Thoughts on 3.3 – Good Weaving Technique – Playing the Loom

[Ginette]

Let us know your thoughts on 3.3 – Good Weaving Technique – Playing the Loom.

[sjgriebling]

I have a Norwood 4 shaft loom and I have trouble getting my shed to open as far as I see here – any ideas what is wrong?

[Jane]

Could be the length of your tie-up cords. It is always good to get in touch with the loom manufacturer for specifics about each loom….they are all different…all have different geometry.
The tie-up cord length on one loom will be completely different than on another loom. That is why it is best to send photos to Norwood and get their advice 🙂

[sjgriebling]

Thank you. That is good to know. I just emailed them!
Sue

[Wanda Bennett]

I too have a Norwood. I thought they were out of business. May I ask who you contacted?

[Lee]

Jane,
I am enjoying the learning your style (sense of humour)! Will you be doing a video on the tieing up the foot pedals to the shafts? Which pedal is tied to which shaft? I noticed in the techniques video that you seemed to be using only two foot pedals but it was hard to see. I am a brand new shaft weaver and haven’t put on the warp yet.

thank you,
Lee

[Ginette]

Hi Lee,
Jane has harnesses 1 & 3 tied together and 2 & 4 together to weave Plain Weave in this video. In Episode 8 – All About Looms, she talks the treadles for each of type of looms, counter-balance, rising shed, jack loom & counter-march and how to tie them up. Which type of loom do you have? Exciting that this is your first time on a shaft loom!

[wbcostume8]

Jane
Thank you for showing us a different broken thread solution. Even though I am an intermediate weaver, I don’t get enough time to weave and practice so these refresher videos are wonderful. I am learning many different ways to do things!
Wendy Melbourne

[rooneymt]

I may have missed it, but what size is your shuttle? Schacht makes a standard 11″ shuttle but they also have a mini 9″ shuttle. I’m assuming you are referring to the 11″? Thank you so much!!!

[Sandra]

Mine are 11″ shuttles (like Jane’s) and they are a perfect weight. I have a pair of “slim” ones that I use on my table loom where my shed is smaller.

[yezemin]

Thank you so much Jane, for this great video! I’m weaving for a few years now, but not a lot, so as it feels like I have the techniques down I wanted to check if there were things I missed, as a few things just didn’t feel comfortable.

A few weeks ago I started to weave a blanket in deflected doubleweave. Before that I watched Madelyn van der Hoogts video about that and was amazed as she told me: Always use a temple.
I got even 2 with my loom, but after fiddeling around a bit when I started I put them away, because I found them annoying.

But I have too and out they came again and I wove around 80cm with them, not very happy with them, but if I really have too…

Then I watched your video and thought: But that’s how I did it all the time and she says my selvedges will be perfect with that. Ok, they aren’t as sometimes I miss a loop and are to lazy to weave back to it or there is just a teeny bit of snag I didn’t even recognize or the selvedge gets a bit stuck on itself (happens with wooly stuff), but my edges were pretty straight without that temple.

So off the loom it went just now again. So much better!

And what’s great: You gave me the confidence not to check my selvedges all the time, as I do it the way you show. I just never was sure, that it really will be ok and every time something snagged or so I said to me: See, good that you check that as you don’t have a clue how to do it perfect!

I have to admit I don’t hold my shuttle like a teacup, but I also don’t grab it like a stick. More like a pencil or a dart. Have to test if it makes a difference if I hold it like you showed, but as you said: Habit… I feel pretty comfortable holding it my way and changing it it feels so crampy. 🙂

Thank you also so much for that mentioning of the over and under to grab the selvedge threads. I wondered why that happens sometimes, but never noticed the up or down slope of the weft as indicator what could be the cause for that.

[Lindsay Robb]

Hi! Total beginner here and no one to help within 150km! My question probably betrays that fact 🙂

So Jane, you talked about liking the open bottom shuttle because you can control the bobbin turn with your little finger. After you catch the shuttle, are you then using your little finger to ‘stay’ the bobbin while you beat? It looks like you might be doing this, so although I haven’t tried yet I thought I’d ask the question while it’s in my head.

