- This topic has 70 replies, 39 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 9 months ago by
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Jane, Thank you so much for your clear and logical teaching. I am learning so many techniques, and expanding on my limited weaving skills on my 2 year old Jane 40cm loom. As a novice weaver, I am feeling inspiration and a renewed confidence with your generous imparting of knowledge. Can’t wait to warp and weave beginning anew with your brilliant methods. Thank you.
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Don’t you need to take the lease sticks out before your final tightening at the front? Do the lease sticks cause any differences in the tension now that you are done tying and you take them out?
Thanks,
Susan -
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Great segment. Thank you Jane for sharing your methods. Can you share why you have chosen the Louet looms over others? Do you have a favorite traveling loom? Thanks much.
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Hi rlb353, did you get a chance to watch the episode ‘All about Looms’? It’s episode 8 of Season 1. Jane talks about her looms and I can say that her favourite traveling loom is the ‘Jane’ loom 😉
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Thanks Ginette. I just joined and am catching up with season 1 now. Only on episode 4. There is so much wonderful information in each episode that although I’m binge watching, I have to stop and allow processing time. Jane and her team of videographers are doing an amazing job. There is no guild nearby, so this opportunity for long-distance learning from Jane is amazing! Hugs to all.
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So you’re tieing granny knots? (i.e. both parts of the knot are tied left over right?)
Or are you really using square knots? (the second part is a mirror of the first)
Square knots are supposed to be more secure but granny may be easier to tie here and “good enough”
I think some people leave a loop for the 2nd half so it’s easier to untie, but it’s lumpier.-
roxie, the “surgeon’s knots” Jane is tying are like tying a half knot (like the beginning of tying your shoelace), but wrapping the end through one extra time for more surface area (friction).
Once you are happy with the tension, then you finish in a “square” knot. I don’t see any reason to leave a loop at that point, since you (hopefully) won’t need to untie these knots.. you won’t see them again until you take your project off the loom.
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The knots are very easy to untie with a metal knitting needle, if for instance you need the whole tie-up length for a fringe.
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Thanks Jane,
I’ve been weaving for a few years now, with my first ever ‘no help’, overly ambitious and way to long, table runner wining 2nd prise (1st prise not given) at a major country show here in Australia. But I have progressively forgotten everything after my first (lesson) weaving. It can take me weeks to put a warp on. As long or longer than it does to weave. And I have my own way – different each time. And forget about getting even similar lengths, when using a warping board. I found it easier to use 2 chairs in the end. But I get there eventually.
I listen and look in awe as my fellow weavers can manage a completed work or 2 in a week, when it’s taking me a month just to get ready for weaving, though I do like complicated, wide warps. And they are always surprised when I eventually bring a project in, maybe 6 months after starting.
You have given me so many hints on what I am doing wrong, and little tricks, to help along the way. I can’t wait to get home from this trip of a lifetime, which gave me time to sit back, relax and start to watch the videos, other spinners and weavers in my group are raving about.
I also have a stack of fine silk, in scanes. After trying to wind on the first one, they went into storage. Maybe I will pluck up the courage to make something beautiful with them now, in my usual overly ambitious way.
Looking forward to watching and learning so much more.
AnnS -
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Hi there, I’m wondering how the cloth beam is connected to the front rod here. I’m on a Harrisville loom that has grosgrain ribbons that are in rough shape and poorly located for tea towels (what I most enjoy making). Looks like there are texsolve cords but I’m unsure how to fasten them.
Thank you,
Lauren
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I am not understanding why my color and weave warp ties loosen right after I tie them on to the apron rod. I am doing exactly what you do – double tie and then go back and snug and final knot tie and they do not stay put. I am resorting to lashing them on tomorrow when I can find some string that is not stretchy and is smooth. This is the second warp of the color and weave I have done. The first one gave me trouble though I managed to weave one gamp and then things went downhill from there. I had to remove the warp and now have the second one on but this issue is making me crazy! All has gone really well with the second warp up until I tied the warp on and they just kept loosening. Lordy … what can I possibly be doing wrong?
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Allyson Marbut, I wonder if the problem with your knots might be <i>not</i> in the way you <i>tie</i> the knots but in the way you <i>tighten</i> them. Tightening (snugging) them requires lightly lifting the two tails and firmly pushing them away from you while tightening them by pulling the tails outwards.
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I am wondering why you lashed on the back beam and tied here. I was taught to tie on, but my tension was a nightmare. as soon as I got to the end of the warp, the beginning was loose. I have started in the middle and worked my way out, used surgeon’s knots. Nothing worked until I lashed on for the first time. Maybe lashing really didn’t make the difference. Maybe I just wound it on better this time.
