- This topic has 63 replies, 27 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 5 months ago by
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Jane,
Would you place the raddle and lease sticks differently if you were beaming onto a sectional warp beam?
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Hi Patricia
I have only warped a sectional beam using a tension box in which case you don’t need either raddle or lease sticks. Well, not the way I did it anyway….I’m not a expert on sectional warping….it has been a long time :). I used to beam in one inch sections. The tension box worked like the lease sticks and raddle. I would tape the ends of each bout with masking tape before I cut them from the tension box and then I would tape them to the beam. Once it was all on I would bring up each taped bout. Because they were only an inch worth of threads I could thread them without getting them messed up. Hope this helps, Cheers,
Jane
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Hi Jane,
Do you have any tips or ideas about warping rigid heddles? I am a poor student and it’s what I have. Do I just go about it the same way or is it smarter to use a direct warping method with rigid heddles?
Thank you!
Zee
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I have an older 1943 leclerc nilus mira loom. To balance the harnesses it causes the rods above the harnesses to be uneven with each other. But when I level the roller bars above the harnesses so they are parellell the harnesses aren’t level. What am I doing wrong?
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Hi scottleesheep, How are the cords that are wrapped around the rods, are they all the same length? Also, are the rollers adjustable on your loom? I know that in the later years, they put brackets on the inside of the castle pieces so that the rollers can be adjusted, not sure if yours has any. Also, if when you adjust the harnesses, do you get a good shed? If so, I would just adjust the harnesses and not worry about the rollers.
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I’ve been weaving for years, and am still learning so much from these season 1 videos! Would you have a recommendation on where to put the raddle on a Macomber loom? I have always put it on the back beam, but it’s so interesting to see the raddles on the harnesses, on the opposite side of the lease sticks from where I’m used to. Thank you, so I glad I joined your guild, I’m feeling so inspired to get a warp wound.
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I’ve been weaving for a few years but still consider myself a novice. I cannot believe how much easier you make warping than the way I learned it. I have a 22″ Norwood so I’m going to have to do some mods to put the raddle on the shafts (no castle and the shafts have a little play in them) but I will figure out how to make it work because this just makes so much more sense. Thank you.
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I have an obscure old loom made in New Zealand, no longer manufactured, called a Loman floor loom ; 4 shaft. I’m pretty sure the previous owner (deceased so I can’t ask her) must have warped front-to-back as it didn’t come with a raddle despite many other accessories. I’m thinking she must have tied the lease sticks to the breast beam and sleyed, threaded then beamed that way. I’m going to try your way once I get myself some handy dandy quick grips and a raddle, but question: do lease sticks have to be flat? Because mine are round dowels….
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Which size of seine twine do you use for lashing on. I believe you said ‘somewhere’ in one of the videos, and silly me didn’t write it down thinking I’d remember, but I’ve looked and looked and looked again through the videos and can’t find those minutes. Help!
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I am part of a group that meet to watch the videos together. A question came up and I am writing to ask…
Why take the break off while winding the warp on? No one had seen this done before.Thanks for your time,
Selma -
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Hi Jane,
Joining your guild was the best thing that I have done for myself in a while. Your sense of humor and being pretty much down to earth is refreshing. I have just purchased my Jane Table Loom – 70 and I am anxiously awaiting its arrival. I was hoping that I would find an episode that has you working on a Jane Loom. Is there one? Also, would you tell me the size of the warping rod (metal rod is what I am looking for) you use? Thank you. You and Charlotte are wonderful and most fun to watch!
Stephanie Thomas
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I’m excited for you, Stephanie! You can find a lot of information on the Jane loom in the Shop part of the JST website. Find your loom and then scroll down the page to find more information. Click the tabs on the side to discover even more! This should keep you happily reading for a bit while you wait. 😉
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Thank you for the information. Also, what is the circumference of the warping rod (metal dowel?) Do you happen to know? 1/4 inch? That seems like it would bow. I should be more clear. I want to use the metal warping rod on my Baby Wolf and was wondering what size would fit into the holes in the Texsolv string.
Stephanie Thomas
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Hi Stephanie, just to add to Sandra’s comment, the rods are 1/2 inch stainless steel metal. I can’t check my loom at the moment to verify that the rod would fit through the texsolv holes as I just wound my David loom and can’t seem to reach the rod under the separator paper… but on the video, Jane’s rod does. I tie my rod a little different, I have 2 little ties, one on each side that I slide the rod through and the warp rod (stick) together.