Second question: I’ve been watching the videos and I’d like to get going a little bit. I’m learning on a little 15″ Dorothy for now with two looms waiting in the basement for when I wrap my head around all of this! Just wind a plain 2/8 cotton warp for now and tie it up 1,2,3,4 to start practicing as I’m still watching videos?

Thank you! I’ve been cursing living in ‘the sticks’ of Alberta in some kind of fibre black hole area but your videos are definitely helping get rid of the trepidation of starting!

[Sandra]

You’ve got it, Lindsay. I use my finger to stop the weft – without pulling on it – after I have placed it in position to beat.

If you are using your Dorothy table loom, after threading your warp through shafts in order of 1, 2, 3, 4 until your warp is totally threaded, you manually lift shafts 1 & 3 – throw and beat and then 2 & 4 – throw and beat, for every pick. It works just like a floor loom but your arms gets the exercise! Not sure if I’ve answered your question, let me know.

[Lindsay Robb]

Thank you! Yes, it did help! And after watching Jane talk about bonding with your loom etc (later episode about loom types), I think I want to skip the Dorothy and get my Minerva upstairs. I just need to get rid of my couch first to make room!
Thanks for the reply.

[Ila McCallum]

I have always beat on a closed shed but decided that I would giver your method a try. I must say that I like it and my selvages are better, at least on a first try on my table loom. An old dog can always learn something new! Thank you.

[Sheila Casey-Houston]

I am very new at this. I have a 4 shaft 15″ leclerc table loom and my shed is not looking right. The down shed is loosey goosey while the up shed is tight. I tried to loosen up the tension but it doesn’t help. If I try to tighten it , then I cannot move the shaft. Also, the shed is poorly defined and I can’t put the shuttle thru. I have to finger in to find the up shed!
What am I doing wrong?

[Sandra]

These might sound like silly questions but please don’t ask me how I know to ask 😉 Is your warp going over the back beam and straight across your loom to your heddles and reed? When you tied on, did you pull your warp ends so they were tight and even before tying on? Let me know and we can take it from there.

[Sheila Casey-Houston]

You’re right! I had not gone over the beam on the front or back. I managed to fix it without losing the warp. Thanks so much

[Anonymous]

I thought I had mounted my warp very successfully and I started plain weave placemats without incident. But as I got about half way through the second mat, the draw in increased to 1.5 inches on either side and I noticed that about 8 ends at both edges had become quite loose. Why, I can’t figure out. I finished the second mat but I need to fix this before going on. Is there any solution to this without cutting and retying the ends? I can’t weight them at the back because I’ll have smiley selvedges. I’ve never had this problem before. Why now? I’m using 2/8 cotton sett at 18epi. I hope you can help because I didn’t put on much extra warp.
Sylvia

[Sandra]

My guess, without seeing what’s happening, is that there are spots in your warp that might be longer than others, possibly from your warping pegs being a bit loose. You would have corrected that when you first tied on to the cloth beam but, as you move into the warp, they are moving forward to closer to your fell line. Have you “walked your hand” across your tied on warp to feel whether the tension is even across the warp? To get a visual of what I’m talking about – head back to Season 1: Episode 2-6 at the 9:15 minute mark. You should be able to feel problem areas and then, hang a weight off that area to even the tension across your warp. If your tension is even and you weave with Jane’s mantra “throw, beat, change, beater back” you shouldn’t get smiley faces. Let us know if that works.

[Emma Hamilton]

When it says. “dive the dip, jump the bump,” is that only if you are using two shuttles and interlocking the wefts at the selvedge? As in jump over the bump that the other thread makes in order to catch it, and vice versa?

[Sandra]

You’ve got it!

[Nancy Richard]

I’m trying to figure out how you’re tying the surgeon’s knot. You do something double with your threads, but I can’t see it on the video. Could you describe it or send a picture? I use a lark’s head knot (I think) and it seems okay, but I’d like to try the knot you’re using and see if it’s even better.
I’m a relatively new weaver, and I’m learning so much from your videos. Thank you!