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Hi, Deborah. Lashing on makes the end on your warp even and secure as it starts to build up on your warp beam. Once it is covered by layers of warp, it will stay that way until you start getting to the end of the warp. THEN, having it lashed is worth its weight in gold! I speak from experience 😏. The rod that is holding the warp starts to bend if it’s not secure, taking your even tension with it then the last bit of your warp becomes a nightmare. I’m sure the lashing made a difference as you approached the end of your warp. Your skills are building with the more warps you wind, giving warps you are happy with!
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So the Assymetry warp is on the loom ready to be threaded. I had to start all over. The first time it was winding on beautifully and then I didn’t watch it for a minute and suddenly there were knots and broken threads EVERYWHERE. So I had to cut it off and wind it again. (Hopefully I won’t do that too often or my weaving is going to be a VERY expensive habit!!) This time it seems fine. Will thread tomorrow I hope. -
So the Assymetry warp is on the loom ready to be threaded. I had to start all over. The first time it was winding on beautifully and then I didn’t watch it for a minute and suddenly there were knots and broken threads EVERYWHERE. So I had to cut it off and wind it again. (Hopefully I won’t do that too often or my weaving is going to be a VERY expensive habit!!) This time it seems fine. Will thread tomorrow I hope. -
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Leslie,
For me having crossed threads can be a nightmare having to undo the knot and trying to find which thread goes where after the fact. That’s where the lease sticks are crucial. I don’t take them out until I am sure I don’t have crossed threads. So when I have 2 threads in a dent one will come from the top and the other from the bottom. For more than 2, dent them in heddle order. That’s what I do. Hope this helps.
Debbie
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So, just to reiterate to make sure I have this. The first knot is the surgeon’s knot. Then you crank the ratcheting device to tighten the threads. Next, starting on the right you move steadily and secure all the knots. You are not undoing the surgeon’s knot, you are placing a square knot on top of it? Or another surgeon’s knot? Thank you for any help with this!
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Is there a benefit to using that extra rod instead of the rod that attaches to the cloth apron? Is it just so you have more options onto which to tie? Or is it better for tension? or something else?
thanks
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Hi Trish, I think Jane explains it on the video why but it does give me a few extra inches more on my warp so less loom loss when you add another rod, makes it easier for me to lash on and I don’t need to take out the wooden rod from the apron/cords to add my warp onto it. I guess it comes down to preference. If you’ve got another wooden or metal rod kicking around, I’d give it a try and see what you prefer.
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Sorry Ginette I was referring to lashing on…I typed too little in the question. I never take the rod out of the Leclerc apron – I have a rod lashed onto that apron…and now as I’m typing I’m realizing that this is like the extra wooden stick she lashes onto. My loom is 60inches wide so somehow I didn’t realize till I received your answer that the lashing bar is attached. Sorry for the error. 🙂
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I see Trish! For me, definitely much easier to tie on with an extra rod 🙂
Just editing to add, I have an extra rod on my AVL loom as it’s much easier to tie on (it has a apron cloth), while my David only has one but no cloth so that’s practical for tying on.
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Hi,
I keep trying to tie on the way Jane does, but I keep having the problem of the right 1/3 of the warp being looser than the rest. Any ideas about what I’m doing wrong?
Thanks,
Elizabeth
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Could the tension be different across your warp as you wind it? If your pegs are a bit loose, they might pull in as you build up your warp on your warping board or reel. Then you have to be aware of that as you are winding on. Because I warp by myself, I go between the back and front of my loom while winding on. I tug on the paper to make sure it’s tight and then go to the front and pull back on it to make sure the tension is even across the warp as I wind it on. I don’t have room to put my warp under a pile of books and drag them across – so my way is a bit slower but it gets the job done.
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Hi Jane, thank you for this great season, I’ve learned several things that have already improved my warping. I just finished tying on following your method and my apron rod is crooked. It was straight when I started. Now that I’ve tied on and tensioned, the rod is 6.25 inches from the reed on the right side where I started, and 5.375 inches on the left side.
I see that your rod is connected to the cloth beam in four places. My cloth beam has four holes but the apron rod is only connected to the two center holes. Could that be the problem? My warp is 22 inches wide and extends 6 inches beyond the apron rod cords which are 8 inches apart.-
Hi Ann, I think you need to untie your warp, secure your apron rod in a number of places right across it, including the ends. It needs to be strong and unmoveable so that you can evenly tie-on across the full 22 inches of your warp. Anything you use to tie-on now can remain in place for all future warps. Your rod must be bowing at the ends to give you such different measurements between your rod and the reed. Hopefully, securing it will help – keep us posted.