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Hi: I am a very new weaver. I have only woven once on a little direct tie up loom. I recently purchased an old Peyton counterbalance loom which my experienced friend assures me is in good working order, and it seems she is correct. I am making myself a raddle to fit the loom, and I’m very glad I watched your video before I hammered in all the nails! I really like the idea of clamping the raddle to the harnesses rather than the back beam, which was my initial plan. There isn’t much clearance between the lower rollers and the top of the harness however. What do you think of the idea of clamping the raddle to the rollers rather than the top of the harnesses? My raddle will by wide enough to straddle both of the bars. It looks to my inexperienced eye that it would work just fine. Thanks so much for your very informative videos! I|only joined yesterday and already I have learned so much!
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Hi Alicia, welcome aboard! You are thinking of securing your raddle to the rollers with clamps – one at each end? You will end up creating a lot of movement through the raddle as you wind your warp through it onto the back beam. You wouldn’t want your raddle to roll off! Is there a shelf or flat spot above the top roller, have you tried to see if the raddle would sit there. The higher it is, the easier it is to spread your warp through it – easier on your back 😉 It looks like you have a beautiful loom.
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Thank you Sandra! I was just coming up from looking at it, and I totally agree. There would be too much movement. There is no shelf above or attached to the the top roller. I think I will either put up with the inconveniently low clearance above the harnesses, or put the raddle on the back beam. The back beam might actually be easier. At least I will be able to sit down part of the time.
About the loom: It appears from the little bit of internet research that I have done that x frame counterbalance looms were made by a number of small workshops in Oregon and Washington State from the 1940s on. Arthur Allen looms seem to be the most common. The name has worn off of mine, but I’ve identified it by looking at a couple of labelled examples online. It is quite pretty!
Thank you very much for your advice. Much appreciated.
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I have a Gilmore loom which does not have a castle. I have been attaching the raddle to the back beam, which creates a stressful and tedious job to get threads into place. Would it be possible to attach the raddle to the top of harnesses? Would it be best to have just one harness in place or attach it with clamps to more than one harness? My loom holds 8, but I am still only using 4. I’d love to make this part of the process easier. Thank you for your input, Cathy
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Hi Kathy,
I would attach the raddle to the top of the harnesses and if your clamps are big enough, try attaching to all 8. I do this on my AVL loom as it’s the only place I can put the raddle, mind you, I am using some larger clamps I found in our garage. I have done where I used smaller clamps and attached them to only 4 of the harnesses but the harnesses on my loom can move for me to do that. Your Gilmore is a jack loom, so attaching on less than 8 might be tricky. Let us know how you make out 🙂
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Hi Jane, I am really enjoying my subscription. I’ve been weaving for awhile on a lovely old 27 inch leclerc, counter balance loom. I really like the suggestion of clamping the reed on the harnesses, mostly because I hate bending way over into the loom to take the threads in order off the lease sticks and into the raddle where leclerc suggests it should go. It is really hard on the back. I also hate spreading out on the back apron (the way I was taught) and will try lashing on with seine twine as you’ve suggested. Two questions though about clamping on to the harnesses. Can you use the same method for a wider project than your scarf example (for example a tea towel) and if so how do you work around the counter balance cords attacking the harnesses to the top of the loom? I hope that’s a clear question! Also, what size Irwin quick clamps would you use for this purpose. Thanks again for such great material.
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Hi Jane, how much distance do you have between the cords on your harnesses? You could make a raddle that would fit perfectly between them, the way that Jane demonstrates. Have you watched the episode on counter-balance looms in Season 1? You will see there than Jane weaves ALL her fabulous mohair blankies on that loom – so you can weave as wide as the reed you have for your loom! As to the size of Irwin Quick Grips – it depends on the size of the item that you want to clamp 😉 Hope this helps – if not, ask away!
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Soooo glad I finally pulled the trigger and signed up for the online guild!
I have a 200 year old barn loom and so I’m not sure where to put the raddle if not in the beater. I have around 4 feet of space from the harnesses to the warp beam, there is no back beam either. I could suspend something from the upper horizontal beams, that way I could adjust how close to hang the raddle from the warp beam…. other than that I’m not sure what to do. Any ideas?
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Yes, you can easily set a chair in there to thread the heddles. The beater can be moved forward and backward a bit and it *can* come apart completely but I never do that as it’s pegged together.
Thank you, I’m privileged to be part of this loom’s history, it has taught me a lot already.
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I have dressed it only a few times and it was front to back, as I was taught. Each time it has been a tangled up mess and took FOREVER to dress. Jane’s lessons about warping have been a real eye-opener for me and I can’t wait to try her method. I will look for the Quick grips and give those a try. Thank you!
