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I’m working on the online guild samples for season 2. I have an 8 dent and a 6 dent reed that are wide enough for the projects and a 12 dent that is a tad bit too narrow for the projects. For the asymmetrical sample I used my 8 dent reed to sley 18 epi but I really didnt like the track marks I got and my stripes in the warp came out slightly different widths depending on how the sleying fell on each stripe.
Do you think I should use the 6 dent reed or purchase a wider 12 dent reed to sley the projects for 18 epi or will I still have weird sley marks in all my projects?
PS: the tracking marks did not wash out 🙁
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Hi Jane, I am using 8/4 cotton and making the sequences slightly smaller. Setting at 12 epi, what would be the ppi? Thank you.
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I LOVED watching this episode. I can hardly wait to figure out colours and get going on it. Watching the problem solving in action was most helpful too!
I have been considering adding the zinger colour to the outer borders as well, just to close off the squares on the margins. I wonder if that would show up against the contrast too much and make for a sloppy looking edge. Thinking through that also made me realise how easy it would be to widen the entire project with just another repeat in each square, and 2 more zinger threads (if wanted) in each border.
The possibilities on this one are endless. Thank you for such a wonderful episode.
Tara
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Winding this warp has been an exercise in frustration. Jane makes it look so easy and efficient. Unfortunately that has not been my experience. I think that for me it would have been quicker to not wind holding multiple threads. Now I’m dreading threading with such a mixed up warp.
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Jane – as I watched you advance the warp again and again throughout that 1 1/2 hour of weaving, I noticed that you never “feel” the warp to see if the warp tension is the same as it was before you advanced the warp. What is your secret? What do you look at? How did you maintain that consistent tension? Thanks! Isabelle
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Another tension-related question: You do not ease the tension to measure for squareness: I got the sense that a square on the loom under tension will give you a square after the sample is washed and pressed. I guess you know that from experience? Is it loom-dependent? Thanks. Isabelle
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Hi Isabelle, Jane goes through this in one of the upcoming episodes, watch for it in the Plaid sample!
Ginette-
Ginette, I am new here. I also find that very unsettling. I have always heard otherwise and generally try to weave a rectangle hoping for a square.
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Hi Juliette, welcome to JST online guild! The best way to do this would be for you to try both ways when you sample. That said, if the technique you’re doing works and you’re getting a square, I’d keep doing it. I found for my weaving, I measure (more eye it) to a square and it works for me. I don’t usually have my warp tension super tight though. Hope this helps 🙂
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I am not ready to warp this yet but I am wondering if I only have one cone of blue and one of white do I measure it out before hand to wind multiple lengths of it? I don’t see how this would be time saving. Thanks. Ruth
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July and I have started this gamp… love the challenge.
I am finding that I am NOT grabbing my end thread on each side as I weave. Seems to be random and I don’t think I need a Selvedge thread? Wonder what is happening…I am only the beginning of this project ..? suggestions as I try to figure out what is happening… the threads are hanging out there on the ends, not getting captured as I weave … plain weave? not twill. I don’t see a missing sequence in my threading.
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Hi Jane,
I am just starting to make my warp for this lesson. I am doing it in the colors you suggest because I actually had them! Warping with several threads has been frustrating getting tangle around each other is the major problem. One third done but I think I’ll just do the rest in two thread at one time, I find it easier to manage. Hopeing to get this on the loom before my back surgery next month. I want to thank you for the wonderful guild, I talk about you all the time and suggest to new and old weavers that they cannot go wrong by joining your guild. You are a wonderful teacher and inspiration!
Rose -
I am about to put this warp on my loom, and a little bit of maths showed me that I cannot open the warp to 12 inches, as my maximum weaving width is only 24 in wide. The widest I can go is 15 inches. So I am wondering what to use for a weft, 5/2 cotton or bouclé which would be a bit bulky but I will find out. My question is has anybody woven a sample, not necessarily this one, at 15 ppi and what was your favorite weft?