[Jane]

Hi Nancy
It is just a normal reef knot with an extra twist. When you tie your shoes the first part is a reef knot. All I do is put put an extra wrap in it. I’m sorry I can’t draw it because I’m a lousy drawer.

[Gai Evans]

First, Thankyou for such a great series of videos – I love your teaching style. I’m a RHL weaver and have just started using an 8 shaft 24″Ashford table loom. I can’t quite wrap my head around how you put the warp on with only one cross – the only place for my raddle to rest is on the back beam. But I’m using a raddle cross and it’s OK. I was pleased to see you use the same method of tying on to the front as I do on my RH. rather than lashing on which I’ve always found a bit hit and miss. My question is about beating on an open shed – my beater won’t stay forward unless I hold it but I need my hand to change the levers so I tend to throw, beat, beater back, change, rather than throw, beat, change, beater back. I can’t quite see the difference it makes apart from perhaps speed? I’m also currently using a stick shuttle because I’m used to it but will a boat shuttle be OK without a race?

[Sandra]

Jane is really a fan of changing your shafts on a closed shed. When I’m weaving on my table loom, I hold the beater with one hand and change the shafts with the other. I know – you can’t do it all by holding your shuttle at the same time like you can on a floor loom, but …….. it does hold your weft in place while you are changing to the next pick. In my mind, it also helps me get nicer selvedges.

With regards to your raddle – can you clamp it on to your castle? Again, that’s what I do on my table loom. I know you have the tall beater bars but maybe there is room to clamp it there if you have all your toggles down. Just a thought 😉

[Gai Evans]

Thanks Sandra – I shall give it a go – holding the beater forward with one hand and changing with the other. When I’ve finished the project on the loom I’ll have another go with warping and try and put the raddle on the castle. (where there’s a will, there’s often a way! ) Do you have any advice regarding using a boat shuttle versus a stick shuttle on a small table loom?

[Sandra]

Hi back, Gai! I’ve totally converted to Schacht 11” open bottom shuttles – I have 2 slim ones that I keep with my table loom and 2 regular depth ones that live upstairs with my David loom. They are nice and light on the warp and give me control of the bobbin as well. I’ve had other shuttles in my weaving life, but I very rarely use them. I think I would find a stick shuttle too slow unless I was doing a hand manipulated weave structure like pick-up. Hope this helps. Keep us posted on the Forum as to how you are doing!

[Debra Harrison]

Is there somewhere where you discuss what to do with the “dog leashes” when you are done with the weaving? I haven’t felt secure with leaving just a loop around the end threads yet. Thanks!

[Ginette]

Hi Debra,
In Season 1 Episode 10.6 Ironing, Pressing, Trimming at the 8:38 mark, Jane shows what to do with tails after the fabric has been washed, which you can do as well with the ‘dog leashes’, love that term 😉
In just a few more episodes, 5.2 actually, you’ll have a good look at Tucking Tails technique.

[Debra Harrison]

Thanks so much!

[Cheryl Wilner]

I have just finished Season 2 and I am now doing my first color and weave gamp. I was reviewing the Season 1 , Lesson 3.3 in particular had noted the repair of a broken warp thread. The next day I was happily weaving along and – WHAT!? – I had this weird knot. Turned out to be a broken warp thread. I was almost giddy with excitement. LOL. I am sure that is not a normal new weaver reaction to this event. Thank you Jane for taking time to show us that things don’t always go perfectly, things happen and we can just manage the issue and weave on! My repair is almost seamless and holding brilliantly.

[juliamnorman]

I love your warmth and your humour Jane.
Its great that you talk about posture and that your own is so good. I teach the Alexander technique and am often horrified when watching others weaving, spinning or doing almost anything without any awareness of their “use” as Mr Alexander would say.

