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I have changed video quality, and fought with section 2.2.3 until i am ready to commit a murder. every 30 seconds we get the little whirling circle and if I wait 2 minutes, or 4, it might deign to start again. Enough to drive you to drink. and so saying, i will now open a bottle of wine and just give up. The last section worked just fine.
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Hi Leigh, it sounds like it’s a connection issue you’re having. Did you have the same problem with the other 3 videos and have you tried refreshing your browser and then play this episode again? Also, what are you viewing the videos on, a PC, Ipad…? Our tech guru is in next week, but we’ll try and help you with it until then.
How’s the wine? 😉
Ginette -
I had the same problem with my Mac computer. The same the last section worked fine. Just persevered. Wee fart of a pickle.
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Watching this episode I see already I’m going to have a problem. I was planning on using my stash of light and dark grey 2/8 cotillon with my 2/8 cotton… but as I’m working on my warping board, I’m seeing how much thinner the cottolin is than the cotton. But I will forge ahead and I will certainly learn about mixing these two threads in a warp! Don’t know that I’ll get squares, though.
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The wine was just what the doctor ordered at that time. i came back tonight and before playing the episode, changed the quality to the lowest setting. Worked a treat. I am a tech dinosaur, so I have my problems.
so far so good. The other episodes worked with no problem.-
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Hi Leigh…I know this is been quite awhile since you posted. But I use to have connections problems. I got the company to come give me new routers. Still all to no avail. Finally, I got a hold of a really informative tech from the company. If you live in an area where several others are using same company to connect to the internet and you are using the company router you are going to have problems! To get around this you need to buy a different router from the store. And then call your internet provider to assist in connecting it….NOW if you can’t afford to buy a new router or it’s not worth the problems then you want to watch videos when there most likely is many less users on at the same time! Early morning or middle of night works very well…Middle of night not so much on weekends! To add there is a special type of router that works best…I have forgotten what it is…Please call your technical service…There are several routers that meet the qualification…
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I might have made my warp too long, but I used the entire white cone before I even started weaving. I’d like to recommend ordering a second white cone with the pack. Thanks — this is really interesting!
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I just finished one where I did the 3 dark/1 white repeat. When I switched colors when both were on the same side, I did the jump the bump, dive the dip thingy. Was I supposed to or is it not necessary when doing those 3/1 scallops? Thanks!
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Hello Jane,
I just made the color change in my warp. Is the wrapped pin the final solution for the rest of the weaving or is there something else I should do once I have gotten some of the new piece woven?
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Hi Karen, by the ‘wrapped pin’, do you mean when you’ve attached the new threads to the woven piece with a pin? If so, after you’ve woven for a while, probably 1/2 yard, the threads should stay in place. If you’re not sure if you should remove the pin, you could leave it in and remove it when you’ve taken the cloth off the loom
Ginette
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I posted this after the wrong episode so am reposting it here. Sorry for the repetition.
I haven’t started on the sample yet (waiting for my order of 8/2 cotton from you guys — due on April 2), but I’m watching the episode to familiarize myself ahead of time.
Question re: weaving to a square. Should I judge whether it’s square when the warp is under the usual weaving tension, or should I release the tension and then check?
And on the 4/4 repeats — do I create the interlock of threads at the selvedges (the dive & bump) or just loop the edge threads across 4 picks of the other color? (I read your answer about the 3 and 1, but 4 seems a lot to “scallop”)? -
Hi Martha, I usually square under tension but you can certainly try both and see the difference. I do the dive/bump with 4/4 threads. For the base sample asymmetry, I did not run the white thread up the coloured sections, I tucked the tails in. And no worries about posting in 2 different spots 🙂
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I have a question re 2/16 cotton.
Hi! I want to use 2/16 and make a series of napkins rather than use 2/8. Jane’s sett chart says to sett 2/16 at 24epi for a firm fabric. This doesn’t line up with the recommended setts on the yarn page in Jane’s shop. Can someone please confirm the 24 epi? Thanks so much.
PS. I am really loving the Guild. Jane is so fun to be with. So much enthusiasm and joy. -
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Hi –
I’m late to joining the guild, but loving it as I’m catching up. A quick question on this project – will one cone of the white be enough for a 6 yard warp and to weave all the samples Jane shows?
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You will certainly have enough with one cone to wind your 6 yard warp and weave the Asymmetry Sample plus more. Jane would have been working on a longer warp and she hopes we’ll look at what she has woven as a starting off point to our own creations. Running out of white might give you the impetuous to explore with other colours in your stash. Please share what you create on the Forum, Rachel!