P.S.: I ordered a David loom, but it could be months until I get it. I can hardly wait….-
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Hi, Gabi. I’ve used bouclé and 8/4 cotton purchased from JST on this warp at 15 epi. I’ve also used it at 16 epi. I don’t know the weight of the bouclé you have access to. They can differ. Have you wrapped your ruler to see what might work with the yarns you have and the reeds you have? Now might be the time to rewatch Season 1: Episode 4.1 – Let’s Have a Little Chat About Sett. You might have to do a bit more experimentation because you have access to different yarns in Europe than we do in North America. I look forward to seeing what you decide. Congratulations on your new David!
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Hi! On the Sample #2 Colour & Weave Gamp, Page 2, under Colour sequence on page 2, the 7th line down says, “48 DDDD/LLLL – warping with two ends in your hand” Unclear on what this means – do I hold four darks together and four lights together? Or…?
I feel clear about “48 D/L warping with two ends in your hand”, “44 DD/LL with four ends in your hand”, and even “50 D/L/DD/L with five ends in your hand”, but the above has me stumped.
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Hi Lynn, For the section with DDDD/LLLL you do not hold 1 dark and 1 light. In the episode I discuss how you can do this easily by starting with 2 D in your hand for just the first set, then you break off and work with 4 ends. You will have 2 dark and 2 light in your hand and then you warp the rest of the section that way and at the very end you will have 2 more light to finish the section. When you thread the heddles from the lease sticks you will be able to thread your first 2 dark and then take 2 dark from the next section on the lease sticks. That will leave 2 light on the lease sticks which you thread and then take two light from the next section finishing off your 4 light…etc. etc. etc. Watch the episode again on that gamp because I go over it on the black board.
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Are you asking what is used to measure the length of a shawl or a towel, for example? A lot of us pin a tape measure starting at the hemstitching or at the beginning of the towel. I use two straight pins about an inch apart to secure the tape measure. When the bottom pin is about to cross the cloth beam, I just move it up ahead of the remaining pin. They jump like that all the way until the tape measure tells me I’m finished. Hope this helps.
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At the very beginning of 2.4.2 Jane shows her warp with white yarn already in the warp seeming to stabilize the spacing of the warp before she begins to weave. Can you explain what I’m seeing?
Thank you,
Judy Cz-
Hi Judy, that is her hemstitching that she did in white and starts her weaving with the blue. The hemstitching was done just before we started filming to get us right into this episode so we didn’t have to film hemstitching again. If you need to review hemstitching, you can find it in Season 1 Episode 5.3
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Hi Judy, typically, when starting to weave on a new warp, you weave a header to align your newly tied threads to your apron rod and then weave 2 weft shots for the hemming and hemstitch these last 2 then weave. As Jane had already been weaving on this warp before we filmed, she left some unwoven section for fringes for the samples, then threw 2 weft shots in white and hemstitched those 2. Then she was ready to go.
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Silly question, I am sure, but what happens to that header part once the hemstitching goes in after it and your piece is woven and off the loom. Does it stay in as part of the piece or does it get taken out?
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I usually leave a wee gap between the header and my hemstitching. If you are weaving a scarf, the header can be removed when you take it off the loom and used that section of warp in your fringe. Your header can be a bit of yarn on a bobbin you want to empty – anything that gets your warp properly spaced out and ready to roll!
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Good morning. I am working my way through the 2nd project in season 2. I have a question concerning the treading of the heddles. Do you treat each section separately in that The divider always goes into shaft 1,2,3,and 4?
