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So I, too, have had smiley faces on the fell line. I saw your smiley faces on the selvages and how to fix them. I gather that smiley faces on the fell line can be fixed by tightening the warp threads on both edges of the warp. I find this happens at the beginning of the project, so it is easy to get at the tails of the warp. Is there anything else I can do?
Love the information so far and the sample ideas are to die for!
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Just put 6 yard warp on my loom. Looked like great colour combinations in the light I was working in last night. In the bright morning light its another thing. I know colour changes according to light and it did. Dark grey is now more rose and the light grey is actually a very pale blue. This will work for this study as long as I don’t look at it in daylight. Good lesson. I would send a picture with this if I could figure out how to do it. In the meantime, happy weaving.
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Hi Carol, You can post pictures in the main forum. We’ve got a thread there for the Asymmetry sample. Will be nice to see what your colours are like.
Ginette-
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Ginette, I’ve looked but can’t find what you call the Main Forum (see Feb 2018). Is it labeled as that? You say there’s a thread called Asymmetry Samples for us to post photos in? I’ve done a search for it and it did not come up. It would be nice if it was possible to have a Topic labeled for each of the samples/projects for each season so we could share photos and inspire each other.
If it exists, it is not easy to find.
I’m new to the guild but not new to forums… but it might be that I have to spend more time on the forum to figure it out.
Do you find that the Ravelry forum is used more?
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I’m interested that you weave squares on the loom. I usually weave a slightly elongated ‘square” on the loom and when I take it off the loom, it has drawn up to be a square. Sometimes that doesn’t happen all the way until after washing, but it happens. I am weaving on a big ol’ Cranbrook with high tension. Is this is loom specific issue?
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I am so enjoying this. I have my first sample woven. Came back to review, and go over my notes. I love this format. Can you tell me the other color combinations you have there at the end? Also are they boucle? Thank you ! Ellen
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Good Morning! I am getting ready to wind the warp for this sample and will be using my new 12 shaft Spring loom. I have really enjoyed Jane’s video instructions on this loom, however, I have a very basic question. What, if anything, needs to be done with the unused shafts–in this case, shafts 5 through 12? Do they need to be addressed in any way? With the jack loom I have been using, nothing needs to be done, but I know the countermarche is different. Thank you so much!
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Hi Janet, congrats on your new Spring loom! Here’s the answer to your question from Jane’s Helpline, I’ve copied & pasted for you. Happy Weaving!
What to do with extra harnesses and lamms on Louet Spring
I’ve just received my long awaited Spring loom. I went for broke and got a 12 harness loom. I’m almost ready to put on my first project. (It went together beautifully). Here’s my question. Since I’m new to the loom, I’m thinking it’s a good idea to be on the less ambitious side, and start with something simple – such as an 8 harness pattern. What do I do with the extra harnesses and lamms? I used to have a Glimakra countermarche, and I simply took off the extras. Do I do the same with the Spring? Or is it better to start with all 12 harnesses? I’m not a new weaver. I’m just new to this loom. Thanks.
Congratulations on your new loom. You can weave on any number of shafts, even just 2 :^) I leave the blocking pin on any shafts that aren’t in use. You insert the pin from the back and pick up anything that isn’t being used and then they just sit there as happy as can be. Don’t take the harnesses off, phew…that would be a horrible job. You also don’t tie-up any treadles that aren’t in use.
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Hi Ladyquilter,
Jane didn’t use floating selvedges for plain weave. Did you get a chance to look at episode 5.2 from season 1? Jane goes through several good points about selvedges.
Ginette-
Yes, I’ve seen that episode, but I think I’ll go back and review. Please let Jane know that I love this guild. I’ve learned so much already. She is awesome.
Thanks for the quick response,
Melody -
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I loved all the episodes for this sample! I’ll be weaving on a LeClerc Dorothy with a weaving width of 15 3/4″ which means I’ll have to weave a double width cloth. This will be a first for me. My second challenge is going to be when we change from 18 epi to 12 epi. That narrow width on my loom makes this problematic. The only solution I see is to warp the loom for 12 epi and still start weaving at 18 epi thus giving me a narrower cloth. Do you see a better solution for me to try?
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I have really benefited by Jane’s instruction and hints. Thanks so much for doing this. In this video 2.2.4 Jane begins higher up on her warp above a black line across the warp. It doesn’t look like picks though it looks more like a hem stitch. I am wondering if that is a way to start a new sample? I have just finished the first section on this sample and I also wanted to know how much gap to leave before the next sample?
