Forums › Weaving Discussion › Online Guild Discussion › Season 1 – Foundation › Thoughts on 2.3 – Dressing Your Loom Back to Front – Warping a 27 yd long warp
- This topic has 42 replies, 27 voices, and was last updated 1 year, 9 months ago by
Sandra.
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February 8, 2017 at 4:11 pm #157604
Ginette
KeymasterLet us know your thoughts on 2.3 – Dressing Your Loom Back to Front – Warping a 27 yd long warp.
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September 19, 2019 at 2:59 pm #157605
Terry Waltz
ParticipantCould you pass an extra warp rod or dowel through the loop and attach weight to it with a “sled”, so your last bit would be tensioned while winding on?
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March 4, 2020 at 6:55 am #158532
Rosanna Lovecchio
ParticipantI love the idea of the books! Much better flow. I’ve been doing the “crank and yank and strum” method. It usually works out fine but a bit jerky going back and forth between front and back of the loom. Always feel like my warp is not wound on with the same tension. Thanks!
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March 30, 2020 at 5:39 am #160844
Jenni Gormley
ParticipantYou make it all look so easy. Can’t wait to start winding my warp. I’ve realised that’s been what’s been causing me problems. An untidy warp.
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April 14, 2020 at 8:38 pm #162302
Nancy Ricketts
ParticipantThis was my first time trying back to front dressing my loom and with your instructions it was so easy. This will definitely be my preferred method from now on. The warp went on smoothly and evenly
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April 22, 2020 at 6:30 am #163228
Deborah Fister
ParticipantBooks are a great idea! better than a warping trapeze. I have seen bouts with weights attached, too.
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May 1, 2020 at 8:52 pm #164257
Betty Kaufmann
ParticipantHi JST!
I am new to the Online Guild and am working my way through your episodes. Awesome!
Quick questions:
*Is it important that the lease sticks move? My are secured on my loom.*Is it desirable to have thinner paper? I was taught to use rolled up cardboard they sold at a Weavers’ supply outlet.
Thank You for your time and attention!
Betty Lou-
May 2, 2020 at 7:52 am #164287
Sandra
KeymasterWelcome to our weaving world, Betty. I tie my lease sticks on when dressing the loom the way Jane does, but mine slant up from the back beam to the castle of my loom. That way, I can sit at the front while threading my heddles, and adjust the height of my lease sticks so I can see them easily. The way I tie up mine gives them the ability to slide up or down a wee bit to get into my line of view. They come off when everything is secured at the front and I’m ready to weave.
I would certainly get a roll of heavy paper to have on hand. Paper doesn’t take up as much room on your back beam as layers of cardboard does, in case you ever want to put on a longer warp. Looking forward to seeing your results as you progress on your new adventure!
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May 12, 2020 at 10:35 am #165490
Teri Smith
ParticipantWill the books creating tension in the warp work with a wide warp, over 30″. Do you still use one stack of books or split in half and use two or more stacks?
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May 12, 2020 at 1:37 pm #165520
Deborah Fister
ParticipantThe experts need to weigh in on this one. I have wound only one wide warp and it became a tension disaster. I eventually had to cut off and rebeam the warp.
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May 25, 2020 at 3:28 pm #167084
Kellie Stapleton
ParticipantI did the down-down, up-up when setting up the lease sticks. They slide by hand, but when I wind the warp on they get pulled all the way to the back beam? They seem too tight…….
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July 9, 2020 at 9:22 am #172646
Kimberley Daniel
ParticipantHi Jane and everyone! I’m a newbie to weaving (just a few months) and I can’t believe how much information you pack into these lessons! I’m only here at lesson 2.2 and I’ve already learned so much. I have an Ashford table loom and have had pretty good luck warping so far. I’ve been mostly following Peggy Osterkamp’s step by step instructions along with some Ashford specific instructions I found online. But I’ve had issues as well and I knew there must be a simpler way. Watching these last 2 warping videos has really inspired me to find ‘my’ method. The tiniest thing, like cutting the end of the warp off instead of trying to cut through all the loops, blew my mind! Why didn’t I think of that? And the way you load the raddle inspires me to find a way to make that work with my table loom. Right now my raddle attaches to the back beam, the warp hangs down from there and I use the ‘yank and crank’ method and a whole lot of cardboard sticks. It works but it takes me forever. Irwin clamps and a big old roll of paper are on the way! Can’t wait to finish weaving my project so I can warp another one (and who ever says that?).