If the number of treads in the section divide by 4 and you start with 1, then the divider color will line up perfectly. The order is 1st in 1,2nd in 2 etc. If the number of threads is 45 then you end with 1 on the last thread of that section and the color divider is going to start with the 2nd shaft and will go 2,3,4,1. ( okay that works) But the next section is not going to start on the first shaft. Will it matter in the weave? Ive looked at season 1 and have not seen reference. Do I start over with the 1st shaft in each section or just continuously thread in order?-
With a Plain Weave draft – which this is – you thread your heddles 1,2,3,4 all the way across the loom. You need to do that to maintain the Plain Weave structure. The colour of your warp thread is what gives you your design in your cloth. It doesn’t matter which shaft the new pattern or your section divider starts on, just thread consistently in the order for Plain Weave – 1,2,3,4. Enjoy! It’s an amazing gamp to own and so much fun to weave.
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Dear Jane,
I’m new to the guild, having joined this summer. I’ve been working my way through the episodes. The warping and weaving techniques in Season 1 have helped build my confidence. Last night I finished the Color and Weave gamp. WOW!!!! There are several little blocks calling to me. You were right! What a fun adventure. Thank you for sharing your expertise. Thank you, too, for the encouragement to draw our projects, explore color and play. With the towels, I played with 2/2 twill to see how it would react with the threading. Thank you!!!
Carrie, from central Oregon -
I have a question unrelated to the actual weaving in this wonderful episode. I too, have a David loom, and my loom also makes that annoying squeaking when I treadle. Do you have a solution?
BTW I have gained such courage watching you “play”- what a joy!
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Have you checked out the Knowledge Base on the JST website, Kathleen? You’ll find a lot of Q&As about the Louet David (plus so much more) there. For squeaky lamms – you’ll find this Squeaky lamms on my David
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How do you remember later which yarns etc you have used? Write it down as you go? And also how do I know when there’s a reply to my comment other than checking back?
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Hi Emma, that’s the best way I found was to write it down in my book right away! I’ve spent so much time looking through bits of paper with my notes…. still do and need to transfer them into the book 🙂
The best place to write comments and ask questions is on the Forum actually. There, all the members can see it and can help with replies, suggestions & comments. The comments here below the videos has it’s limitations and members only see them when they view that video or you have to go back and check for an answer. That said, we do monitor these here every day. We may not get to them right away, but we’ll try our best to get to them all 🙂
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Things I learned from the Color and Weave Gamp: 1. I was happily surprised that the ends sorted themselves out on the loom, without too much twisting.
2. I took the wrong path when warping, with 5 ends, and noticed after finishing the last section; but remembered a Charlotte story from an upcoming episode. So I carefully wound off onto an empty tube until I got to the spot, then re-did it. Fortunately I had mistakenly taken a longer path instead of a shorter one, so I didn’t have to waste much yarn.3. Opened up the set, wove a balanced fabric, then put it in the washer with the rest of the yardage. Predictably, it shrank. So I cut armholes and made it a baby vest for the granddaughter.
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Things I learned from the Color and Weave Gamp: 1. I was happily surprised that the ends sorted themselves out on the loom, without too much twisting.
2. I took the wrong path when warping, with 5 ends, and noticed after finishing the last section; but remembered a Charlotte story from an upcoming episode. So I carefully wound off onto an empty tube until I got to the spot, then re-did it. Fortunately I had mistakenly taken a longer path instead of a shorter one, so I didn’t have to waste much yarn.3. Opened up the set, wove a balanced fabric, then put it in the washer with the rest of the yardage. Predictably, it shrank. So I cut armholes and made it a baby vest for the granddaughter.
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Hi Hetty, I wish you I could give you an easy answer. I know that the yarns available for weavers in Europe are sometimes quite different from those available to us in North America. Maybe there is an Online Guild member, who lives in Europe, who can give you an answer closer to what you want to know than I can 🙁
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I’m loving warping with multiple threads in my hand. That said, I’ve run into a question.
If I’m warping 44 ends of DD/LL then that means I go around my warping pegs 11 times.
With the odd number I end up at the cross for my end. Should I break them there and start the yellow at the top of my cross? I’m a complete beginner, but in Asymmetry and design sample, I always ended one color at the bottom of the warping board and switched to a new color there….
Or
Should I add 4 ends making it 48 threads, so that I can do 12 times around the pegs and end at the bottom?