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I think you are referring to the beginning of the Asymmetry sample. Jane has just tied on her warp and woven a few picks to get the warp established. She started this sample with a contrasting hemstitch in black. She would have tucked her ends in to complete the black and then started the sample off in white to create her white square.
The amount of gap you leave depends on how you want to finish your samples – with a fringe or with a hem. If you are planning to use your samples as tea towels, then you would leave enough for your hems between two towels – I mark the division of the two with a contrasting colour. There has been talk about hemming on the Online Guild Forum – if you need some ideas, search the Forum for hemming. Hope this helps!
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Hi Ginette. That’s where I thought it would be but I start the video at 0 and Jane is sitting at a reslayed loom. Then I just watched all the way through and there is no video of her actually cutting the the warp and reslaying. I thought I saw a video previously where she does that. Am I missing something?
Frances
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Hi Frances, Jane doesn’t show on video the actual cutting of the warp and resleying but talks about it. Basically the way to do it, you advance your warp to give you enough warp so the threads don’t come out of your reed & heddles on their own. Then you cut the warp, pull the threads out of the reed making sure they don’t come out of the heddles and then you can resley. Hope this helps.
Ginette -
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When looking at the sample kits you have available, I didn’t find any place where it tells you how many yards the sample kit will do for a warp. In one of the videos Jane says to do a 6 to 8 yard warp. I was wondering if these kits are enough to do 8 yard warps or only 6 yards.
thanks
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Hi sengle685, the kit will do a 6 yard warp no problem. You’ll have enough to weave the Asymmetry sample and the idea is that you use up some of the other colours from the kit in your weft as well for the rest of the warp along with some of your stash of 2/8 or other yarns you may have handy. Cottolin works great by the way. If you would like an 8 yard warp, best to order an extra cone of bleached and that will do it.
Ginette
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I have two questions, and apologies if the answers appear somewhere else (I bet they do). First has to do with winding a warp with a bunch of stripes like this one. The question is whether you cut/break the warp thread and tie it on to the last peg of our warp on the warping board every time you change colours or is there some way to carry different coloured threads along as you wind the warp? It ended up working OK but I found it challenging to keep a consistent tension on the last thread as I tied it off before changing colours. Second is where does Jane show how she “tucks the ends” when changing colors in the weft? I can sort of see what she’s doing by watching her weave but would love to see it demonstrated. Many thanks.
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Hi bzbbell, in episode 1.3 of Season 1, Making a Good Warp at the 3:20 mark, Jane demonstrates changing colours by breaking off the threads you just finished and how to tie on the new threads, this really helps with keeping tension on the warp. Tucking tails, you can view this in Season 1 again, in Episode 5.2 – Project Planning 101 – Intro to unfinished business – Tucking Tails.
Ginette
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Hi!
I think I’ve watched everything I’m supposed to before starting the actual first Asymmetry project, but I have a pretty basic question I didn’t see answered. How does Jane want us to wind our warp? Should we be using the technique she demonstrated in S1 where we wind and then tie the next color to the previous one on the warping board? I seem to recall she’s not a fan of winding one color, then making the next a separate warp and so on.
Thank you! I’m excited to begin!
Rayme-
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I’m sorry, I’m still a little confused. The first project calls for 30 white ends, then a bunch of ten ends of different colors, then 80 more white ends. Are we supposed to be winding just *one* color at a time onto the board, or holding pairs of thread colors together (eg, black and white, or red and white) as Jane did for her boucle warp?
Thank you!!
Rayme-
If you have 2 cones of any of your colours, you could wind 2 colours at a time. For example, for the white sections you could wind 2 threads of white together until you have 30 ends. Then break those threads and tie on either one thread to wind 10 blacks (or if you have two cones you could wind black 2 at a time). Wind your warp that way until you get to 80 white and do the same thing you did with the 30 threads. The warp she was winding with boucle was for a colour and weave warp where the pattern called for 3 darks and 1 light to be wound over and over again – not solid colours like you have in the Asymmetry Sample. Hope this helps.
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hi Jane, what is the weightlength of yarn in each of the cones for your sample kits please? I cant see it in the specs for the individual kits. I fear postage to the UK will ramp up the overall cost 🙁 so better to source the yarns here.
thanks
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Hi!