Many thanks,

Julia

[Vicki Klaassen]

I’m wondering about more specifics regarding what type of a header to weave. When I tie on, I’m making eight warp thread groups as instructed but I missed any specifics about how to weave a header that brings the warp threads together before doing the hem stitching. Thanks!

[Sandra]

I just weave less than an inch, using a similar weight yarn to the warp which stabilizes your cloth. Leave enough space so that you have room for your needle, throw a couple of picks and start hemming!

[Vicki Klaassen]

Thanks!

[nancy carol]

As a newbie to the floor loom, your videos are invaluable, especially for those of us who have very little on-site access to classes. I learned to weave on the rigid heddle through books and videos, and starting the same way with a “new to me” 4/6 floor loom. Since I have not developed my own style of throwing the shuttle yet (just “threw it”!) I tried your method on my second piece and it works very well. I still have fairly uneven selvedges but will continue to work on that. And a question on hem-stitching: I learned to do it in a similar way; but on the diagonal stitch, I bring up the needle inside the loop (or the “C” as it was described to me.) I assume your method makes it very secure, or you wouldnt do it, but I find it interesting that you don’t need to catch the loop of thread. I also like your way of hemstitching from the right side with both beginning and ending, instead of from the left at the end of the piece; which is the way I was taught. I will try your way on my next practice project.  I love your relaxed teaching manner.

[Ginette]

Hi Nancy,

There are so many ways of hemstitching and doing some decorative ones as well. The way Jane demonstrates is also my go-to stitch, which I learned from Jane years ago and it a good secure stitch. I would give it a go and try it out and see which one you prefer. I have done the one you do, that’s another good hemstitch 🙂

[Alice Martin]

Hi Jane,

I’m really enjoying your videos and your great personality.  Do you have a handout of how you repair a broken thread?

[Ginette]

Hi Alice,

There’s no handout on how to repair a broken thread that Jane demonstrates in this lesson at the 24:55. You could review it again on the video and slow down the speed. You’ll find the speed control in the setting icon at the bottom right of the video screen. Hope this helps!

[Mary Thresher]

Just watched the repair of the broken thread and was wondering what happens to the final end of the new warp thread? Does it hang loose over the back beam for the rest of the weaving or ??? I probably missed the explanation on this so forgive me for asking if Jane does say what to do with it. So many good tips in these videos!

[Sandra]

Hi Mary.  Jane only uses that interim replacement warp thread until the original warp thread can be introduced to her cloth.  You can see her showing us how to do this at the 40 minute mark of the “Good Weaving Techniques – Playing at the Loom”.

[Stephanie Thomas]

WoW! That sequence of events for throwing, beating in open shed, leaving beater, changing the shed and moving the beater back is WONDERFUL. I don’t hate my salvages any more! What a great way of doing things you have. Thanks for sharing!

Stephanie

[Deborah Fister]

wonderful episode and I need some help repairing a cut warp thread. I had to unweave several inches of weaving to correct a mistake and I cut a thread on my hand painted warp. I don’r have a matching thread to mend it with. Any suggestions?

[Kellie Stapleton]

Re: broken warp thread. Trying to figure out the sequence with the new thread. First weave it in and secure it with a needle on the front beam side. Jane goes to the back but I don’t see how she gets the new thread tied in a bow to the original thread on the back beam side?

• This reply was modified 3 years, 4 months ago by Kellie Stapleton.

[Sandra]

She ties the new warp threads to the broken warp thread, as tight as she can with a bow leaving enough of the broken thread available to pull through the heddle when she can.  She then weaves until she can bring it through her heddle, and work the original warp thread in again.  Clear as mud, Kellie?

[Lela Christo]

Is there any reason to use a regular shuttle over a slim? I have a schacht 11 in. open bottom slim shuttle and am needing to buy another but wondering if I should buy a regular instead of slim.
Thanks,
Catherine

[Sandra]

I have 2 slim ones for my table loom which doesn’t have a huge shed, and two regular  shuttles for my Louet David that has much bigger shed.  Therefore, I’m saying “it depends” 😉

[Deborah Fister]

my replacement warp thread was tied to the broken one and then pulled to the back. The untied end was woven into the cloth. The other end was tied to the warp at the back in a bow. But then something went wrong. I saw the bow  come up, but maybe too late. Anyway, the bow came undone and I had to thread the heddle by hand. I think I am going to pull the warp through when I am done. I wove too far and wasn’t going to take it out.