Thanks so much!
Danielle
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Is there a list available anywhere of all the yarns used in the samples. I find that during the videos Jane is trying things out with different weighted yarns, and boucle and linen etc. As a new weaver my stash is not that large and varied so I don’t have a lot of extra on hand to try out. I would love to know in advance what I should have on hand so I can try all of these variations out.
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Jane only uses yarns that she is totally comfortable with and knows inside out. You can check out her Master Sett Chart to see the yarns she uses (and sells). By looking at that chart you can see, for instance, that she uses 30/2 silk with 16/2 cotton and 20/2 silk with 8/2 cotton. I hope this helps.
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I’ve just finished beaming. Once again it was so much easier than everything I’ve done in the past. One problems though — and it happened with Sample #1 as well. When I’ve put the warp on the warping rod I’ve had it back to front and so my DLDL is on the wrong side (it will be on the left of the fabric rather than the right). I know this doesn’t “matter” but it’s annoying. Any suggestions how I can avoid this problem in the future??? I suppose I could tie a bright coloured thread around the first bout when I start winding the warp and I’d know that that bit has to go on first.
My husband (who has Alzheimer’s disease) enjoys “holding the reins” for me while I’m winding on, although I have to keep telling him not to try to turn the horse around by pulling harder on one side than the other. He enjoys watching Jane’s videos too. LOL. I think he finds the rhythm of the shuttle soothing.
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The way I ensure that I don’t put my warp on the loom backwards is this: When I put the first loop onto the first post, I attach a small light-colored yarn piece to the loop. When I tie my last loop onto a peg, I attach a small dark-colored yarn piece to that loop. Then at the loom when I am attaching the warp to the rod that attaches to the back apron rod, I always know which end loop is which and where it should go on the rod. I may use different marker yarns each time, but I always know that my lighter yarn marks the beginning of the warp and my darker yarn marks the end of my warp.
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Oh dear. I didn’t understand that bit either and decided it meant to hold 1 dark and 1 light and weave 4 of them for the 8 threads. I thought it would clarify itself when I get to the threading. Hopefully I will be able to grab the 4 darks from the 4 groups of 2 and then the 4 lights and they won’t get confused in the weaving. If I grab a dark and then skip 3 heddles and thread the white and then grab a dark and go back and thread the next dark heddle and go backwards and forwards like that over the 8 heddles it should work I think. I probably need to be careful I don’t cross them over in different directions.
If I can’t do that then I can make more Log Cabin I suppose. Any advice???
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Help!!! I’ve done my (8/2 cotton) gamp and also enough for a pillow cover @ 18epi. And now I have re-sleyed at 12epi. I have some 3ply wool that I would normally sley at 8epi for plain weave. I was thinking of using that to create a shawl. Do you think that will work? If I weave it at 12ppi? Or would you do something else? Should I just use the cotton at 12ppi or will that be too flimsy. I have about 4 yards of warp left.
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Here are my samples for the color and weave gamp. I used a shorter warp because the goal was to use up some of my stash. In fact, my learning from this exercise is to never ignore or avoid a color just because I didn’t like it!
I had purchased some cottolin on sale which was a mint green. I didn’t like it! I had some grey cottolin and used these for this lesson along with some 8/2 orange from the asymmetry lesson. They wove beautifully together and worked well to show the detail desired. The shawl weft also were leftover Zephyr wool/silk in blues and greens that also changed the nature of the mint and produced a very soft, drapey cloth.
My weaving is improving and I continue to enjoy playing at the loom.
Kathy Lee, weaver in training.
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Here are my samples for the color and weave gamp. I used a shorter warp because the goal was to use up some of my stash. In fact, my learning from this exercise is to never ignore or avoid a color just because I didn’t like it!