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I may have missed it but when you replace the red warp with the dark gray, how long did you make that chain or how can you figure out how long to make it? You didn’t mention changing out the dark gray with the teal, when did you do that?
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That’s a hard question to answer – it depends 😉 It depends on how much warp you have left in your warp. If you know how long your warp was to start with and know how much you have already woven, you should be able to make a good “guesstimate”. You can change the colour stripe whenever you are ready to change things up.
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I am a new weaver and really learning a lot from these videos. Can someone please explain what is meant by “scalloping” on the selvages?
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Can I ask how long it took people to wind the warp for the Asymmetry project? Beginners vs. Jane or other experienced adepts?
I thought it might take me an hour or two, but it ended up being 3.5 hours or so, with a couple of tiny breaks. This was 6 yards on a warping board (not a mill), in two segments (only half the warp would fit at one time), and with a single thread at a time. I had to prop the board up tied to a couple of chairs, so my approach wasn’t entirely optimal, but I’d still like to get an idea of how much time to set aside in an average scenario in order to complete the project warps in one “sitting” as recommended.
I did have a very good experience with the tight chaining demonstrated in Season One, put the cross right up at the end, and I left off any tying except for the cross. No training wheels! This is only the third warp I have ever wound, so I am trying to establish good habits with this course.
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Just beginning with the guild. First Asymmetry sample is a towel for the towel exchange at MAFA in 1 week.
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The best place to post a photo is on the Online Guild Forum under the thread More on the Division of space and the Asymmetry Sample. If you look in the FAQ’s at the top of the page, you will find help in uploading a photo so we can see what you have created!
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Hi, I wound my warp for this sample and it just occurred to me that i wound three dark grey stripes after the red one instead of two dark grey stripes at that point. I know it will change the graphic but will this ruin the graphic ? I am content to weave it as is, but would like to know what could be done in such a case to remove them. I think it would involve doing something to the 10 dark grey threads and the 10 white threads following them in order to keep the sequence correct but i have no clue what to do….how would i take them out? The warp is on the back rod, with lease sticks in, and ready to be put in the raddle.
Thanks so much for this learning experience, it is definitely increasing my skill, even if i am making some mistakes along the way 🙂-
Go with what you have wound! It just a different version of the sample. As you will hear Jane say to you: it’s not right, it’s not wrong – it’s just different! Enjoy
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Glad to see I am not the only one just getting to the Asymmetry lesson. I have so enjoyed these lessons. It takes me a while because I stop to take notes, sketch out things, etc. I clearly was not listening in math class at some point because I had never heard of Fibonacci rule until a couple years ago. But even then, I did not understand how to use it when designing graphics until Jane’s lessons! I feel much more capable of designing or playing with design now. I hope to get the Asymmetry samples done over the next week.!
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This just totally blows my mind, but in a good way! Can’t wait to get the warp wound and on the loom to start playing. How many picks can you do the scallop rather than dip/bump? Would a sequence of 8 be too many, do you think? And, I have many times used Jan Brett’s beautiful illustrations as inspiration for knitting patterns, so I’m excited to think about them with weaving inspiration too!
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It’s an “it depends” answer 😉 If you are not planning to use your sample, then a small scallop of about 6 wouldn’t be a problem. However, personally – I don’t like to have a scallop that might catch on something and pull the thread back out of the side of the warp. I tend to only do very small scallops and secure most of my weaving with the “dip/bump”. I’d rather be safe than sorry. Have fun with Sample One!!! You are on an amazing journey.
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This is probably a real stupid question to all you great weavers. I am brand new and this is my first warp, with saying that, my question is: When it says in the warping sequence of 30 bleached does that mean 15 in the upper part of the cross and 15 in the lower part of the cross or 30 in the upper part of the cross and 30 in the lower part of the cross?
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Hi Holly – you can find a copy of the video on hemstitching on the JST Knowledge Base – along with a lot of other information. Happy hemming!
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Hi Diane, if you wanted to make dish towels out of all your samples – each sample would require unique calculations. For instance, you would have to increase each square in the grid on the colour samples and the colour and weave sample, etc. Jane will also show you how to open up your sett to increase the width of your sample while it’s on the loom, with a different weight yarn. Watch each series of videos when you get to them and then decide what you want to do. There is soooo much to learn 😉
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Not seeing any images on this thread so I’m not sure if I’m posting in the right place. Thrilled to be working through Season 2 and trying to take my time to play! First pic is my first warp working through the samples Jane demo’d. I made them into full sized towels and ran out of warp! Ooops! But I got wonderful practice hemstitching. My first time and I feel very comfortable with the basic version now.