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Hi Sandra, thanks for your response. There’s about 18 inches between the harness cords so making a raddle and rolling on the way Jane suggests would work well for narrower projects, but not tea towels, I fear. Just thought I might have missed a work around. Back to the raddle in the front process, though I think I will get rid of the apron ties and lash on the way Jane demonstrates, Even more nerve wracking for me is spreading out the warp on the back Rod with all those threads looped over my arm! Yikes! The Irwin grips are fantastic. Where have they been all my life? I measured my raddle and the four wooden harness (about 4 inches across) so 6 inch grips would probably be fine,
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Hi Jane. I have a Leclerc Voyageur 24″ table loom with the new swinging beater. This means there’s no way to use the raddle (where Leclerc recommends) unless you thread the raddle like the reed. This has been confirmed by Leclerc, so I’ve returned the raddle and invested in the Ashford kit. They recommend it on the back beam, which it fits nicely on the Leclerc. Where would you recommend the raddle on my loom if not on the back beam? The top of the castle has the levers so that’s out.
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I’ve received the Ashford raddle but it’s too wide to fit under the castle and attach to the shafts. The castle has the levers on top but if I pull them down the raddle could fit on top. It’s not totally level and the threads would be moving over the levers as I beamed on. I could put a piece of paper over the levers; thread moving over the paper. So the raddle wouldn’t be level and where the thread moved wouldn’t be level. Is it worth it?
Any other possible places?
Thanks
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New weaver here. I’m trying to figure out how wide to spread the warp on the raddle. I thought the project was 10″ wide but maybe I didn’t hear right. It’s hard to hear Jane, is she saying the project is 20″ or 10″ wide? Or is she talking about epi? She says the nails are on the half inch so if it’s 20 epi, I could see 10 threads in each space? Is that correct? Do you count the space or the nail in the raddle? And what if your raddle is in cm? Or the spacing of the nails is different than 2 spaces/in?
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Hi Kellie, I just noticed your message – sorry I missed it. The width you spread in your raddle depends on your project. The yarn Jane was putting on her loom looks very different from yours. The weight of your yarn determines the ends per inch and therefore the number of ends in your project. It looks like fairly large yarn on your loom, therefore, your ends per inch would be much less than what Jane is using for a silk project. For instance, if Jane is using 20/2 silk, it would be sett at 20 epi. If you are using heavier wool yarn, you might sett it at 8 epi. For instance, if Jane had 10″ project, her warp would have 200 ends (20 epi x 10″). If you were winding a 10″ project, and your yarn was 8 epi – you would have 80 ends in your warp. It’s quite a difference. So, for your 10″ warp, you would put 4 ends in each of the spaces on your raddle if your spaces are 1/2″ wide. Jane explains all this as you move through the lessons in Season 1.
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This was so very helpful. Question — I do not have rolls of paper, but I do have warping sticks. I realize that for a very long warp, the sticks wouldn’t work well, but for a shorter warp, how do I space the sticks in the roll? Do they touch each other, or do you just need a couple for each twist of the roller?
Thanks so much!! Amy
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Can someone tell me which episode – and about at what point in the video – Jane shows how she chains the warp – I made a few bouts and they will not unchain! so I have to slowly take them all apart and do them properly. They look the same as Jane’s but obviously I’ve done something wrong…usually I use ties.
thanks
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You may have started your chain from the cross end – the best way to find the location for chaining your warp would be in the index for Season 1 or by using the beta search below.
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I have a Gilmakra Juliet Countermarch Loom. I thought I have figured out how to warp using the videos. I clamped the raddle on top of the heddles and started placing the warp threads on it. But when I got to the cords hanging down (that hold the lams) I had planned to just flip the warp onto the other side of the cords. Didn’t work! So, today I just unhooked the cords. There has to be an easier way because they are the devil to tie back up. This is only my second warp. I am a beginner. Would appreciate any guidance. Jane makes it looks so effortless!
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In the introduction of this episode Jane writes that tension issues in the warp are easy to manage.
I made a warp on a warpingbord, and apparently increased the tension. So one end is tighter than the other end. The pegs did not bow, the are glued, it was just me.Can you explain how to manage this?
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Lies, it just practice, practice and more practice. Pay attention to what you’ve done with this warp and be aware of it the next time. You WILL get there. Think of it like riding a bike – you fall in the beginning but soon you learn what you need to do to stay on the bike 😉
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Ha, as a genuine Dutch girl I am good at riding a bike :), so there is hope.
My question also refers to how can I correct the difference in tension while beaming the warp. Do you have advise on that?
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OK – true confessions time 😉 My loom is in a very small space and, over the years, I’ve wound the warp on the way Jane demonstrates in her original Louet YouTube video. That way, if my tension isn’t perfect on my warp for some reason, I can deal with it from the front before I wind it on. Hope this helps until you have mastered winding a warp that is perfect!
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could you use landscape fabric to wind your warp on instead of paper? or is the idea for the threads to slide easily on the paper? I just thought it might be easier with the thin fabric and its fairly cheap .
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