to) beat, change, release, pick the shuttle up and start anew. I am not sure where to put the shuttle to allow the open shed to take the yarn it needs to create a good edge.

I am open to new ideas and improvement suggestions. 😀

 

[Katherine Tetlak]

How long does it take before you stop saying mentally to yourself, “throw, beat, change, beater back, throw, beat, change, beater back…”?

[Sandra]

Never 🤣 – I’ve been weaving for a lot of years and it’s a constant “ear worm” when I sit at the loom.

[ssheins]

I am sure this question has been addressed by Jane, but I cannot find  the answer.  I was weaving with 8/2 cotton and 4 threads at EACH  selvage progressively got tighter.  When I finished a towel, I decided to cut off and rebeam back on as I was trying to figure out what I did wrong.  Well, those 4 threads at each selvage were now about 6 inches shorter than the rest of the warp!  Was it due to draw in, improper angling of the weft, or was the sett wrong at my selvages (should I have dented them differently?)?  Any thoughts on why this happened would be greatly appreciated!  I find if I understand why it happened, I am more likely NOT to repeat the error!  Thanks for the guidance!

[Sandra]

Did your warp run straight from your back beam to your cloth beam?  Did you weave using Jane’s mantra – throw, beat, change, beater back?  That would place your weft and secure it before you continued with your next pick.  There are a number of items on selvedges in the Knowledge Base, including one called In Praise of Good Selvedges that Jane covers how to get good selvedges in detail.

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