I had purchased some cottolin on sale which was a mint green. I didn’t like it! I had some grey cottolin and used these for this lesson along with some 8/2 orange from the asymmetry lesson. They wove beautifully together and worked well to show the detail desired. The shawl weft also were leftover Zephyr wool/silk in blues and greens that also changed the nature of the mint and produced a very soft, drapey cloth.
My weaving is improving and I continue to enjoy playing at the loom.
Kathy Lee, weaver in training.
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So, I totally messed up trying to create this warp, I counted the DL as 1 instead of 2 ends, and discovered this at the point of the 48 DDDD/LLLL already wound . How can I salvage this warp? Maybe I can just add some apricot threads in between? I kept thinking, this sure does seem like a lot of winding… help
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I changed up the colours on this warp, using a lime green and a navy with pink dividers, and wove tea towels. The first 2 I just did in plain weave using lime green and then the second in navy, because they were the first proper bit of weaving I’d done on a shaft loom, and the first time ‘d ever woven with cotton. Then I did the gamp as instructed (!) with some plain weave on either end to frame the square patterned section. Then I did the same again but swapped to using turquoise and yellow instead of the lime and navy, with white as the sections at the end.
After that I did a towel with division of space in 4, using blocks of navy, turquoise, lime and yellow. Then to finish off the warp I did one using some hand dyed cotton that I sprinkle dyed with flecks of Procion dye in lime, pink, navy and turquoise, with a Fibonacci sequence of pink dividing stripes.
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I’ve just finished winding the warp for this gamp. It will be the first project on my brand new David! I’m warping back to front and using a metal rod to secure the cross. There were a couple of sections, however, where my warp ended at the top of the cross, so there’s no “loop” to secure that last bundle of warp threads. I’m assuming I should just tie those threads to the rod, but wanted to be sure that’s the method that makes the most sense. So excited to get started! Thanks!
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So I errored when I was winding the center DDDD/LLLL. I didn’t wind 2 dark before and 2 light after. Can I sneak these in when warping and eliminate extra warp threads later? Or should I just warp as I have wound it and accept that that center section is going to be wonky?
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I just finished making this gamp as a throw blanket on 8/4 cotton as Jane suggested. I am delighted with it. I am spending the lockdown in Ontario learning to weave on an old floor loom. Janes videos have been so helpful. I am learning so much and watching her videos is like visiting with a an old friend, a very knowledgeable friend. Thanks so much!
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Hi – I’m working on the color and weave gamp and have a question regarding the instructions under Weaving Sequence. I’m currently weaving the warp sequence as the weft sequence. The instructions then say, “weave a piece in navy and a piece in white”. What does that mean?
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I have finished my sample of the color and weave. My biggest hurdle so far is my tension. It seems no matter what I try I have too much tow in at the selvages. How much should be normal? In the reed its 19.25″ and on the loom under tension it is 17.25″ I am getting a bit of a smile from side to side and I have been going slowly and leaving a large angle but the bigger it gets the more loops I have on the top of the fabric. Any words of wisdom from anyone? I don’t think I have found that sweet spot yet either.
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Hi Sandra,
Yes, I am using her mantra and I guess its hard to teach an old dog new tricks! Jane is a phenomenal teacher! I wish I had found her years ago when I first started weaving and was watching YouTube video’s. I think I had my tension on my warp too tight for one thing. The smile has lessened and I finally have the hang of holding the shuttle on this second warp. I had some smaller shuttles I was using that kept catching threads and that was driving me crazy. Needless to say I am using up the rest of this warp as mostly getting into some kind of a grove. I just love this online guild and I am going to keep on weaving through all the samples and hopefully by the end of this years worth of lessons I will have a better handle on the tension both setting up the warp and weaving. Thanks Sandra-
You are welcome, Julie! It does take patience and practice to build and maintain a skill set that helps you become a better weaver! If I’ve had a period where I haven’t been able to weave, it takes me a wee bit of time to get back to previously fine tuned habits. You are doing it the way that Jane hoped new weavers would do – one step and one skill at a time, building on what you have learned in the previous lessons. It will be great to follow your progress.
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