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Hi Jane, I’m new here, catching up on a few lessons. Very helpful. I just wanted to say, your clothes are very elegant, did you make them? Did you weave the cloth? I’m hoping to eventually weave cloth I can sew clothes with…
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Good morning, a neighbouring artist gifted me a paddle with two rows of holes, that she said would help with not holding the yarn under too much tension when warping multiple threads. I am really not sure how to use it , I am just starting out and am still watching and gathering information. Any thoughts?
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Hi Jane,
I just want to acknowledge your great talent and thorough explanations, and thank you for creating this online guild. I learned weaving from the Deborah Chandler book, and it took me about a year – it was very difficult without a teacher. I’m starting with Season One to tweak my process of warping and thought it was a good idea to start from the beginning. Just want to extend many, many thanks. Victoria -
Hi,
I am a returning On-Line guild subscriber and need the extra reinforcement of being able to go back and review previous episodes. I’ve been through most of the 1st year but needed a refresher on warping, loading and basic weaving techniques.
Two things that are still somewhat a little baffling to me are warping multiple threads in a group and tying on a new warp. If these issues are address in more detail than the cursory reference in the first year’s episodes, please direct me to the episode where I may find additional explanation of how and when one might want to employ these techniques.I guess I comprehend the tying on of a second warp but a video demonstration would be helpful. The same is true of multiple or group warps.
Thanks for all your help in the past.
Walter
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Have you had a chance to search the Online Guild Forum? There is a thread – for instance – on winding a warp with multiple threads, including photos of Jane’s hand with warp threads in it. You also might find help on tying on a second warp under pseudo warps or in the episode on Mohair Blankets in Season 1. The Indexes that Ginette has created for each season are also helpful when looking for specific information.
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Hi Walter, Welcome back! The 2 techniques are all in Season 1.
Warping with multiple ends in your warp, Season 1, Episode 1.3
Skeleton Tie up, throw, 45″ wide mohair warp
-sudo/dummy warp 9.2
-tying onto dummy warp 9.2, 5:30
Weaving
-skeleton tie up 9.2, 53:30You can also find a picture of holding the multiple threads on the forum: https://janestaffordtextiles.com/forums/topic/warping-with-multiple-ends-sample-2-colour-and-weave-gamp/
Hope this helps!
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Your videos are so helpful, joining the online guild was one of the best decisions I’ve made!
I have done a warp on a table top mill twice now and both times something is awry. It starts out all well and good (I am doing a scarf with 80 ends) but by the time I get about half way through my warp my guide string is practically falling off and my initial rounds on the mill have drastically lost their tension. I don’t know if my tension going into the warping mill is too much and causing everything to shift to accommodate, if it is too loose or if it is something else all together. The first warp ended up in a complete disaster for and broke on the loom after a once in a lifetime freak accident (and it will be a once in a lifetime issue because now I know to trust my instinct with weaving as with life!!) and I am now ready to start chaining the second. The rounds on the mill that were done last have much more tension. I wonder if I’m asking for issues on the loom.
Thank you for your guidance!-
Did you keep pushing your warp in towards your mill as you wound, Michelle? If you review “Making a Good Warp”, you will see that Jane keeps her warp tight against her mill as she winds. My thought is that you built up your warp, spreading it across your peg – which would pull in the pegs, as you maintained your necessary tension. Your warp will not have even tension across it and I fear it would be a nightmare of a warp to weave. If you go back and review that lesson, I think you will find the answer to your question. Visuals are sometimes better than words!
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Hi Sandra,
Thank you so much for your reply. I do keep my warp tight to the mill and it is not spread out on the pegs at all, but also not bunched unreasonably. When looking at a photo of it, aside from the guide string being all wonky it looks correct (as far as one new as I can tell anyways), it is when I feel it that the difference in tension is noticeable.-
Hi again, Michelle. Could you post the photo of your warp in the Forum? It would be easier to see what you are describing. Maybe your guide string wasn’t totally secure and came loose? You may be fine and be able to get the warp on the loom with a bit of effort. You would have to do it slowly, moving from the front to back very often and making sure that all your threads are tight before you wind on, bit by bit. It’s tedious but I’ve done it.
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I have never used a warping mill before and this is the first time I have seen it demonstrated. I’m wondering how you know how long the warp is in the mill. Is one revolution a yard? Are all mills the same diameter? It seems like the floor mill is bigger than the table mill.
Thanks for your help.
Robin
Colorado
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I have a super hard time keeping my chain under control when taking it off my Schacht mill (that does not have a pin), can you just remove it without chaining and them take it to a door knob to chain under tension? Thank you so much for these videos!!
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Hi Kim,
Have you tried to lean against the mill while you’re chaining if you’ve secured it to the table with clamps? Depending on the length of your warp, you could try removing it and take it to a door knob but I would try first to lean against the mill. With my floor loom, I use my foot to hold it in place but that’s not going to help you with a table top one 😉
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I used to use a warping board, but it hurt my shoulders like you said. I now have a warping mill, but I always wondered why my threads were so twisted. I was building the warp by going on either side of the guide string, not by staying under it all the time. I usually could get them straightened out when putting them on the loom, but getting them separated for dyeing has been a problem.
