- This topic has 51 replies, 29 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 4 months ago by
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Hi Jane:
I’m having trouble with the video. Your voice starts and stops and with a couple of seconds in between before it starts up again.
What can I do about it?
Thanks,
Pam -
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Hi Jane,
I was given a tip years ago that has been very helpful. Tuck a sheet of white paper under your weaving when hemming with black thread.
Gale -
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Hi Shari, try using Chrome, switching browsers seems to work for most folks. You could also try a few other things listed below if changing browser doesn’t help. Let us know if you’re able to view the episode.
-Make your browser perform a “hard refresh” – https://howtohardrefresh.com/ – and then try viewing the episode you experienced problems with.
-If that doesn’t work could you then try “clearing your browser’s cache” – https://kb.iu.edu/d/ahic – then perform a “hard refresh”. Then try to view the episode.
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So when we warp the loom , in the raddle I did 12 threads ,space ,12 threads, space in a 1/2 Inch slots correct?
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I love this episode! I also love the scarf/shawl that is hanging behind Jane in the reds/oranges/brown stripes. Will we learn how to do that in a future episode? I am curious as to what the warp is. I would think this is also a denting project but what is used for the warp. I so want to make that!
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Hi Jane: I have started the denting scarf and find that the dents aren’t staying together when
I am winding it onto the front beam, not sure why. -
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Hi Jane, I understand now that the sett must be close to maintain the denting. I lost my vertical dents after wet finishing. When determining proper sett for this technique, how do you determine how much closer the threads should be? Is there some kind of formula to follow? Thanks!
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Hi Jane,
You mentioned that it would be fine to use any yarn for the denting technique. I would like to use up some of my 8/2 cotton which i bought for Season 1…but my little mind is going nuts trying to convert the sleying…advice please?
Debbie -
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I have just finished watching Episode 1 – Denting. I’m looking forward to doing a sample with some 20/2 linen that I have but I’m not sure how to warp the loom. If I’m using a raddle should I space the threads as I would for the straight draw threading and then warp the same way. I’m using the PDF draft from Episode 1. Thanks, Diane
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The kit says that you use 30/2 silk. However in the video you say it’s 20/2 silk.
I ordered the 30/2 silk along with the kit.
Will it make any difference? -
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Is there a reason that Jane is putting so many ends into each hem stitch? Wouldn’t having fewer ends per “bundle” secure it more? Or is this one of those personal preference things?
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Rachel, I think when Jane is hemstiching, she is thinking in terms of how many ends will be happy as a pair wound in a fringe. However, you are right – it is a personal preference and depends on the weight of the yarn in your warp 🙂 Try it using another opportunity to sample and see which is the result that you like.
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Still a little unsure on sett configuration … my question is if I do the warp in 8/2 thread rather than 16/2 I would sley the 12 dent reed the same? The weave would just be a little tighter? Or should I change the number of threads per dent? Thanks in advance.
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Hi Allyson, you would need to change your sett to accommodate the 8/2 cotton. 16/2 is sett at 24 while I would go with 18 for the 8/2 cotton. You’ll also need to do the math for your warp and reduce your thread count if you want it to be the same width as the sample draft and change the threads per dent as well for the reed.
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Ive done this with white slubby wool warp and weft,which worked very well. Then I did the same using silk for warp and weft which was less successful. Now I am going to try out 2/33 cottolin for warp and weft, hopefully this will work much the same as cotton.
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Many thanks,
Julia
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Hi Julia – 33/2 cottolin is not a yarn that is easily available to us in Canada. It does seem like a lovely weight to use for your fine weaving. You would have to double check your sett by doing a ruler wrap – allowing space for the weft you plan to use. You can search in the index using the word “ruler” to watch the video, if you haven’t seen it yet. Let us know how that weight of cottolin weaves up!
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I just started working on this project and things are going along OK….but just OK. I am weaving in the same color sequence as the warp and am tucking the tail when I start and finish a color but am carrying the yarn up the side between the two same-color stripes. I’m OK with tucking the tail but I’m really having difficulty carrying the yarn along as I cannot see exactly what Jane is doing in the video as her hand blocks the view of the camera. If I carry the yarn up to the place where I draw the yarn taught across the warp and then tap it into place, I get a loop along the selvedge which, I’m sure, isn’t correct. If I pinch the yarn where it intersects with the warp, it creates a curve. I’m not sure if this is explained clearly or not, but not being able to see exactly what’s happening on the video has made this much harder than I expect it should be. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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I’m just wondering if you are pulling your weft too tight before you beat it. It would create a curve or extra draw-in if your weft doesn’t have enough room stay nicely in place when you gently beat it. Jane also holds the next pick to stabilize it the same way and then weaves away. She also reminds us that it will take practice to get this technique working in a way that makes us happy! Let us know if this doesn’t help.