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When you tie on like Jane did, you have threads that you won’t be able to weave. Why Does Jane not do lashing on anymore? Weaving yarn is so expensive and I try not to waste any. I think lashing is easy to learn and less stressful. Do you agree?
I love all of the classes in season one. You have given so many wonderful ways to prepare the loom. Yea!!
Emily
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I’m having trouble getting even tension tying onto the front apron. It looked like my front rod was bent after I followed the method demonstrated so I untied everything to replace it and it isn’t bent! I will try again leaving off the end straps which apparently are doing the bending. Any other ideas before I give this a go? I’m trying to rescue a bad front to back warp so there are other issues I’m sure since I didn’t lash the back apron rod. Also there are 3 ends per dent on a 12 dent reed of 16/2 cotton if that matters (I tried the 8 dents per bout and it didn’t look too large – my first attempt was 2-inches per bout). I have really learned a lot watching Season 1. I’m trying to save a project I shouldn’t have attempted given my skill level……….
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Luckily I have an empty loom, so I can show you one way to secure your rod onto your “apron”. I have used Texsolv and put my rod through the holes in the Texsolv and then secured it at the two ends and the middle. The ends are important to secure, because under tension they could pull forward while the middle of the warp stays put. Also, you will definitely have problems with tension if you haven’t lashed your warp onto your secured rod. And – I’m not sure what you mean by “bout“ in the context you are using the word 🤔 If you are needing Texsolv – JST carries it in the shop.
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Thanks for the photo – that helps a lot. On the back of my loom, I tied on large groupings of warp ends (“bouts”) as they had been cut for warping front to back so I anticipate that is part of my problem with an unevenly tensioned warp. I’ll try adding the wood rod as you show to the front and back to keep the metal rod from bending and lash the back of the loom. For now, I pulled the end straps off the metal rod on the front of the loom, retied the smaller groupings of warp ends (8 dents per grouping with 3 ends in each dent). Seems to be a much better tension and the rod is no longer bending. I”ll share pics of my towels since the first is awful (pre-Season 1 viewing), the second is after my weaving technique was improved (post-Season 1 viewing) and the rest will show, hopefully, an improved warp tension by retying the front apron. I’ll order some Texsolv when I’m ready to try a mohair scarf!
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Hi again, Andrea. I think you need to go back to Season 1: Episodes 1 & 2. Pay close attention to when Jane shows us how wind and tie the cross in our warps. You’ll notice that the individual warp threads that travel back and forth on the warping board or beam are not secured as bouts below the cross. If you wound your warp into 2 different bouts and tied the warp at the cross end when you finished, this tie is removed when you put your warp on the back rod. That way the warp threads can travel in a straight line from the rod at the back to the rod at the front. I think that is one of the reasons your rod is bowing. It also would be a good idea to secure both rods evenly. Our warps all need to be on the same journey, going from a secure start at the back of the loom to being tied onto the front of the loom. Look forward to seeing your photos.
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Hi, I’m new to the online course. I have start watching the videos for dressing the looms. I was disappointed that I did not see how to dress the loom on a Leclerc Fanny everything is focus on a Louet loom. I was wondering if all the tricks and the courses are with the Louet loom we do use this in Québec. I did not lear much about how to dress my loom and that is the base of all. How will I go on with the rest if I dont understand how to dress the loom. Can you help me please, thank you.
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Hi Lynda,
Have a look at Episode 2.2 – Dressing Your Loom Back to Front – Warping a Counter-balanced Loom, short silk warp. Jane dresses the loom on her Fanny loom which will help you.
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My only wish is that you had covered tying up the treadles in your course. you covered so well the different room types and heddles and reads and all the rest of the setting up of the lane except for this one final piece I wish you could add that
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Hi Liz – it would be a nightmare to try to have a video on tying up the treadles. There are so many different makes and styles of looms out there. Once you learn all there is to know about your loom , then tying up the treadles for Plain Weave (tieup 13 and 24 or 2/2 Twill (tieup 12, 23, 34, 41) will come naturally.
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Hello! I am having problems with my front lease stick bowing in the middle after tying my warp on the loom. I have replaced the string attaching the lease stick to the front rod with texsolv and made sure that the lease stick is flat rather than on edge when I tie on the warp. Yet the lease stick still bows. Arrgh. This also happens at the back of the loom. Should I purchase steel rods to replace the lease sticks? I have a 32” Ashford table loom.