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July 9, 2020 at 1:03 pm #172676
Kimberley Daniel
ParticipantAt one point in this video you say “pretty easy, huh? But you couldn’t do this without a good warp”. What did you mean? And what do you mean by ‘good’? Good tension? Threads all lined up nicely? What would you have to do if your warp wasn’t ‘good’? Retension some sections? Fix crossed threads? If I have multiple warps (which I seem to always have) how do I maintain constant tension on them all at the same time? Multiple book piles I guess?
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September 2, 2020 at 5:31 pm #177063
Bettie Shea
ParticipantI just keep imagining the warping board for 27 yards! 😁
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September 26, 2020 at 2:26 pm #179717
Susan Flowers
ParticipantHi, I am new to this Guild and learning SO much, especially the ‘whys’ on certain processes. Thank you to everyone. My question is about dressing the loom with tension. I look forward to using Jane’s book method, however, the location where my Spring loom sits offers more space at the back not the front. Is it possible once the warp is in the raddle to feed the warp down in front between the harness and lamms then out the back to be weighted by books? Can you see any glitches with this or perhaps have an alternate suggestion?
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September 28, 2020 at 12:38 pm #179829
Ginette
KeymasterHi Susan,
I think you’ll have to give it a try and see if it’ll work for you. One other method, Jane shows in one of the Season 1 winding the warp on the loom showing how Charlotte did it, using her bench in front of the loom for a short warp. Thinking this could work for you. You would need to undo the chain more frequently though.
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October 17, 2020 at 1:48 pm #181336
Helen Aitken-Ritzer
ParticipantI’m never using back to front again! My raddle seems to have shredded my carefully wound warp of 500 ends.
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December 30, 2020 at 6:31 am #189539
Jessica
ParticipantI love that Jane is always barefooted <3
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January 1, 2021 at 4:05 am #189714
Christine Davies
ParticipantThis seems so obvious and works really well, but my work space is really limited and I can only just about fit in a table loom. There is definitely no room to layout and weight a warp. Any suggestions welcome for getting that good tension.
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January 1, 2021 at 6:42 pm #189804
Sandra
KeymasterHi Christine – I have very little room around my looms as well. What I do is use the method that Jane used in the YouTube video that she made for Louet years ago. I move back and forth between the front and back of the loom as I’m winding. I wind some warp on having really tugged at it evenly, then go to the back of the loom and tug on the paper as it wraps around the warp. This takes out any slack and gets the layers wound tightly on the back beam.
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January 9, 2021 at 9:20 pm #190993
Sivia Harding
ParticipantI am trying to wind on my first warp, on a table loom with books to weight the warp. I just had a warp strand break! Help! I did notice that the lease sticks seem to be under a lot of tension. Maybe I have too much weight on the warp as it is going on? Should I re-do the entire warp, or just keep on, with knowing I will have to re-do that one warp strand?
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January 9, 2021 at 11:03 pm #191001
Sandra
KeymasterDo you have the warp going through a raddle and if so, is it catching on something there that might have snapped a thread? I would just knot a new warp thread onto the broken one, making sure it’s long enough, and you’ll have to deal with a knot in your warp while you are weaving. It’s not the end of the world 😉 Try less weight on the warp and see if that makes a difference. Good luck – it’s all part of learning to weave!
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January 13, 2021 at 8:54 pm #191679
sara.clevering
ParticipantI just got a Countermarch loom (!) and so I’m finding the crank and yank like I happily used on my baby wolf is not going to be an option. Would this method for 27 yards be worth a try on my Oxaback Lilla?
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January 14, 2021 at 10:28 am #191752
Ginette
KeymasterHi Sara,
I would give it a shot for sure. Can you secure a raddle on the harnesses? I’m just looking at a photo of an Oxaback Lilla, looks like the harnesses are hanging from the top of the castle. I would make a small warp and give it a try. Congrats on your new loom by the way!
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January 15, 2021 at 4:03 pm #192152
Kimi Tuxford
ParticipantIf you have to put your loom against a wall due to space constraints, is it more logistical to put the front or the back against the wall (I own a mighty wolf)?
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January 15, 2021 at 4:56 pm #192169
Ginette
KeymasterHi Kimi,
It all depends how you dress your loom, if you follow how Jane demonstrates, it’s practical if the loom is facing the wall (front of loom) then you can pull out your warp. With your mighty wool loom, you totally want to place it the best way for putting the warp on and not have to move it 🙂
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January 19, 2021 at 11:10 am #192934
Penelope Boling
ParticipantCan you tell us how much the books weigh?