[Lela Christo]

I have a baby wolf. I assume there is no advantage to a bigger shuttle? Like to have it as light as possible.

[Sandra]

Go for the one that you feel you will be most comfortable with, Lela.  My comments were on what works best for me – there is no right or wrong answer on choice of shuttle – only what’s best for you.

[Shelley Lamie]

Question on repairing the broken warp thread — is there a recommended number of picks to leave the anchor in? I don’t want to remove it too soon, but for some reason, it feels weird to leave it in for too long. Thank you for such great instructions!

 

[Sandra]

In my mind, it’s kind of related to your sett and the yarn you are working with.  If your warp is wool, it will grab and hold well.  Silk, not so much so I might give it more room to be secure.  I often anchor it for 1 ½ or 2 inches.

[Pauline Bellecci]

I originally posted a question, then later in episode it was answered..So, am editing here. But is there a way to just delete totally to avoid clogging up the discussion?
I don’t see a comment delete button anywhere on IPad.

• This reply was modified 3 years, 4 months ago by Pauline Bellecci. Reason: Original question answered and I don’t know how to delete

[Marty Wink]

Hi,

Finally!  The reason for my loopy selves gets is a too small shed!!  Is there a general rule or percentage of an open shed that represents the ‘sweet spot’?  What are the boundaries?  Two-thirds of the distance between the apron and extended beater?

Thanks!

Marty

[Deborah Fister]

I am not sure if there is an actual number, but the shorter the distance between the breast beam and the beater, the more often you have to advance the water. On my table loom, I have to advance every inch or so.

[Amy Greenberg]

Hi – I noticed that Jane started the plain weave from right to left.  I found that if I start with 1/3 sheds from left to right, and then 2/4 sheds from right to left I catch the last thread for my selvedge.  Is there anything I’m missing about this?  How do you make sure that you don’t have loose selvedge thread when doing plain weave?

Thanks so much!

Amy

[Ginette]

Hi Amy,

With Plain Weave it won’t matter if you start with 1/3 or 2/4 as you will always catch the last thread. Are you by any chance using a floating selvedge?

[Linda Bonora]

Hi! I’ve been weaving for just over 3 years now. I learned to weave on a rigid heddle loom, then got a used 2 shaft counter balance loom, followed by an 8-shaft Macomber loom, and, finally, I have an 8-shaft Schacht standard loom.

This lesson was really an eye opener! Who would have thought that changing the sequence in weaving would make such a difference! I am working on a set of 6 towels. My selvedges are absolutely the best I have ever had, and I don’t “fuss” about them at all. It makes my time at the loom more productive and fun!

Thanks for the tips! I love your teaching style and have learned so much!!

Linda

[Josephine Tobin]

Hello,

Firstly, is this the best place to ask questions related to a technique demonstrated in the video? I looked through the forum and didn’t see the topic I am looking for there.

My question is about mending a broken warp thread. I am a new weaver and making a mohair sample and scarf before embarking on the blankie. One of the outermost warp threads has just broken. Because the epi and ppi are 6, I don’t think I am able to use the technique Jane has shown in this video (weaving in a new thread).

Is there another technique? Or would I simply tie in a new section of mohair several inches long?

Thank you in advance.

Josephine

[Karen Borga]

I have a new to me 60″ Leclerc Nilus II. Major upgrade from my rigid heddle.

I warped 45″ … and can’t get my shuttle across the warp … it keeps taking a dive.

Can you please help? Thank you.