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The Ashford table looms use lease sticks for tying on, not metal rods. In fact, they do not come with metal rods. So, there are four lease sticks with the loom kit. Two for the cross, and one each to attach the warp at back and front. The problem is the lease sticks become bowed as I roll the warp on the back beam, and also as I tie the warp onto the front beam. I believe the bowing is causing tension problems. Do you have any suggestions? Does it matter if the lease sticks are bowed?
And thanks so much for responding so quickly. I have been completely absorbed with the first two seasons. I have completed the first three projects. The color and weave is my favorite, although Parrot certainly is beautiful. I purchased the full set of 8/2 cotton from you guys and am constantly dreaming of future projects. The color lessons blew me away ( that’s why I bought the all the colors). I ended up subscribing to four magazines, and bought a sketchpad and colored pencils. JST is the best thing that’s happened to my weaving. Bless you for keeping the yearly guild price affordable.
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Hi Bonnie,
Do you do a lashing at the back of the loom before you wind on the warp? That will help reduce any bowing back there.
As for the front, when you’re tying all your bouts of warp, that should not bow your front stick. How is the tension when it’s all tied up? Bowing in the front may be that it’s too tight.. just some thoughts
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I think of mirror as a warp that has crosses at both ends. Then you fold it in half and use the both crosses for your tie on. The idea is to have the one side reflect the second side.
For ex. If you have warp one yellow edging when folded in half the yellow edging will appear on both edges. But you could explain how to handle the warping. -
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I noticed during the tie-on that the threads are not all the same length. Kinda surprised me after all the attention to keeping them the same length and on tension.
How much difference between thread lengths at tie-on is too much?
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It’s normal Patricia, to have different lengths of tie-on. Sometimes it can be the difference in tension between the time you start winding the warp and finishing. If you only see a couple of inches in the length on your tie-up ends, I’d just do a good job of tying on, including walking your hand across the warp to make sure your tension feels even. Then when you are happy with it, doing your final knots across your warp in one go, as Jane demonstrates.
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Thank you so much for your Online Course. I’ve learned so much in the first 2 lessons! They alone have made my subscription worthwhile. I started weaving about 40 years ago. Then after about 20 years of less and less weaving, set my equipment aside because of family and work commitments. I’ve been weaving again for about 4 years and am happy I kept my equipment and was able to do that. But you have taught me so many ways to make the process more enjoyable and easy on my body that I know I should be able to continue weaving for a long time. I’m looking forward to working through all the upcoming lessons in Season 1 over the next couple months, and then moving on to the following Seasons.
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Hi Jane,
Im so impressed with the course so far.
I’ve been weaving for a little over 12 months and have 10 warps under my belt so far.
No more warp tantrums for me:)
Fortunately I stumbled onto a youtube clip warping a loom ( it was You!!!!!) and started pretty much in a good place, getting better with each warp.
I ‘ve already gathered two looms an old Glimakra 110 cm countermarch loom and now a Berga Savonia 150cm countermarche with a sectional beam so I still have to navigate that with getting the warp on easily.
Cant wait to get stuck into season 2.
Cheers
Kerrie
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Hi!
Great classes so far. I bought my first two looms over 20 years ago and wove avidly for a while, but then life circumstances interfered and I had to let my fiber crafts go for many years just to survive. Now retired, I ran across my table loom last year while cleaning and of course, had to take it out, clean it up, and put on a warp. What a wonderfully sweet reminder of my lost love! I was, however, very rusty and had tons of questions.
I’d run across Jane’s videos on YouTube and found them really helpful, so it wasn’t long before I found her website and signed up for class. I. Am. Learning. So. Much!! What a gentle and knowledgeable teacher! I love the warp winding and warping techniques presented. It’s especially helpful for me to know the reasons why we do certain things in weaving as it’s helped me tweak things to my particular loom type and space constraints. Today I beamed a new warp using a pile of books as a tensioning device. I was floored at the wonderful difference it made! So, thank you, Jane, and to all of the key masters, for putting these classes together and offering support during the learning process. I can already see improvements in my weavings. I’m looking forward to continuing with class and working on all of the wonderful projects.
Cheers!!
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2.6 – Dressing Your Loom Back to Front
I have a loom which has a warpbeam for sectional warping. Do I have to remove the “pins” on this warpbeam before I can warp as shown in 2.6 or should I try to spread the warp evenly between the “pins”?
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Hi Heidi,
I’ve done it without removing the ‘pins’ on the sectional warp beam. The difference will be that you are not using paper as a separator and you have to watch to make sure that the threads don’t get caught on top of the pins while you are winding on. If the pins are removable and you don’t plan on using the sectional as is, then I’d eventually remove them. Otherwise, just go ahead and try a small warp first.
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