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Hi Jane. Sorry but I am completely lost by your explanation of using the lease sticks as a solution for sorting the middle 8 warp section of the gamp. Please can you help. No doubt I’ve misunderstood but can’t see where.
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Hi Sue,
It really has to do with making that section of the warp. So you don’t have to put on 4 of one colour and then break it and then do 4 of the next and break and change etc. If you put on 2 of one colour and then break it and tie on 4 (2 of each colour) you can then just make that section with 4 threads in your hand and not have all that stopping and starting while making the warp. The lease stick illustration is how it will look when it is on the lease sticks and to take them off the lease sticks for threading.
Hope this makes sense.
Let me know,
Jane-
Hi,
Are we talking solely about the middle section – dddd,llll? But you are talking about 6 threads, or do you put on 2 of the other colour you didn’t use at the beginning to finish off that middle section?
I can feel the clouds lifting a bit! What still confuses me is the actual illustration with 20 threads. Otherwise it looks wonderful. Went out and took photos of Mother’s Day bouquets in a local shop. Incredible colours!Thanks so much
Sue
Sent from my iPad-
Hi Sue,
Yes…at the end of that section we add another 2 of whatever colour we end on, so there are four. It really is just to help with the warping. I do make the warp all in one go. Warping with 2 ends in my hand for DL, then the divider, then 4 ends in my hand for DDLL, then the divider, Then 3 ends etc. etc.
It is just a system to make the center section faster in the warping rather than all the cutting and tying every 4 ends of D and L. Imagine how tedious it would be to have to make a 45” warp with DDDD/LLLL if you were cutting and tying every 4 warp ends.Watch it again and see if it makes sense.
Cheers,
Jane
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Hi Jane. I’m so happy to know what a “gamp” is. I don’t understand the color sequence of 48 dddd/llll warping with two ends in you hand. Is that to mean 4 ends between two fingers. This is a real learning curve for me. Thankfully I can go back and rewatch the videos. Thanks for all you do. Betty
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Question, why do we warp with two ends in our hands when doing dddd/llll? (is says so on page two, sample two).
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That was my question. I was confused but I think she I intends for us to have 8 ends. Four between two fingers.
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No I don’t want you to warp with 8 ends in your hand. It won’t make the best warp. What you do want is 4 dark/ 4 light threaded in the heddles. There are 3 ways this can be achieved. Lets look at the options.
1. You could hold one end in your hand and wind on 4 dark, then break it and tie on the light and warp 4 more threads and go through that all the way across the section. It will take the longest time.
2. You could hold 2 dark in your hand and go up and down and you would have 4 dark, then break it and tie on the 2 light and go up and down. It would be faster than #1 but would still be a lot of starting and stopping, breaking and tying.
As I said in the video that is how I did it forever before Charlotte figured out an easier way. The pattern was written before we filmed this part.
#3 is what I describe in the video. This is the fastest and easiest way to do it..GO back and watch it again and I”m sure it will make sense.
One last thing that maybe you don’t understand….
If you don’t put the first two on by themselves you won’t have 4 of one colour. If you just start with 2 light and 2 dark in your hand, you won’t have 4 of one colour for your first stripe.
I don’t think I can explain it any better than that. You need to try it for yourself and you can do it however you want. 🙂
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Hi Ellen, there were a few blankets last year, can you tell us which episode and about the time in the video that you saw it?
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Oh yes, the large Colour & Weave gamp throw. Ok that one is done in 4/8 cotton, sett at 12 epi. It’s gorgeous!
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I have now completed the gamp sample and putting into practice how Jane warped DDDD/LLLL section made sense in practice. I did find it difficult to get my head around this process when she first described it. Loved weaving it, my brain is buzzing with ideas.
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I’ve just started warping the gamp and have some questions. My head tells me that the first DL section has 2 times 48 threads in it for a total of 96. The second would have 44 times 4 ends for a total of 196. Obviously this is not right since the total number of ends is 348. What am I doing wrong?