Have you ever used a raddle cross? The last warp I wound I put the raddle cross at the top of the mill and the threading cross at the bottom. All my color changes were done at the top mill away from the threading cross. No knots at the back beam. Don’t ask how I know.
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I’m new to this wonderful online guild. I’m so excited! I have a warping mill and all of my warp falls to the bottom before I can start to chain. I watched you hold the mill with your body. I usually loosen the top or bottom to get my warp off of the first peg and that is where it falls. What would you suggest to get the warp off of the first peg without all of this happening? I have a Schacht mill and the peg that is supposed to hold the mill in place does not work on mine.
Thank you,
Emily
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Just tuck the cross end through the last loop and put it away, it will be fine. First make a label showing the length of the warp, number of ends, yarn info, what you plan to make with it and attach it to the warp. I wish I had done that to one I put aside and didn’t get to for quite a while because I found something else I wanted to make first 😉
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Firstly- New to the online guild and love it! So thank you! I have a (probably) silly question- The very first end tied to the either mill or warping board peg is different from the rest in that it is not part of a loop. It’s end is tied. After you start warping each successive pass creates a loop around the peg. When the warp is finished and you remove the warp and start chaining through the loops created by the warp ends going around the peg- there is that one initial singular end not part of the loops that ends in a knot around the peg.
My questions is- I can see that there is even tension created as you maintain tension as you chain on all the loops by your hand being inside and keeping the chain tight as you chain to the next peg or as you turn the mill. But that one end appears to be loose and un-tensioned in your hand. Is there something one does to account for that or is it fine if that one end could flop around? I hope I described that ok!
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That loop will be secured in the first section of your chain. When you put your warp onto the rod at the back of your loom, you will slip that loop onto the rod to secure it. Welcome to the Guild Daniel, and enjoy the ride as you learn about weaving and creating your own unique designs in your cloth!
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Hi — Just joined the guild! in the earlier warping lessons, Jane mentioned that she had an opinion about which way to set things up on a mill, vs the warping board (where it didn’t matter as much). But I didn’t hear any discussion of that in either the tabletop or the floor mill videos. Is there a trick ?
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Hi Jane,
I have been weaving for a few years but felt I had blank areas of knowledge just based on how I learned. You were a Christmas gift from my husband. I really enjoying your teaching method. I have a question about managing yarn that is overspun. I have cones of 20/2 cotton that are quite overspun. Do you have any tips for managing the warp that just loves to twist back on its self? I just watched the warping back to front 27 yards, brilliant!
Donna
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Hi Donna! Welcome to the JST Online Guild. Have you tried using some of that cotton in a weaving sample to see what happens to it when it’s washed? Does it relax when released from the cone? If you are a spinner, you might try spinning an opposite twist to release some of the twist that way, being careful not to totally unply it, and let it sit on the bobbin for a number of days. Or, wind it into a skein taking some of the twist out while you make your skein. Cotton doesn’t have much of a memory, I’m thinking once it is off the cone and untwisted a bit, you’ll be fine. I’m just guessing because I’ve never seen cotton that twists back on itself. Maybe others have better ideas! I’ll be curious to hear how you’ve solved that problem 😏
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Hi Johana – do you mean the yarn you are thinking of is quite stretchy? I’ve asked Ginette if she has ever wound a stretchy warp and her answer is “If the yarn is stretchy, I’d make the warp looser or add extra due to the fact that once relaxed, I’d loose length once it’s off the loom. I’ve done that when I was weaving with knitting yarns.”
Like so many things with weaving – it depends 😉 What kind of yarn are you planning to use?
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Dear Jane
Would you please give me written instructions for attaching the tail. I cannot see the method by viewing the video. Thanks, Jeannette
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Hi Jeannette,
We don’t have written instructions for attaching a tail but Jane does show it in several places throughout the lessons. Have you downloaded the Indexes to do a search of ‘tucking tails’? I believe we have it indexed in a few places. You can find the indexes right at the top of this page: https://janestaffordtextiles.com/online-guild-episodes/
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Hi Jane,
New to weaving, bought a used Gilmore with a sectional beam. I was wondering if I could just warp for each section and put it on using a tension box and just weighting the chain like you do since I am doing it alone. Have not touched the loom yet, learning all.
I guess also there will be a lot more math initially figuring what goes in each section.
Much thanks,
Katie
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Hi Catherine,
I have a sectional beam on one of my looms and I actually dress this loom the same way as Jane does. I don’t use paper as I can’t and I don’t use the tension box, I just use books. I would suggest to make a small warp and give it a try. What you do need to watch as you wound on, that the threads don’t get stuck on top of the pegs on the warping beam. I’m not usually worried if they end up in the next inch section. I just go slowly.
Might be others that can chime in with their experiences with a sectional beam.
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I was preparing a warp with the table mill today and I ran into a problem. I need a warp of 300 threads, but if I proceed as in the video, the threads will not fit next to each other. I assume in such cases you do the warp twice ?
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Hi Jane,
My husband and I just bought a warping mill and were a little confused as to how to use it to warp up. Your video was clear and very helpful. We’ve watched another video (not yours, of course) but it was unclear when they got to the cross and didn’t show how it was done properly. Your video was clear. Thanks for the help.
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