Slow poke here…
It’s only taken me nearly three years to sort of catchup on episodes and wind the first sample kit. I swear I used a 6 yard guiding string but I’ve run out of bleached white and need 20 more ends to.
I only got 60 of the 80.Any suggestions on what Color I should finish with that would be in line with this lesson/episode.
I have white from another kit but worries I will run into the same issue.
Hope that makes sense.
Thanks!
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Thank you, Jane – I have enjoyed everything so far and learned much.
I have just warped up 6 yards of the Asymmetry sample (two threads at a time) with 8/2 cotton; I have a 10 dent reed, and if I understand correctly, I should be putting 1-2-2-2 threads through my raddle. What should the width be in the reed? 15 1/2″ seems too short. I have the bigger Louet Jane. Thank you.
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I have just watched the previous episode “Introduction to Sample One”, and Jane says that the width in the reed is 16 1/2″. Not 15 1/2″ as per the information sheet pdf. Perhaps this is where I am confused!
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Hi Sue, the easiest way to double-check the width in the reed, is to take your number of ends and divide it by your sett. In this case – 280 ends divided by a sett of 18 gives you 15.5″ in your reed. You are correct about sleying the sample, using your 10 reed, by sleying 1,2,2,2. The important thing about using your raddle is to have your warp centred and the same width in your raddle as it will be in your reed. Have fun!
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Hello
Well, it appears that I have made numerous mistakes regardless of my note taking.Question: what should I expect if I forgot to lash metal rod to the back warp stick— it’s held on by texsolv at either end.? I realized this after I sleyed and tied on to the front.
Should I unwind the whole 6 yards carefully and start all over?
Some day, I will make it to sample 2;)
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Hi there,
Thanks Ginette for the lashing on tip.
And more ?
I’m reviewing my notes and revisiting videos sections as I work my way through sample 1. (Not that has prevented my many errors) Tucking tails, diving and bumping, and anchoring.anchoring. .. Jane mentioned not anchoring for sample 1 because she wanted a clean selvedge.Did I misunderstand? I can’t find the minute mark.
I haven’t been anchoring… beginning or end of color sections.
Normally, Should you anchor before and after introducing a new bobbin/yarn?Making all the mistakes …
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What Jane means in this part is she wasn’t going to carry the thread up the sides as she wanted a clean selvedge. That said, she did tuck her tails with each beginning and ending of colour changes. You do want to do that as well to secure the threads. Carrying the thread up the sides, if you want to see what that is, watch this little bit from Season 1, Episode 3.
-carrying weft thread up the side when using colour changes 3.3, 20:12
Sometimes you want to use it, and sometimes not. On a white dominant warp, those colour threads to show up more when carried up and sometimes that looks ok too. It’s what you like in the end. I would start tucking your tails though whenever you change colour, white or the others.
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Good morning! I’ve been making good progress with my asymmetry samples. I think I mastered the basic moves for jump the bump, dive the dip and am gaining speed and confidence. Hooray!!! But I’m not getting the smooth scalloped selvedges using a LLD pattern and instead I’m seeing small thread bumps. I’ve included a photo here. Are you able to tell what I’m doing wrong? Thanks as always for your help! Carol
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I’m thoroughly enjoying these classes and looking forward to weaving these samples. Just a question about yarn…do you use mercerized cotton, or will regular cotton work okay?
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Jane uses unmercerized cotton for all the cotton samples. She also has yarn kits for each of the samples she creates.
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I’ve found it once and can’t find it again–the part of this on line thingie where guild members share photos of their efforts. I somehow found the photos of the white, black, gray, and red towels and now can’t find it again; and I’m sure I’ll want to see the guild members’ efforts for all the samples–so please let me know where I can find that on line. Thanks.
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That’s not it. Only a few photos show up. the thread I found ONCE–drat it can’t find it again–had a whole lot of participants’ photos of their Asymmetry towels. One of them is a friend of mine and I even tried to find it by using her name in the search, and got everyone with the same first name, but not HER!!! This is very frustrating.
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Have you been able to ask her where she posted it? That’s the only other thing I can suggest is that not everyone posts in an existing thread – some weavers create their own threads. Also, she may be using a unique user name rather than her own name. So if you haven’t found it by searching using asymmetry, then I have no idea how to find it.
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Hi,
After watching this, I thought I watched another video in which Jane showed some ideas for continuing weaving after the sample. I remember she opened her sett and even wove a silk scarf at the end. Would you know where this video is? Many thanks!