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Hi Susan, if you look at the draft for the Colour & Weave Gamp, you’ll see that Jane has listed the complete warp colour sequence on the left side of page 2. Sometimes it is hard to get your head around new things and in this case, all you need to do is relax and wind your warp the way Jane has set out – so in the examples that you use – in the D/L section you have 24 of dark and 24 of light, giving you a total of 48 threads before you change to Apricot. The same happens in the second section you refer to – wind 2 dark then 2 light until you have a total of 44 threads in that section of the warp. Have fun – Colour and Weave is totally addictive!
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Okay, today in the mail, I received a MacKenzie-Childs catalog. Thinking back to this segment, I start looking at pictures with a new eye. Now. there is are 12 pages of a sketch book with bits I tore out of the catalog attached. Now, I am going to sit down and design some towels! I am having such a good time—–THANK YOU so much for sharing your knowledge with us all!
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Regarding the center section of DDDD/LLLL, my confusion came when I read on the draft: “warping with two ends in your hands”. I imagine that the wording on the draft will be changed to reflect the new method described in the video. If I understand it correctly, the center section could be described this way:
“wind two ends DD, followed by warping with 4 ends in your hand of DDLL, ending with 2 ends LL”
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Forgive me if I am completely confused here, but if I wind a warp with threads in varying groups of two, three, four, etc. to achieve a pattern, won’t this create an issue when I thread the raddle and re-assemble threads into DIFFERENT groupings before the wind-on? I remember hearing somewhere that one should never separate warped groups at the raddle?!
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Hi Ed, when you wind on, keep them together as you have made your warp as you don’t want to seperate them. When you thread them through the heddles, that’s when you’ll be grabbing them for the pattern
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I agree that the raddle math can be challenging with multiple groups of threads wound together. I generally calculate the spacing of my warp ends in the Spring raddle, allowing for the skipped dent every four inches. With this warp however, I used my eye, maintaining the groups as held together when winding, and the halfway point in the raddle. When winding multiple sequences of varying numbers of ends, is there a more accurate method to calculating the spacing in the raddle than the one I used?
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Thanks for your reply Ginette. It helps to know that there are different ways of spreading the warp. I hear Jane saying “there are more ways…try them all, and do what is right for you”! A Janeism that has made the online guild one of my best weaving investments to date.
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Well I was so happy, finally I got my game started, did a couple of inches and then looked closer, dang it I missed a number 2 heddle in my threading on the number 3 strip. Had to think about it for awhile and figured out how it fix it so I’ll work on that part tomorrow! Patience is a virtue!!!!
Wish me luck.
Libby -
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Well this warping has turned into “one of those warps”. Lots of challenges along the way. I decided to add a few repeats in each of the sections to make the warp wider. The math got the best of me. But I finally got it on the loom (so love Jane’s warping techniques!) using my newly installed warping trapeze. Now to weave. Just keep learning, trouble shooting, and swearing….gotta love it.
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Hi, I can’t access the videos this morning. All I get is a blurred picture and no start arrow. Is this my iPad or you?
Karen -
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Since I’ve got something else on my 8 shaft loom and since this is all PW, i could easily make this game on a rigid heddle, right?
Love your videos and your dddd/LLLL is brilliant.
Thanks-
You certainly could! What width of a rigid heddle loom do you have? You may not be able to open up the sett to go from 18 epi to 12 epi, depending on it’s width. I know some others were thinking in terms of rigid heddles for their samples – you might get more input to your question on the Online Guild Forum.
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Finally finished the towels and the finishing. Due to the problems I had while winding the warp I ended up with only 36 squares but OMG I loved doing this Gamp. And then I had so much fun playing with the various repetitions. Now I need to work on getting the same length of weaving fir each piece.