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January 19, 2021 at 3:37 pm #192984
Ginette
KeymasterHi Penelope,
That’s a really good question! Not sure on the ones used by Jane in this video and it all depends on your warp itself, how wide, how many threads etc. What I watch for when I add books for weight, if the chain is sliding from under the books and the books are not moving along with the warp, that tells me I have too many and I’ll remove a book.
To determine if I have enough weight, I’ll feel the warp to make sure that the threads will remain together when wounding on and there’s no slack happening. Hope this makes sense!
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February 1, 2021 at 1:51 pm #195015
Christiana Halsey
ParticipantThis is the world’s goofiest question, but I have dogs and am thinking that I will need to do some serious floor cleaning before using the book on the floor method 🙂 Do you worry about dirt/lint on the floor or figure that it’ll get washed out with the wet setting?
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February 15, 2021 at 9:18 am #197019
Shannon Wittman
ParticipantI wound a 5 yard warp and just used the ‘no friends available’ method using a stack of my son’s graphic novels. Winding a warp on my Louet Megado used to take an hour or more. 7 minutes! Let me repeat…7! I can’t stop smiling! Not one single snag!
Shannon Wittman
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March 6, 2021 at 9:16 am #199217
Robin Heggeland
ParticipantChristiana,
I have a cat and always sweep up before winding on when using the book technique, (which happily, works like a charm). Then I do the wet finishing in the washer when using a non-felting fiber.
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March 14, 2021 at 2:20 pm #199949
Julie Evans
ParticipantI have my loom in a carpeted room – I’m thinking that the book weight method won’t work too well with the carpet dragging on the warp?
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March 15, 2021 at 9:53 am #200022
Ginette
KeymasterHi Julie,
I’ve done it on carpet. It works. Why don’t you give it a try and start with a certain weight of books and adjust as you go if needed by either removing some books or adding. I can’t quite remember how many books I had used. We’ve since removed the carpeting 😉
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April 15, 2021 at 4:32 am #208717
Paulie
ParticipantGood morning,
I wound on 6 yards and it went pretty well. the sides on the paper do have gapping where the warp is not in-between the layers. I assumed this was normal. The warp tension appears to be good. What does Jane mean when she says “no slack” in the paper. Just that she cannot tug on the paper as it is tight or something else.
Thanks, Paulie
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April 16, 2021 at 2:49 pm #208876
Ginette
KeymasterHi Paulie,
Are those threads not in between layers fallen over the edge? If so, it may create tension issues when you’ve advanced the warp. As for the no slack in the paper, you don’t want the paper to bubble up in spots as you wind on, if that makes sense! You want the paper to maintain an even roll on all the time.
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April 18, 2021 at 9:27 am #209057
Judy Xander
ParticipantThese first lessons are amazing! I hope to change my warping game significantly by using Jane’s techniques. I usually have a wider warp which is wound, and chained, in several bouts. Are there any extra considerations when beaming using multiple chains? Thanks!!
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This reply was modified 1 year, 9 months ago by
Judy Xander.
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This reply was modified 1 year, 9 months ago by
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April 26, 2021 at 6:31 pm #211186
Leslie Soopalu
ParticipantIn the near final stages of winding on an 8.5 meter warp (the plaid sample), one of my red threads snapped down at the backbeam. (the red section was wound 2 threads at a time)
I’ve got my three dimensional thinking cap on to try and understand the implications of this and what to do about it. Part of me thinks, just leave the one strand out and carry on but as the whole warp is essentially one continuous thread….which is now broken, won’t this cause the warp to loose tension when I get to the last few meters of the warp? I could replace the thread from the front and have it weighted off the backbeam but that still doesn’t address the broken thread that will eventually loose tension and affect its neighbour threads.
Appreciate your input.
thanks, Leslie
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April 26, 2021 at 7:54 pm #211188
Sandra
KeymasterLeslie, since you are close to winding on the last of your warp, the broken thread won’t cause tension problems until you are almost at the end of your weaving. The bar you’ve lashed your warp will be released from the layers of warp keeping everything in place, at that point. I’d do as you suggested and replace the thread at the front, weave with it until you can pick up the broken thread and start including it. Jane describes the process here on The Knowledge Base. Hope that that helps.
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