Hi again, I’ve still not been able to find the video and have done a search. I remember she warped with cotton and showed a silk scarf in the Ariel’s Voice colorway. Does that sound familiar at all? I’ve rewatched so many videos but I still can’t find it. Thank you!
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This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by
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This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by
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Jane shows us the samples she has opened up to 12 epi in Season 2.2.3 – Introduction to Sample One. It’s around the 49-minute mark in the video. I found that reference by looking at the Online Guild Indexes listed on the Online Guild drop-down menu. Are you looking for a place where she demonstrated it or to see the samples?
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This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by
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I’m a beginner working my way through the episodes. At the beginning of this sample I see what looks like black hemstitching? Do you put that in before starting to weave?
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Oops, one more question. I see you’re leaving short ends when you start a new color, rather than tucking them. What happens to them at the end?
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I finally have Sample one warp on my loom and have finished the first “sample”. What do I do to separate this sample from the next one I am going to weave? I hem stitched at beginning and end of the first sample.
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Well I am definitely enjoying this Season 2 Sample 1.
I have challenged myself to create my own designs, as I am much more comfortable following a “pattern”. It has been great.
I have had trouble getting the tension on the dark gray that replaced the red. I think maybe I didn’t secure it tightly enough around the needle since adjusting the weight/tension at the back of the loom doesn’t seem to fix it.
I am preparing to cut off the samples already done to open up the sett from 18 epi to 12 epi.
My questions are:
1. I have hemstitched and left “fringe” length on either side of each of my samples. Do I separate each of the sample pieces I remove from the loom before washing them, or do I leave them all together and wash them while they are all still attached to each other? Also does the Dr. Becckmann’s just go in the the wash cycle?
2. Is there anything special I need to know for winding a bobbin with boucle?
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Yikes. I cut off my first samples to open the sett, and forgot to ensure that there was no tension on the 10 dark gray that replaced the red, and it all flew through the reed and heddles and hit the floor in short order. Beware. Another lesson learned….the hard way.
I believe I don’t have a wide enough loom and reed to use my entire warp with it opened up to 12 epi. I think I am calculating this correctly: 22 inch reed times 12 ends per inch, means the reed can handle 264 ends, not the original 280 ends.
My conclusion is that I will have to reduce the warp width by 280-264=16 ends.
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OH, NO, Anita! I feel for you!! However, you are understanding what you need to do to open up your warp. I’d give myself a little more room and reduce it by 20 ends, just to make it a wee bit easier but only because you have large amounts of white on both sides of your warp and taking 10 off each side won’t change the overall look. Did your warp come right off the back beam onto the floor behind the loom? It might be difficult to salvage it if it did 🙁
As to the other questions that I didn’t get a chance to answer. I usually wash items that are woven one after the other while they are still attached. And, you only need to use the Colour Catcher in the wash. You wind boucle bobbins the same way you wind any other bobbin, so you can relax about that question! Keep us posted on how you go forward from this point, please.
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It was the ten ends of dark gray that replace the red that flew off and onto the floor. I had left my lease sticks in to help control the tension on the homemade loom I am working on. I had made a poorly tension-ed warp on my warping board, and got twists and all sorts of craziness in my chain. This became a blessing, as I carefully studied the crosses before and after and laced the 10 ends through the lease sticks and heddles again. I think I have it all set to tie on today.Thank you for the info on washing the first part of my sample.
One thing I did not consider when adjusting to the width limitation on my loom, is that I have unused metal heddles at the edge of each harness. From the angle the warp is coming from the back beam to the heddles and then the reed it looks like it won’t be a problem.
It doesn’t look like it’s possible to remove the unused heddles without literally ungluing the wooden frame around the harness for the heddles.
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I’m so glad you sorted it out, Anita!!!! Keep an eye on possible abrasion as the selvedge threads pass the heddles on the side if your warp. They look a bit close to me but the warp will pull in a wee bit once you start weaving.
The next time you want to weave something the full width of your loom, you could spread your extra heddles throughout as you are threading the loom. Maybe you could keep a note as to how many heddles you have on each shaft and then next time when you know how many heddles each shaft needs, you know how many you need to spread across each shaft. Keep us posted!