I didn’t want to leave the lesson quite yet so I put another warp on – longer and with different colors and fiber. Really liked the last sample Jane showed in the classroom so opened sett to 16 epi and used 2/8 cotton for warp but boucle for weft (except for zinger which I kept in cotton). Great learning lesson. My first time with boucle and observing the difference between 18epi and 16epi. Everything is washed up and wonderful – though I still have some hemming to do.
Thanks everyone!!!
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I have a question for Jane or whomever can answer it. In the YouTube video “Warping the Louet Spring Loom”, Jane threads the warp on 8 shafts, then does a tie-up for and weaves plain weave. I have a Louet Spring Loom and for the first sample I only used four shafts and of course only had to use two treadles. I’m ready to start the color and weave gamp and wondered if it would be ok to use 8 shafts rather than just??? Yes, I overdid the question marks.
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Hi Mary, you could spread your warp over 8 shafts, if you reeeeally wanted to, but – my mind brings up a “why bother”. You and your Spring will have lots of time to explore 8 shaft weaving, but PW has so many ways of creating exquisite fabric, I’d just enjoy the journey. JMHO 😉 The last four harnesses on my David are getting a good rest these days as I continue to explore PW.
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Hi Jane. Here I am in Australia, social distancing because of Corona virus. So stuck at home with my husband who has Alzheimers Disease. I thought this would be a wonderful opportunity to get stuck in to your course. I’m enjoying it so much. Love the Asymmetry towels. But where to find a stash of photographs?? Then I remembered Shutterstock (online stock photos) and the first thing to come up was a beautiful (???) photo of the virus. I’m not much good at finding colours in pictures, so I threw it into the Adobe colour scheme creator which came up with 5 beautiful colours (including a “zinger”).
So the colours I have picked for my Sample 1 are: Teal 5068, Rouge vin 5115, Noir 83, Stone 8115, Brique 985.
Looking forward to getting to know my Leclerc Artisat a bit better. It’s been hanging around for a few years now doing a better job at collecting dust than weaving (although I have done a few projects on it. Love weaving but winding the warp and dressing the loom has always been confronting. I am feeling a lot more confident now after watching you.)
So I’ll order the cottons (I’m afraid that I will have to use my local supplier — freight from the US is way to expensive here!!!) and get started asap. Looking forward to keeping in touch and having you there to help when the problems arise.
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What a delight your message is, Jenni! I’ll make sure that Jane sees it – she will be delighted. I’ve seen pictures of the coronavirus and thought it a beautiful design of nature. I’m really looking forward to seeing photos of your Asymmetry sample. BTW – Jane’s studio is on Salt Spring Island, between Vancouver Island and the southern mainland of British Columbia, Canada. So when you watch Jane, picture her in her Studio, on a beautiful island that is home to many writers, artists and weavers!
PS – it doesn’t make shipping to Australia any cheaper 😉
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I enjoyed weaving sample one. I have to say though that I wound up with different lengths of towels but I did have fun trying to create. I sketched an idea after the first towel and then tried to weave it. Again I say I had fun but the four and half towels I wound up with are not the same length which was my fault entirely. Oh well I can keep them or give only one to a recipient. Learned a lot though. I’m trying to create my warp for Sample 2 and it is HARD. I will persevere and hope I get it somewhat right on my loom.Wanted to post pictures of those towels but can’t seem to manage that from my MAC.
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Hi,
I’m learning a lot by working through Seasons 1 and 2 simultaneously. I’m a new weaver though and I don’t have a stash built up. I get the idea of expanding your warp in Sample 1 by threading the reed differently (16 epi to 12 epi) but I don’t get how Jane knows to use 8/4 cotton for the weft when the warp is 8/2 cotton. The Master Sett chart assumes that the warp and weft use the same weight yarn. Can I use 8/2 cotton in the weft since I don’t have a stash? And is there a Master Sett chart for warps and wefts of different yarn weights? Thanks so much!