Frustrated new weaver,

~ Karen

[Sandra]

Congratulations on your “new to you” loom, Karen.  That’s quite a jump, as well as a change in technique from a rigid heddle.  You are facing a challenge with learning to throw a shuttle efficiently across a wide warp.  I wish there was an easy answer, but assuming your tension is even across your warp, you just need to practise the technique that Jane demonstrates, holding and throwing your shuttle over and over again.  By chance, is there a shuttle race on your beater, I somehow don’t think so.  I won’t promise that your shuttle will never dive again – mine still does occasionally if my focus is distracted!

[Karen Borga]

Thank you.

I’ll just keep trying … one day, I will look back at this … and chuckle … I hope “one day” is next week!

Have a lovely day … hopefully weaving,

~ Karen

[Trish]

I love these colours….could you tell me what colours they are? thanks

 

[Josephine Tobin]

.

[Patty]

I have a question about advancing the warp.  The texsolve ties on my Baby Wolf start to wrap around the front beam, build up, and cause lumps when the beginning of the weaving reaches them.  The knots also cause lumps.  Do you use sticks or whatever to cover the lumps?

[Sandra]

I have that issue on one of my looms and when that happens, I wrap a piece of cardboard over the knots, to cover my cloth beam.  Hope that helps.

[Patricia Rollman]

It’s interesting to me that Jane contradicts many things my original weaving teacher said. Such as putting the shuttle down on the cloth. Or how to wind a bobbin. Or how much tension I need. Or how to check for consistent tension when warping.

My current project is some kitchen towels for my personal use so perfect for experimenting with Jane’s techniques. I rewound the bobbin like a sausage. Amazing. It has some snags, due to my poor winding, but my selvages are significantly better just from that. (I changed technique partway thru so will be interesting to compare sections).

I’ve also been using a 15″ schacht open bottom shuttle (for years). It’s clearly too big. When I don’t have to stop and manage selvidges on every throw, it’s a tank. I’ve sent an email out to my local guild to borrow an 11″ and a 9″ to see what I think before I buy a new one.

I don’t yet have reliable muscle memory for the 4 step sequence (re-learning is hard!), but getting there. Already the resulting cloth is much more consistent in the beating.

I’m sold that this is a better way than what I was previously taught.

[Sandra]

Hi Patricia- so happy to hear that you are happier at your loom!  Try putting a bright post it note with Jane’s mantra on it somewhere that catches your eye, until you no longer have to think “Throw, Beat, Change, Beater Back”!  😄

[Gisela Towner]

Replying to Pjcm — Ooh, I had this problem too and found a great solution for this. For something narrow like a scarf, you can use the tube from a roll of paper towels with a slit cut in it and on a a wider warp, I use a tube from wrapping paper, also with a slit.  I save all the empty wrapping tubes at holiday time and cut them to size to fit every loom.  🙂

• This reply was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by Gisela Towner.

[Leslie Soopalu]

Newbie question.  If you have something on the loom and know you own’t be weaving for a while, do you leave it under tension or do you back it off a bit?

[Sandra]

If it’s going to be quite a while – like weeks – you could lessen the tension a bit.

[Kerrie McAlister]

Hi,

I’ve watched this segmentand have been practicing.

Loving the technique, the images are my latest practice session.

Not perfect but progressing.

Thank you for great content and a brilliant teaching style.

Kerrie.

 

 

[Johana]

You say you control with your ring finger how the yarn unwinds from the shuttle. Can you write in more detail when you are controlling it unwinding and when not? I mean, at what point when throwing the shuttle? Thank you.

[Rozamond Hemberger]

I have a question about weaving with two shuttles.  I appreciate the scallops on the side (accepting their beauty!) but at what point are the scallops too long?

I am a self taught weaver and some of these basic ideas and techniques are new to me!  I appreciate this online class so much!

Roz H.

[Sandra]

Good morning, Rozamond.  You’ll find the answer to your question just 2 episodes ahead of where you are now!  Jump ahead to episode 5.2 – “Project Planning 101… Putting it All Together – Intro to Unfinished Business – Tucking Tails”.  Jane shows us a couple of things that I never learned either as a self taught weaver.  Life at the loom is so much easier when we master her mantras like “jump the bump and dive the dip”!