Where do I post pix? -
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I know I am a little late but I got the warp made, 10 yards, dressed the loom and started weaving yesterday. Two things if I were to repeat in the future. 1) With the apricot zingers, I would ensure all the sections started and finished with a navy end(s) and 2) I would make each section the same number of ends. When weaving the sample, I used the centre section to weave to square to compensate for the tension on the loom and while doing so realize the sections were not the same and had to switch. Should of known this if I had been paying attention during warping, duh. Love the project and the guild.
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I am threading the warp. I am in the DDL section and always finish on 2 not 4. Is this a problem for threading the rest of the warp? I thought that the apricot would always be 1,2,3,4. I am feeling impatient to continue as I have some time but I will go back to hemming my linen dish clothes. Thanks.
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I want to make the pattern, DDDL/DL, proportionally larger (maybe twice the size) and more dramatic for a queen size blanket. I have converted from 4 shafts/2 treadles to 4S/4T to help spread out heddles, but that didn’t help. I have spent more time trying to research and figure it out than it will take to weave, I’m sure. I have 10/2 cotton in black and white and 8S loom. How do I get the same pattern larger without using larger yarn, please? My daughter and SIL choose this pattern from the Gamp and after a year of discussions, patterns suggestions, photos, Fiberworks drawdowns, etc., I don’t want to rock the boat now.
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Hi, can anyone tell me how much yarn is actually required for this project (ballpark)? I don’t see any guide in the PDF, and I have to buy the yarn for this. I’d rather not overpurchase. I’m assuming a 6 yd warp. Thank you.
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You can divide your warp into the different colours. For instance, the first colour and weave graphic requires 48 threads – 24 blue and 24 white. If you add up the total ends of your three colours and multiply it by the length of your warp, you’ll know how many yards you need for your warp. Double that amount to include your weft. “Always allow more than less” is something you’ll hear Jane saying. JST carries the 8/2 cotton (also known as 2/8 cotton) in 1/2 lb cones with 1,680 yds/cone (3,360 yds/lb). If you look ahead at the other projects in Season 2, you’ll see that what you don’t use on Colour and Weave could be used on other upcoming projects. Have you reviewed Season 1: Episode 5 – Project Planning 101, Putting it all together? That would be a good one for you to watch again to understand the process of working out the amounts of yarn needed in your warps. By the way, Jane has added extra yarn to the kit in her shop for this one. This is so weavers can practise winding up to 4 threads at a time, should they want to.
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I’m ready to cry. I do not understand how many sets of 4 threads I should be winding for section two of the warp (or any part, really). You want 44 DD/LL. Does that mean 11 sets of 4 threads? Or 22? I count the top right of my cross, so generally I wrap half the number of threads required. But the last section was 2 threads at a time, and only 12 pairs to get 24 threads. I think you want 11 sets, based on how to evenly divide numbers in each of the warp sections.
Given how poorly winding 4 threads in my hand at once is going (I can’t keep them straight, and they keep getting twisted in my shoebox), I’m fairly certain I will be wrapping no more than 2 at a time for the rest of the warp. What a disaster.
I appreciate your direction.
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Hi there,
The number of threads (44) is the total of threads for that section, so for (44) DD/LL you’ll have 22 darks and 22 lights. I know it can be challenging the first time you try and thread with more than 2 threads in your hand but this gamp will need you to try it so don’t despair, it will be so rewarding when you weave it! When you count your threads on the warping board, count the 44 DD/LL by 2s. The next section, you’ll need to use 3 threads when warping for a total of 45 threads so you’ll be going up and down 15 times in total and count by 3s. As for the tangling in the show box, if possible, move the show box a bit further away from you to help them stay separated and make sure your hand is not turning. I try and keep my hand facing one direction when going up and down the board. Did you get a chance to review episode 1.3 Warping with multiple threads in your hand?