Carol
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Jane has talked about getting a 50/50 (balanced) weave structure. In order to do that you take your normal sett for your warp and your normal sett for your weft. Add the 2 together and divide by 2 to get your sett for a different weight warp and weft. For instance, if your warp is 8/2 cotton and you decide you are going to sett it at 18 epi – then you decide that you’ll use 8/4 cotton as your weft at 12 epi as listed on the Master Sett Chart. You add the 18 + 12 = 30 divided by 2 = 15 or 16 epi. I would thread 16 because it’s easier to divide it up in a variety of reeds. Either way, you would have a balanced cloth.
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Ah, this is so very helpful! Thanks so much! I do love a good equation to refer to! 😉
Last question … If I double my 8/2 threads, will that approximate an 8/4? Since I don’t have a stash yet.
Thank you!
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Yes, you can, but be careful keeping the tension even on both threads – it can be a challenge.
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I think I am beginning to understand how to manage selvedges, but I would love if you could confirm my understanding. It sounds like when weaving with multiple colors you can choose whether to allow scalloping at the edges OR to interlace the threads. If you want to interlace the threads, that’s when you “jump the bump, dive the dip.”. If you want scallops, you just switch the colors and ignore the bumps and dives. Is that right?
I haven’t liked the look of my selvedges when I’ve tried interlacing. I get knobs at the selvedges that make them look more bumpy than I would like. Perhaps this is just a matter of practice? At any rate, I just want to make sure I’m not mixing up concepts!
Thank you!
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Here’s a wonderful article that Jane has written and it lives on our Knowledge Base. I personally wouldn’t ignore securing the weft at the selvedge, unless you are weaving narrow stripes. Having scallops of unsecured weft could give you an edge that could catch on something. If I haven’t totally answered your question, let us know.
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Hi Sandra,
Thanks for sharing the tips for good selvedges. I’ve been practicing with these, and they definitely help. But my immediate question is specifically about managing threads of multiple corners at the selvedges. If I have just 1-3 picks of a light color and I want to switch to a dark, what are my options? Do I always “jump the bump” or is there a choice to be made, like scalloping?
I’m honestly just trying to pin down the terminology! Is the choice between scalloping versus “jump the bump …” And is “jump the bump” the same as interlacing, or do these mean different things?
I hope I asked my questions more clearly this time! Thanks as always for your help!
Carol
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I guess where I’m getting a wee bit confused is with the word scallop. I don’t usually think of that word with reference to a selvedge but more of a decorative trim, say in knitting 😉 Have you watched Jane weaving the Colour and Weave gamp? I think just watching and listening to her weave that sample, will clarify things. Let me know if you still have questions afterwards. Visuals always make a huge difference to me!
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I guess where I’m getting a wee bit confused is with the word scallop. I don’t usually think of that word with reference to a selvedge but more of a decorative trim, say in knitting 😉 Have you watched Jane weaving the Colour and Weave gamp? I think just watching and listening to her weave that sample, will clarify things. Let me know if you still have questions afterwards. Visuals always make a huge difference to me!
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Sorry, Sandra! I guess there are times that emailing communications goes awry! Let me try to ask this differently one more time (and I won’t use the word scallop). Are you saying that you ALWAYS “jump the bump” when changing colors, even when making stripes with 1-3 picks?
I’ll quit asking if this still doesn’t land! 🙂 Thank you ….
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The direct answer is no 🤣 – if you are, for instance, weaving the colour gamp, and you are weaving a light, dark, dark, light – you can safely carry the yarn up two picks, possibly three. Any more than that, you would come into having an unsecured thread running up the sides of your piece, and they are not nice. Have you watched Jane weaving the Colour and Weave gamp yet? If you haven’t reached that yet – skip ahead and watch it, that whole gamp is weaving light and dark picks. AND – never quit asking, Carol!!! Weaving terms can sometimes add a bit of spice to trying to get an idea across.
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Hi,
Is there a video where Jane shows how to “open up” the sett? I hope I’ve used the correct terminology. I’m assuming you cut in front of the reed, replace the reed with another, or rethread the current reed with a new sett. After rethreading, do you next just tie on in front again? Thank you!
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Hello. I am not quite at this stage in the lessons yet, but wanted to take advantage of the Back to the Loom sale this weekend and order the yarn for the Sample One. Is it possible to do it using other colours, keeping in mind a gradation of one colour and a zinger? I am not really inspired by black/grey and red. Thanks!
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Finally “finished” my Season 2 sample 1. This is my 3rd ever warp. I still have so much to learn for even selvedges, getting a balanced fabric, and hemming, but it’s done and I had a good time. For me it was a very challenging sample, but I learned a lot. Jane’s teaching is very good, the video is great, and this forum really helps me as a beginner. I have so much to learn. I’m a little terrified of making the Sample 2 warp. I shall have to review the Season 1 episodes, with new eyes!