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I just finished the first sample project, Asymmetry at the Loom; I loved it and learned so much! I had a tension issue that I am not sure how to handle; I have noticed this on my weaving before. I have what appears to be a “bunching up” of the in the areas of the ribbons that support the fabric beam. Please see photos. I will post pictures of the final projects when wet-finishing is complete. Thank you! -
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Yes, Sandra, I am tying onto a metal rod, lashed onto the original rod at the back of the loom, as Jane teaches. Early on the project, when I noticed it happening, I unwound just enough to place some paper between the ties and the beam, thinking that would help. Maybe I need to do that all along until the bump evens out? If that makes sense…
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Back at you, Nancy! Have you unwound the cloth beam to see what’s happening on your cloth beam. It seems odd that it is in one spot. Sometimes, if I’m weaving something fine – I do put a corrugated cardboard bit around my cloth beam to prevent anything distorting the cloth. However, it seems to be mostly fine so I’m really curious as to what is under there causing the problem. 🤔
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That’s what I thought also; when I did unwind it before getting too far into the project, the raised areas were just over both grosgrain ribbons where they are stapled onto the beam. I have an older Harrisville Designs loom (new to me) so I wonder if it’s just the design of the loom.
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I planned to use part of my header for the fringe on my first sample on the loom. Do I take the header out before I wash the sample?
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Hi, Everyone. Maybe one or more of you can help me with my question. I am working on the first sample warp for Season 2 – after changing the red stripe to dark gray and thinking how I want to weave. I love the little scalloped edge created in weaving without carrying the second thread, say, three of a color and one of another color, but I two different problems with the weft. First, I made the scallops all right, but they were not both on the face of the cloth. Plus, at some point I did something differently, and the scallops magically changed to the side opposite to where they were before, up on one side/underneath on the other. I am determined to learn, but now I find that I am not making the scallops at all, no thread crossing the three threads at the ends of the rows. What am I missing? I went back to the lesson videos for the starting sample, but for the life of me I can’t get back to where Jane wove the scallops. Any ideas for me? Thanks.
Lucy
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So I’m about to wind the warp for Asymmetry, and I’ve got a very basic question: how are you winding for your stripes? Are you counting threads of each color and adding each new color as you come to it? I warp back-to-front on my ancient LeClerc Fanny loom.
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Hi Rebecca, I’m not sure what you are asking. Your stripes are included in your warp as you wind it, you could review Season 1, Episode 1 on Making a Good Warp to see if that answers your question.
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Hey Lucy,
I saw what you are seeing with my scallops, as well. I played around and found that it depends on which side you start weaving. So, if both scallops are coming up in the right, I unwove to the beginning of the last added color and restarted it from the opposite side. That gave me scallops on both sides, rather than a single thick scallop on one side. I only know this because I did the same thing!
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I may have taken the asymmetry too far, lol. I have a sectional warp. I decided to beam this in 20 sections, at 14 epi, being a happy medium of the range of setts for this project (and making very annoying sections as the stripes split up irregularly, and each section has to be threaded individually in the tension box, but I made that choice). Anyway, I completely lost my head, and centred it as a 10 inch weaving width, instead of 20, and didn’t clue into this until I was 7 sections into it (I blame the pandemic for everything I do wrong). Since this is PW, and it’s still centred on treadles 1 and 2, I can just move my bench to the left. My concern is what will happen when I’m jacking up harnesses that have a warp weighted to the left of the loom? Am I crazy to even consider it? Taking 7” of sectional warp off and rebeaming it will be ugly. Really don’t want to do it if I can get away with waaaay off-centre warp. Any guesses?
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It’s not so much the sectional aspect. Really the question is whether a jack loom can handle having the weight of the warp off to one side. If no one has an opinion, I may take the plunge and I’ll report back.
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Thanks! Actually, I tried putting some weights on the left side of a couple harnesses and jacking them, and it looks like they were going up evenly. I’m optimistic, but I will report back. Cheers!
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After I replaced the zinger with grey, I started getting a wobbly fell line. Adding weight to the 10 warp threads I can get it straight for a bit, although I have to put high tension on the rest of the warp. That makes me think why don’t I just put lest weight on the 10 threads? Then I get into a game of more weight, less weight, and individually beating the weft with a needle across those 10 threads. Driving me crazy. Some wisdom please? -
Hi Alexander, it is a matter of equalizing the tension between the new zinger and the warp. It looks like you could put a bit more weight on it, what do you have attached as a weight, something that you can change in increments? Jane uses S hooks and washers, I use film cans and pennies – remember those 🤣
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How many shafts is Jane using for this sample? I’ve seen her use use four and put one warp thread in each shaft. 1 in 1st, 1 in 2nd and so on. In this video it seems like maybe she’s only using two shafts? Thanks.