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Am I overthinking this? I’m winding on the colour and weave gamp – and having a devil of a time with getting my threads to spool out/off of the cones in the shoebox. But I’m dealing with that. What has me stumped is how many circuits of the warping board are needed when holding 4 and desiring 44 – that means 11 wraps and I wind up tying on the apricot thread up at the “top”, i.e. at the cross end. Is that right?? I note that the next c&w section is 45 with 3 in hand which equals 15 wraps (another odd number) so the next apricot threads will be tied on at the “bottom”. Something tells me it doesn’t really matter which end I tie on the next thread group, but I’d like to hear that confirmed. Say “Amen”, somebody 😉
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Hi Karen, it’s the Parrot Sample – More about Fibonacci – Episode 5 – 1. at about the 28 minute mark. Have you had a chance to use the Indexes that you can find under Learn at the top of the website! You can sometimes find answers to questions there, without having to wait for us to wake up in our western time zone 😉
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When using a warping board with 4 or 5 ends in my hand at once, do I need to go slow enough to make sure the ends line up correctly on every peg or primarily at the cross? It all seems to line up beautifully when I pull the proper color sequence from the lease sticks so I am wondering if I warped at a unnecessarily slow speed.
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I would be aware of what’s happening but, as long as all threads in the group in your hand lie together on the peg, they will be together going through the cross. When you are threading your loom, you can move the order of those individual threads as long as you stay within the group as they go either over or under your lease sticks. Hope this helps.
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This must be a dumb question since I don’t see that it’s been asked before, but how do I hold 5 threads in one hand if I’m not supposed to hold two together? Thank you!!!
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Jamie, have you ever checked out the JST Knowledge Base? The questions are ones that Jane has answered in the years before the Online Guild and the Forum.
You can see some of the topics listed in the column on the right when you’re on the “front” page of the Forum. You can also get there under the About button at the top and at the bottom of the front page.
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Hi jane,
I am excited to be preparing to weave the season 2 sample 2 Colour & Weave Gamp.
I have the Louet Jane 40cm table loom and assembled it with 50 heddles on each of 8 shafts. The project as written has 348 ends and calls for these ends to be threaded on shafts 1, 2, 3, and 4. This won’t be possible on the loom as set up due to the number of heddles on each shaft.
My solution to this is to thread the gamp on shafts 1-8 and pull toggles 1, 3, 5, 7 for one pick and 2, 4, 6 for the next. Will this still give me the gamp as shown in the project photo?
Color and Weave II by Margaret Windeknecht has several gamps threaded on 8 shaft, so I think it may be possible with this warp.
Thank you,
Karen
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Hi,
I’m hoping that one of you can save me! 🙂
I am in the process of warping the color and weave gamp onto the loom back to front. I’m dealing with two big issues ….
1. I stupidly placed the warp onto the warp/apron rod backwards, so the color sequence of 50 D/L/DD/L is to my right (facing the back of the loom) instead of the left. The sequence of 48 D/L is on the left instead of the right (again, facing the back of the loom). I assume I can just weave this backwards once I’ve dressed the loom, following the weaving sequence from the bottom up of the warp colour sequence instead of top down. BUT my question is whether I will also need to thread my heddles backwards for each colour sequence. For example, instead of D/L/DD/L (moving from right to left), should I instead thread it as L/DD/L/D?
2. I’ve noticed that my navy threads are quite a bit lighter in weight than my natural threads even though they are both 8/2 yarns from your store. That seems to make it more likely for the navy to become entangled in the white (this is happening even with the threads between the raddle and the cross – a short distance – so I’m concerned that it will become a bigger problem as I begin to wind on. Are there any tricks to dealing with this? Could I spray the warp with a starch spray or something (that might be just for linen).
Thanks so much for your help! I think it’s not too late to save my warp but I’m not sure!!!
Carol
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Hi Carol, did you wind your warp holding the full block of threads in one hand? For instance, wind D/L/DD/L in one hand? If so, then all the threads in that wee group are in your cross together and you can move them around within each group. Otherwise, you will need to thread them as they are spread out in your cross and therefore on your lease sticks.