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Hi there,
I’ve finished the Asymmetry sample and loved the idea of changing a warp color. I now have a warp on the loom with small 1-2 thread stripes of a color that is not working. In total it would be 24 threads that would need to be replaced. Is this many threads recommended? They are evenly spaced throughout the warp.
Thanks in advance!
Carrie
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Hi Sandra,
Thanks for your quick response!
I am not far from the beginning of the warp so I was going to wind back and tie on again. Then try to evenly weight the threads on the back. Am I being too hopeful??
Carrie
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Hi. Really enjoying the course and find Jane’s teaching so clear. I have ‘sorted’ myself out by multiple viewings of the videos. There is one thing I can not get correct. When two threads come through the Reed I cannot get a square when weaving. I have tried repositioning the yarn on the apron rod but it moves back. I am sure it is simple answer.
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Thanks Sandra. I have noticed that when washed things improved. But wanted to check in case I was doing a simple error. Thought it could be the beating as I weave on an Erica loom which is lightweight. A great loom to see how much I take to weaving – yes that worked now will order a Spring 2 in January in post Brexit Britain!
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When I start weaving I’ve been told to split the ends when changing colors.
It is a long way of doing things on every color changes, but now all my colors changing
appears. Am I using to long ends. It is surely more efficient not splitting the ends but what do I do wrong.
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Sylvie, are you ending and starting your new bands of colour on opposite sides of your cloth to prevent build-up? Have you washed your samples yet? Sometimes the ends relax into the cloth after it’s washed. You could just secure your yarn changes about an inch into the cloth, they might not show as much. The more you practice, the better you get so don’t worry too much about it and just weave. However, you are also noticing things that are happening in your fabric, and that’s good! That’s how we all learn to become better weavers.
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When I open up the warp from 18 epi to 12 epi do I try to get 12 ppi with the boucle I am using? Will that a make a square negative space?
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HI,
I have been weaving on and off for a couple of years. I use tapestry, RH and 4h looms. I am using my Baby Wolf for this workshop. I have learned so much about why and what is happening at my loom. I have woven my sample and now I am having fun with my sketch book and weaving the sketches to life on my loom. I haven’t quite gotten the courage up to change out a section of warp. I will probably watch that part a few more times. Thanks for making your years of experience available to us!
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Problem solving help appreciated. Not sure where this really belongs as it is about warping but because it is for this 1st sample project I’m putting it here.
I’ve used a warping reel for the first time and had to make a partial warp because I ran out of space at the last corner before the bottom peg. I’ve got 170 ends on this first part of the warp. By the time I got to the end, I noticed that the tension of the first 30 ends warped had really loosened significantly. I’m trying to understand why. I did do a bonehead thing and perhaps that is the culprit. At about 50 or so ends I saw that the bottom corner was getting tight and I was hoping to fit the whole warp on so I somewhat easily slip the bottom corner up about 2 inches. I’m guessing that that messed up the section at the top?? Does that make sense and seem like the likely culprit?
Can I use this warp or will this be problematic? I was hoping I could tighten it all up on the loom. Any help appreciated.
(In the picture you can see the top ends of the warp sagging. This is the first sample project I’m just using different colours that I already had in my stash.)
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I think you will be able to salvage your warp, Leslie. You are going to have to put it on more slowly, moving the looser threads back along the warp as you wind it on. That looseness will be very difficult to remove once the warp is on your back beam. If you put on in a way that allows you to remove that looseness before it wraps onto the warp beam, you will – hopefully – be OK. It will be a slow process but you should be able to save it. Because, I don’t have a lot of room behind my loom – I still wind my warp on using the method that Jane demonstrates in her original YouTube videos that were created for Louet. Let us know how it all works out.
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Thanks Sandra. If I get into trying to smooth out the tension as you suggest and find it’s not working, does it make sense to try and isolate the section that is loose and just cut it off and redo that part of the warp? (is that even possible?) It seems to be isolated to the 30 ends at the beginning because if memory serves there is actually a break in the warp….meaning it is no longer a continuous thread between the first 30 ends and the rest of the warp.
Haha, I’m not feeling overly confident about smoothing out a 6 yard warp with it turning into a tangled gong show but I’m willing to give it a shot.