[Johana]

You say you control with your ring finger how the yarn unwinds from the shuttle. Can you write in more detail when you are controlling it unwinding and when not? I mean, at what point when throwing the shuttle? Thank you.

 

[Sandra]

Your ring finger is at the ready to stop the bobbin if it starts unwinding too fast, as well as to very gently control the yarn as it does unwind.

[Johana]

Does that mean I’m braking the spool until I throw it in the shed? Will it be loose enough for the yarn to unwind? So is it just that the yarn does not unwind during the change of direction?

[GAIL HALKIAS]

I’ve seen several questions about regular vs. slim Schacht 11″ open bottom shuttles.  The advisability of slim vs regular depends on the shed.  Sandra said she uses the slim on her table loom, which has a smaller shed than her Louet David.  I think I’ve read that the David, a sinking shed jack loom, has a better shed than, say, the Baby Wolf.  Is that true?  Is it likely that a slim profile shuttle would work better with a Baby Wolf?  I’m still working on a rigid heddle but am planning to buy a multishaft loom within the next few months.  And right now, the Baby Wolf is at the top of my list, for a bunch of reasons.   Will it doom me to poor sheds that require smaller shuttles?

Thanks!

[Ginette]

Hi Gail,

Just adding to Sandra’s comment, in Season 1 Episode 8.3 on looms, at the 3:39 mark is a really good shot of an open shed on the Wolf Pup loom. I haven’t personally seen in person the Baby Wolf one but as it is a larger loom than the Wolf Pup, I’m guessing that the open shed would be bigger or at least equal to. Jane uses the regular size Schacht shuttles on her Baby Wolf.

I also have used the regular Schacht shuttle on my Jane loom without any issues. I have both the regular and slim ones but 99% of the time it’s the regular one that I weave with.

[Sandra]

Hopefully, someone can tell you what the shed is like on a Baby Wolf, Gail – I’ve only woven on them in workshops.  The other factor is the weight of the shuttle.  My David is wider than my table loom, therefore I like the bit of extra weight in my hand when I throw the shuttle across the shed.

[Leslie Soopalu]

This is a question about the ‘sweet spot’ of weaving on my 48″ Fanny counterbalance.

I find that there is only about a 4″ sweet spot of weaving. If I’m to close to the breast beam the beater bar doesn’t seem to hit the edges of the project well and if I’m to close to the heddles then the shed is to small and I catch alot of the bottom warp with the shuttle.

Do you think this 4″ is normal or is it my technique? I’m particularly interested in why the beater bar doesn’t hit evenly against the project when I’m to close to the breast beam (i’m talking 3″ between working edge of project and breast beam). I’m watching Jane’s sample 6 (plaid) and see how close to the breast beam she is weaving. When I advance to close to the beam, the beater appears to push the threads apart to much and then there is a big gap at the edges between weft threads. Yikes not sure If I’m explaining this well but hoping you understand and can offer some guidance. Worst case scenario I can just weave within that 4″ and all is ticketyboo.

thanks, Leslie

[Sandra]

Good morning, Leslie.  Your sweet spot is usually a smallish section on your cloth – that’s why it’s called a “spot” 😉  It is tempting to weave more without winding on, but by doing that you are weaving in an area where you don’t have as much control on your selveges.  Take a close look at your warp as it comes from your reed to the fell of your cloth in the sweet spot and you will see that your selvedges are drawing it in and it’s not quite as wide.  That’s why we allow for draw-in when we plan our projects.

Is your beater relatively tight so you can’t unconsciously twist it as you beat?

[Leslie Soopalu]

Lol. Point taken about the sweet ‘spot’. On the bright side, I found it!!

Is the beater bar supposed to be completely rigid? It isn’t even though I’ve tightened all the bolts.  I’ll have my technical assistant (read husband) take a lookielou and try to improve the rigidity.

Thanks for your help. On to the plaid sample…..

L

 

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