On the other question, I think all will be well once your warp is under tension, so I wouldn’t worry about it. Have you given your warp a good tug after you lashed it onto to the warp beam?
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Hi Sandra,
I’ve run into another issue that has really got me puzzled! I’ve begun threading the Colour and Weave gamp and have realized that I’m working with an extraordinary number of ends. The instructions give the total number of ends as 348, but that’s the number of different color sequences you use to warp. Isn’t the actual number much larger than that? (1446 ends). Just to be sure you understand: 48 repetitions of just the first sequence, D/L, is actually 96 threads, right? And those 96 threads need to be threaded into separate heddles, right?
Unless I’m somehow wildly misunderstanding the instructions, my next problem is that I don’t have enough heddles on my loom to thread the entire warp. But even if I did, the instructions say the width on the loom should be 19.25″ – and that would mean 75 threads per inch, which doesn’t seem right. Are you able to clear this up for me?
Thanks a million, as always.
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Will you promise not to hit your forehead too hard? Please 😉 48 ends in the first set – threaded D/L – then 4 ends apricot – then 44 ends in the next set threaded DD/LL, and so on ……. Take a close look at the photo on the first page – you can see the individual threads if you look closely. Happy to hear you are doing that one – it’s magical and so useful to be able to incorporate the ideas explored as you go forward! Have fun.
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Your classes are so inspiring. I just bought a bunch of your lovely cotton boucle, in black, white, blue and various colors for ‘zingers.’ I have started to wind the warp for this gamp with the cotton boucle, only to realize that I need a set of 12 EPI for boucle. If I just do 5 of the 7 gamp patterns then it would be a manageable 20 or 21 inches wide (which will fit on my reed). But, my question is – will the patterns still show with the cotton boucle, or should I not put on the boucle and wind another warp with 8/2 cotton???
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Hi Grace,
I love to weave with boucle and have done quite a few different designs with them and they will show up! If you can and have enough yarns on hand, I would try both the boucle on boucle and then boucle on 8/2 warp. I think you’ll like both 🙂 But start with what you have on hand, your boucle as it’s great to use up your stash.
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Hi, I am looking at the samples. I have very little stash and I am wondering how large the samples are or rather how much of he yarn will be left after doing the samples….will there be “stash?” Also If I wee to order the silks for the weft in a couple of them, how much is that used? Will one skein (or whatever it is called) take care of all of the samples? I am just trying to figure out how much to order.
Thank you.
Stephanie
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Hi Stephanie – really, it’s up to you as to the length of your warp. The first sample is square, plus a small fringe or hem. The information is on the PDF included with the lesson. The question about the silk – it depends – if you were to weave a scarf/shawl that had 300 warp ends and you wove it 72” long using silk – you would need roughly the same amount of yarn that you had in your scarf. 300 x 72” divided by 36” = 600 yards. A skein of 20/2 silk has 1,100 yards in it – so you almost have enough for two scarves if you mix in another colour in your weft as part of your design. Hope this helps.
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I have a question about threading the heddles for the DD/L sequence. This is what I plan to do. If this is not right, how do I thread the heddles?
First Group: Heddle 1: D Heddle 2: D H3: L H4: D
Second Group: H1: D H2: L H3: D H4:D
Third Group: H1: L H2: D H3: D H4: L
Thanks,
Jane
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One question I haven’t seen anywhere is [probably because it’s glaringly obvious 🙁 ] – I have 1 cone of dark and 1 cone of white yarn – how do I split the cones to create this warp sequence? How do I get 4 dark and 4 light threads from one cone of each colour? Do I wind off the 2 colours onto bobbins and then make the warp using the bobbins with the knitting needle/shoebox method?
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You’ve got it, Pat! However – Jane recommends 3 cones of each of the dark and light colours to wind and weave this warp. You could probably get away with 2 cones each and put on a 6-yard warp to save yarn, but not an 8 yard. However – this is one of the most magic gamps IMHO 😉 and so much fun to play with. Any leftover yarn will soon come in handy in other lessons.
