- This topic has 41 replies, 28 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 5 months ago by
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I am so struck in this episode with how quiet your loom is! I have a 48″ Macomber with metal heddles and heavy crank mechanisms. I love the loom, passed to me from my mother, but it does feel rather noisy and industrial while weaving. On your loom, the Texsolv heddles and various mechanisms for turning the beams forward, etc. all seem so peaceful and calming! Just interesting….
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So, what I’m getting from this episode is that in order to successfully have a dramatic change in width from the warp beam to the front beam (wider rather than narrower), texsolve heddles are key. I can’t imagine not having broken warp threads with the metal heddles on either of my looms.
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Still having same problem. Screen goes black four to eight minutes into the video and I’ve tried them all!
Rose-
Hi Rose,
Have you check the Forum topic ‘Online Guild Episodes – video playback’ ? Alastair posted some tips on viewing the episodes. Let us know if you’re still having issues.
Ginette -
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Sooo… I am just wondering do I need to buy texsolve heddles for my floor looms or can this widening of the warp be done on metal heddles without driving one over the deep end with broken threads!! (lol) Have you done this on metal heddles Jane?
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Hi There,
I just did it with a repp warp going from 8″ wide to 24″ wide on my fanny 🙂 All I did was fan the heddles out at the sides of the warp once I resleyed it.
I wove 3 yards off that warp before I came to the end. Not one broken thread 🙂 -
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Over the last week I resleyed a silk warp from 20 epi to 18 – wanting to open it up more. It worked beautifully. The weft is merino wool. Just took first piece off and it still feels a bit beefier than I want. So going to go to 15 epi next. Love that this concept is something I found myself doing on my own. Kept looking at the warp angles waiting for ends to start breaking and it hasn’t happened! This is all on my Baby Wolf with metal heddles. I feel as if a new part of the weaving world is opening up for me.
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Hi …So ..I don’t quite get it? Do I completely cut the warp and then re:sley at a wider width?
e.g. i currently have a warp on at 20epi and its 12″ wide in the reed. In order to widen it to 14″ or 16″ how many epi do I sley in the reed..or does it stay the same?
Thanks.
Debbie Carnegie-
Hi Debbie, yes cut the warp, leave a good length as if you were tying on for the first time, then resley the Reed. To widen your warp, you’ll be changing your sett from 20 EPI to a more open one. Look on the Reed Substitution Chart to the sett you want and the Reed you have and resley according to the chart.
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Working on a double weave 8/2 cotton warp with 8/2 cotton weft sleyed 36 epi (18 epi per layer). Re-threaded a overshot pattern (now really weaving a complementary PW) but couldn’t get it square, so I resleyed it to 40 epi and tried 16/2 cotton for weft. Better but not what I wanted and I was frustrated so I resleyed at 8 epi and used cotton boucle for warp. Got my pattern square and my confidence back so I replayed at 40 epi and used 8/2 cotton as weft and it work. All this on a Leclerc Nilus 4 shaft with inserted eye wire heddles. No broken threads.
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I heard Jane say we should download the pdf on “architecture” but I don’t see it listed anywhere. Does it have a different title? Where can I find the pdf? Thanks!
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I am still confused how to resley. I am assuming I leave the yarn in the heddles and replace the reed but how do I keep the yarn in order?
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Wow, this lesson got me completely by surprise, but the other way around.
I was like: Why should I think this is not possible?
Then it hit me. As I am also a spinner I looked at other cultures from the beginning and so I knew that there are very simple ways to weave beautiful cloth.
I was more like: Oh, my warp should be put in the raddle in exactly the same width as it will be in the reed? If you say so, I will try that (and honestly didn’t notice a difference to just beaming the warp spread out without taking time to measure the exact width.
AND I never wanted metal heddles because of the noise they made. The only point where I ever had abrasion is on the edges if I have too much draw in and there it is the reed that causes the problem.
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Weaving on a Fanny with wire heddles—what does “fan the heddles” mean?
Is it a good idea to switch to Texsolv heddles on the Fanny—any reason not to?
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When you resley your reed, it’s good to “fan the heddles” to spread them out a bit to go straight through your reed. This prevents abrasion on your warp as it adjusts to its new width in the reed.
On the question about changing to Texsolv heddles – I’d send an email off to Leclerc Looms (nfo@leclerclooms.com) and ask them. They would be better able to advise you.
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This opens u so many possibilities! Can you beam the cloth at a ‘mid width’? Say you’re sampling between 12″ and 24″ for example, would it be possible to beam the warp at 18″? I just wonder if this would reduce the complications of variable tension for us beginners
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Do you do something special to stabilize the warp before cutting it off? I’ve seen an example elsewhere in which they wove in a couple of lease sticks before cutting to make sure the rest of the warp under tension didn’t get sucked through the reed and heddles. This is a scary idea but amazing to be able to change the project with such versatility without dressing the loom all above again!
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I usually bring my warp up to my breast beam, allowing enough length for the next tie-up before I cut. If you cut too close to the reed, you will definitely have the weight of the rest of the warp pulling it through your reed. Sometimes, if I’m concerned, I cut it small sections securing it in front of the reed as I go. Hope this helps.
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You let the reed determine how wide the fabric is once you re-sley. You can do the calculations to have an idea before you re-sley. e.g., I am lowering the sett on some 8/2 towels, did the math and know that once done, my 18″ towels sett at 24 epi, will now be 20″, sett at 20 epi, which I actually am very happy about.
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How do I pull out warp threads I want to eliminate in the resleying? Just pull them out and cut at the back beam and hope they don’t make a mess as I advance the warp?
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Can I just ask if the examples were all woven with a 10 dent Reed and it was just the dpi and ppi that were changed ? (New weaver!)
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If you are asking because a 10 dent reed is all you have, then that’s not a problem. You can check Jane’s Reed Subsitution Chart to find the right “formula” for expanding your sett on the reed you do have.
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