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I just came across an “possible learning experience “ I’ve never had before. I modified my pattern to increase width, and while warping I have a couple places where I warp an uneven number of ends (15). What do I do with the single string at my cross (not a loop like the rest), when I put it on my loom? Just tie it in the warping bar?
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This is my first project and I’m a bit confused. In warping the Asymmetry dishcloths, can I just smush all the threads together to make more room on the warping board? Jane sometimes shows 20”wide or more warped chains. I went ahead and stopped after warping half the pattern and chained it because I didn’t know for sure. Afterwards I started thinking maybe that wasn’t the best thing to do, but I wasn’t sure how pushing it all together on the warping pegs would go either. I’m very new at this so any advice is appreciated. Also advice about how to now work with two chains. Thanks
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This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by
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This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by
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This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by
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When I warped those, I too made 2 warp chains. You can “mush” those threads too close together such that they begin to overlap. It is better to have a couple of different warp chains than to do that.
Good luck with this first project! May your desire to weave be strong!
Also, multiple viewings of Jane’s techniques are a great idea….I have been weaving for years and find that her videos abs instructions make me a MUCH better weaver!
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Thank you both. I will rewatch the video again. I already have multiple times, but apparently something didn’t inherently stick when it came to the actual doing of it. 😉 She makes it look so easy, and then when I try the first time I’m all thumbs. I was so worried that I’d ruined it right from the start when I realized I’d never seen Jane do two chains and “what the heck did I just do” came across my mind, but I just wasn’t sure about pushing all 280 threads together on one warping board. Realizing that I can move forward and finish warping the second part, lay two chains worth across the raddle, tie on, etc is a relief. It will be more cumbersome than just one chain, but I will get help holding it and fingers crossed it works! Thank you again.
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OMG!! I am so excited! I remember when Jane was wound on one of the warps and showed us at the end when everything was the same length that meant you did a good job! I think warps are just as pretty as the end product when they have all the colors running through them under tension! I chose to go ten yards.
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I completed the first sample or dish towel in my case. Started the second one and did not like my design so changed it up. We’ll see when it comes off the loom how crazy it looks. I was dying to try some boucle so I wove a couple inches with the green…uh no!! Switched to the Natural and while I don’t think it goes well graphically I love the feel of it for towels! I am going to need boucle
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I have a question that is probably very ignorant and I’m not sure I can even describe it well. When I’m using my rigid heddle loom, I always enter from the right on an “up” shed and from the left on a “down” shed. I see Jane making decisions based on not wanting to have all her starts and stops on one side. So let’s say she’s using 4 shafts but only 2 treadles. With my RGH thinking, I’d always want to be coming from, say, the right on treadle 2 and the left on treadle 1. Is this me putting the RIGID into rigid heddle weaving?! I weave a lot of tartan towels and always balance my starts and stops by preferring odd numbers of picks where it works out OK. But completely disassociating the direction from which you enter the shed from the treadle gives more freedom. I’m wondering, though, if it’ll be confusing.
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You don’t normally need to worry about what side your shuttle is entering your shed, Gail. Sometime in your weaving life, you might be weaving with two shuttles and/or odd numbers of picks designed into your cloth. What Jane is concerned about is when you start using a new bobbin and/or colour, that you don’t get the build-up of the new yarn all on one side. If you finish a stripe on the left and tuck it in, then start your new stripe on the right. Make sense?
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First sample – followed the instructions and looked for square
Second sample – 3 grey 1 white, with red zingers
3rd sample used some Fibronacci numbers for the colours
4th sample some ‘plaidish’ patterns
5th sample – in 3rds
6th sample – replaced the red zinger with the grey stripe (doubt I’ll ever do that again, but it was worth learning how to do it!!! I felt better to see that others had the same tension issues as I did) Divided in 3rds again
7th sample – opened up the sett – another thing I hope I don’t ever have to do again – divided in 8. The blue and turquoise are boucle
8th sample – divided in 3rds
Loved getting more experience warping, and with different colours – my previous warps have all been 1 colour. Learned a lot about getting the tension correct and planning out the patterns. Looking forward to the next project.
Thanks Jane!!!
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Lopend up the set to 12 ppi end wove with mohair, playing around
My husband walks around saying “wee little fart” now! Thanks Jane! LOL!
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