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I’m embarrassed to even admit what I have done. I figured everything out to make sure I understood the warp color sequence and ended up with the correct number of ends. Then I waited several weeks while I redid the aprons on my loom. Then, I totally didn’t look at my notes and warped 1: 48 D/L, 4 Zingers; 2: 44 DD/LL, 4 Zingers; 3: 45 DD/L, 4 Zingers, and 4: 2D 39 DDDD/LLLL (yes, that is 737 ends total). All along I kept thinking I can’t believe I miscalculated how much yarn I’m going to need and I can’t believe one warp is taking me this long! I think I was so focused on holding the yarns correctly I just wasn’t thinking straight. The yarn was gifted to me by a friend (a bunch of half to 3/4 used cones of Maurice Brassard Bleu/4272 and Emeraude/5506 with a Jaune fonce/431 zinger). Should I trash the whole thing and start over (need to get some yarn since I don’t have enough for the gamp now) or do some tea towels of D/L, DD/LL and DD/L then DDDD/LLLL, or? I have to walk away for a while since I don’t know whether to laugh or cry. This is only my 4rd project (two were before I started this guild).
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Hi Andrea! How wide is your loom????? If you have a 45″ loom, just think of the other things you could weave with that fabric. Doing the sample afterwards – even with different colours would be a piece of cake! Don’t give up – this is all about learning how to weave AND learning to “wing it”. Please keep us posted on what you decide to do!!!!
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40″ but my limits are my reed which is 24.5 ish inches. I think I’ll just split it and do the D/L, DD/LL, DD/L as one draft and the DDDD/LLLL as the second. I’m done crying and laughing now. I need practice on warping so I’ll do these then go back and do sample 2.
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First off, let me just say how much I am learning through this awesome guild. I’m a brand new weaver and your clear, concise and relaxed teaching style is wonderful. This colour & weave episode really got me excited – the patterns it produces just speak to me, so I ordered the kit and was super excited to give it a go! However, the old Leclerc loom that I bought came with a sectional warping beam (no board or mill) and I’m at my wits end trying to convert the warping sequence into tidy 1″ sections. I’ve spent hours working spreadsheets trying to figure it out and at this point I think I’m going to wave the white flag and move on to another project until I can get my hands on a warping mill. It really seems to me that sectional warping is really only any good when you have a simple, straightforward warp design that can be worked into tidy 1″ increments. I’m extremely disappointed to not be able to figure this out and am quickly learning to strongly dislike my sectional beam as I find it so very limiting given my lack of experience and knowledge. Oh well…
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Hi Sophie – why don’t you search the Forum for the word “sectional”. There is a search option right at the top left of each page. There have been a number of discussions on using the sectional beam so far on the Forum. You might find something there that might help. Don’t despair – the Colour and Weave sample is a fun one to work on!
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Don’t despair, Sophie. I just helped a friend warp her sectional loom Jane’s way, back to front. We had to guide the 2 inch bouts between the rakes occasionally and fortunately it was a short warp. I had inserted the raddle in the beater but someone in my research said if you mount the raddle on the back beam it works better.
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Another question about the middle section (DDDD/LLLL). I thought that to get 48 ends for these 8 threads, I would wrap 6 times on the warping board. I’m obviously missing something because when I follow Jane’s illustration on the blackboard and wrapping 6 times I only get to DD, DDLL, LL in the sequence. I also see that from her illustration on the blackboard she has 20 threads so I’m not sure how to get 48 from there. How many times should I be wrapping each sequence from her illustration?
Thanks for straightening me out on this,
Vicki
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When warping with multiple threads, is it necessary to keep your hand facing the same direction as you wind? I am using a warping board and am turning palm up and down as I move back and forth. Will this tangle the threads when I wind on?
I have looked back at Season 1 but cannot see how Jane’s hand is moving!
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