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If you were able to secure the first thread of black to your first peg, you might be able to save it, but be prepared to for a lesson you will never forget 😏 Keep in mind that the whole warp is worth the price of 1 cone of 8/2 cotton plus all the time you are investing in trying to save it. At this point – I probably would call it a lesson learned and wind another warp being very aware of my tension as I wound it. Just looking at your warp my guess is that you were timid when you first started and then either consciously or unconsciously compensated as you continued. Getting your warp evenly tensioned does take practice and more practice. You could consider this your first practice warp. Keep in mind that putting a bad warp on your loom will not help you weave good cloth – you could be creating more headaches!
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I replaced the zinger with dark grey and I can’t get rid of this frowny fell. If I add lots of weight, and then tension the rest of the warp as tight as piano strings, it resolves, but then creeps back after a while. I add more weight, take away weight, adjust tension…. I feel like I’m shooting in the dark. Any wisdom? This is at 12 epi, so good and sleezy. Easy to move threads around.
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Hi Alexander,
Did you replace the zinger with the same yarn as the rest of the warp? What happens when you loosen your tension a bit on both warp and the weight?
I think once it’s off the loom and you give the cloth a gentle tug on the bias, it should straighten everything out. What weft are you using? it seems thicker in some places.
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Yes, same 8/2 cotton for the warp. The weft is slub cotton. Really happy to hear you suggest a tug of the bias. It’s so loose in threads, I feel optimistic that could work.
I wasn’t able to get lasting or consistent results from changing the weight on the 10 threads, or the warp tension generally, so I was hoping there was some standard response about increasing or decreasing weight. I like just giving it a tug! I’ll post the final result.
Thanks for your help.
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Oh Jane, You crack me up and make me laugh! I am always trying to find a way to use up bobbins! I consider it a personal victory! To hear you talk about using up bobbins to get a free one made me giggle! Thanks! Really enjoying the guild. I’ve learned so much, and I get a good laugh from your happy personality!
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I love seeing the samples! I am about to start measuring and warping my loom, and I find the guild so encouraging. When I get the first sample done, I will leave the warp on to play with it and cut it off when I finish with it. Every tea towel I hemstitch at the beginning and the end to mark it, right? I do so want these to be done and as perfect as I can make them. Some of the weaving that I see is so beautiful. Thanks for your support and encouragement, it means so much to me.
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Hi Jocelyn, you hemstitch items that will have a fringe – like samples you are keeping for a reference or a scarf/shawl. If you are weaving tea towels, you weave the hem – the section that you will be tucking in, the back and the front – then start weaving your towel. I usually uses sewing thread or a finer thread for the tuck in part, so my hems won’t be too thick 🙂 When you have finished the first towel, throw a several picks in a colour of thread that will stand out between your towels and start weaving your next towel. Then, when you take them off your loom, you will see where you can safely cut them apart for hemming.
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Hi Sandra, I was hoping to get some clarification on the problem Leslie had with her warp losing tension in January. If it was me I would have dressed the loom like normal then just before threading when you cut that end, could I not have soaked up all the loose tension there? that end would be uneven so I would have to cut further back, but would that not have solved her problem? I just want to understand in case I ever have this problem.
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Hi Jocelyn! I got my warp done last night and hoping to dress the loom when I get off work. Looks like we are relatively close in the process. Feel free to message me here or on Facebook so we can keep up with eachother. I already messed it up and it’s not even off the warping mill yet! LOL!
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Hi Michelle, I thought I would pipe in here as you are making reference by my loosey goosy warp. I did redo the warp with good success. After I completed weaving it, with all the confidence that comes with having completed a project…..I went ahead and loaded the loose warp with very little issue. I just took it really slowly and had to do a bit of smoothing and tugging as I was winding on. Some of my ends were uneven at the front when tying on but it was all very manageable.
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First time making dish cloths and I’m trying to figure out how to measure them as I go so each one is about the same length. These are about 15 1/2” wide and I’d like them about 26” long plus the extra for the hem. Do I just measure each one as I go and try and get them close or is there a way I’m not considering? Thanks
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What works for me is to pin a measuring tape on the side of the cloth, moving the pins up as the cloth winds over the cloth beam. IKEA has paper ones that you can get when you shop there and need to measure an item you are planning to buy 😉 Don’t forget to allow for the shrinkage both ways after you take them off the loom and wash them. If you are using the Asymmetry sample draft – the finished width will be about 12 ½” wide. You can open up the sett and use a bigger weft thread, like boucle or 8/4 cotton to weave tea towels. Most important, have fun!
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