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Thanks, Sandra. I leave the weft quite loose before beating as I don’t want to get a lot of draw-in. After reading your response and thinking about this further, I think your comment about more practice is exactly what I need. I’ll also rewatch some sections of the video just to be sure I’m doing this correctly. I really want to “like” denting but I’m not there yet.
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I am curious as to what happens to the header when you take it off the loom. Does that get cut off? I still very new. and how important is a header? would you do a header on a tea towel.
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I’m finishing my second scarf on the denting project using Jane’s denting kit. I cut the first scarf off the loom as a sample. I’ve left enough warp thread at the beginning for fringe but I need to leave enough warp between the 2nd and 3rd scarves for fringe as well. I hemstitched the end of the second scarf and left about 7 inches of warp before weaving a spacer to start the third scarf. Can I just start the third scarf allowing enough warp at the beginning for the fringe?
Diane
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I’m sure this is a really stupid question but I’m going to ask it anyway. Jane talked in the intro about this Megado loom being overkill for the project since it’s plainweave. This got me thinking about something. With a four shaft loom, you usually thread it 1-2-3-4 to balance the ends over all four shafts. But then you hook up one treadle to shafts 1 and 3 and another treadle to shafts 2 and 4. Right? So you haven’t really reduced your lifting load over a situation where you just thread 1-2 repeatedly. So what’s the advantage of spreading the warp over 4 shafts? Or 8 if you have an 8-shaft loom?
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If all you want to weave is Plain Weave, you can do it on 2 shafts and on any kind of loom you can think of since looms were invented many thousands of years ago. If you want to get more creative with your design with an option to change your tie-up to create something different – then it makes sense to spread it out. The Louet Megado loom is run by a compu dobby and comes in a 16 shaft model or a 32 shaft model. Jane’s point always is that there is so much you can weave on a 4 harness loom, learn the basics and you will never run out of ideas for your own unique cloth.
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Is this right? I’m using 8/2 cotton warp zephyr weft set at 18epi. Should I open it up more to be more obvious or is the zephyr to thin? Maybe it’s my beat too soft? I don’t have alot of zephyer to continue sampling for my scarf. Shoot I can’t delete this… Lol. Well I guess what happened was I’m having a little duh moment these were towels and I watched Janes video and cut them off in groups without realizing my denting was 1212. I just cut them off and now my threading is no longer one two three four. Time to rethread haha.-
This reply was modified 2 years, 5 months ago by
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This reply was modified 2 years, 5 months ago by
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This reply was modified 2 years, 5 months ago by
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Hi Holly, the weight of the yarns you have used are very different from the weight that Jane used in her samples. To give you an idea – 8/2 cotton gives you 3,360 yards per pound and Zephyr is about 5,040 yards per pound. Jane wove her sample and scarf with 16/2 cotton at 6,720 yards per pound for warp and 16/2 cotton as well as 30/2 silk at 7500 yards per pound. You are going to get a totally different look with your yarn much thicker than the yarn used in the sample. The number of yards that a yarn gives to a pound tells us that the 8/2 cotton is twice the thickness as 16/2 as do the first number in each yarn 16 is half the size of 8 in the yarn world.
Do you have any 16/2 cotton in your stash? I think you would get something closer to what Jane wove – if that’s what you are aiming for. The Zephyr would be fine with 16/2 as well but Zephyr is 50/50 wool and silk. The wool portion loves to full in water and will grab onto the yarn near it and not move around gracefully as it does with linen or cotton.
What is the look that you were aiming for?
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This reply was modified 2 years, 5 months ago by
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Hey JST,
Well you have done it again! Pushed my brain to max capacity! I absolutely loved the denting episode. Having said that, I would like to try one of the patterns, but wider. I would like to make a bathing suit wrap for my amazing sister to wear on her vacation while walking the beautiful beaches in Mexico with her hubby. This project will use my whole 36″ weaving width. So if I have 24 EPI in 36″ that is 864 total ends. However, in this case it is only half if I am denting, right? So I would use 432 total ends? Also, if I plan to sectional warp, would I warp a one inch section on the beam and then skip one or just warp the inner 18 sections of the beam? I hope that makes sense.
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Michelle, if you do your calculations using the sleying of the reed in mind that Jane shows on the bottom of page 1, you will see that each segment of 12 dents (whether with 2 ends or empty) is 12 ends – therefore each colour in your warping sequence is 24 dents or 2 inches. It should be easy for you to add extra groups of 24 ends (24 dents/2 inches) to your warping plan to make the wrap as wide as you want. As far as warping with a sectional – hopefully another member will pop in with an answer to that!
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