- This topic has 82 replies, 37 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 8 months ago by
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Hi Beth,
I personally…note I say personally, found it difficult and slow…but that could very well just be me.
I started winding with multiple ends and found it faster and easier with no ill effects while weaving….so I just do it that way.
If you have a paddle why don’t you give it a try…..there are a lot of weavers out there who love them. And, that does mean a lot 🙂
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AAAAAHHHHHHHH I missed this video the first 60 times I went through episode 1 (okay, only 5 not 60) and I am so sorry I did because I have a lot of brain fog and went through hell trying to hold the threads right for warping muliple threads. Thank goodness for Ginette pointing me in the right direction…so grateful for every “trick” that makes the whole process of getting yarn to loom less picky!
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Of course you can! As you’ll hear Jane often saying – “there is no right or wrong, just what works for you”. Try it again the next time you prepare your warp, practice makes it easier for some weavers. My aging hands don’t like holding 4 threads but I just wound a 10-yard warp using 2 at a time – slower than those who can hold 4, but I still have a warp wound.
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Hi Camero1949, totally missed your question! You certainly can as long as the pattern doesn’t require a specific colour order combo like the Colour & Weave Gamp. The more you practice, you’ll be able to move from one thread to 2 and so forth. Give it a try with 2 threads, it really cuts down on the time for warping.
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How do you secure the warp chain so that it doesn’t unchain until you are ready to put it on the loom?
second question:
As hard as I try, my threads twist when I am winding 2 ends at a time? I can’t find out when or how it happens- any suggestions?
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If you have made your warp and chained it tightly, you will be fine. I sometimes put my warp in a bag by itself if I’m not going to get to it for a few days. Regarding warping with more than one thread – do you separate your threads between your fingers? Jane demonstrates it in this episode, Watch her hands closely and then you just need to practise! For the longest time I wound my warps one thread at a time, then I moved onto 2 – shhhhhhh, but I still can’t comfortably do four. Bottom line, get a warp on your loom weave it off and wind another warp, over and over again
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Can I use this method to warp multiple colors in a specific order? For example 2 blue threads, 2 white thread, 2 blue threads, 2 white threads (repeat)- It appears that Jane is using multiple colors but may not care the specific sequence of the colors. Thank you in advance-
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Hi Karen, sorry we missed your question!
I think that it could work if you held 4 threads in your hand, one of each colour. I haven’t tried it but when you’re threading, you’ll be able to grab your first 2 of one colour as they are close enough together (within 8 threads) and then your next 2 and such. -
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Hello Jane
I’m trying to watch the videos in Season One but get a message it’s only available to members. I am a member. Perhaps I need to renew my membership, but I have not been prompted to do so.
Thanks for getting back to me,
Ingrid Sochting
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Just say you had to change colour or whatever and broke off and tied to the end near the cross instead of the other end. What would happen when you went to put it on the loom as you would no longer have a nice loop where the cross is to put the back apron rod through but you woud have some loops and some loose ends?
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Are you tieing your new thread to the old when you change colours at both ends? That way you won’t have extra loops to try to catch with your apron rod. I hope I understood your question, Emma.
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Ok thanks, so I guess if you change at the front end you can tie to the last peg, but if you change at the cross end you have to tie to the other warp thread or threads.
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I’ve watched and rewatched but I don’t see where Jane addresses warping with 5 ends at once. I can manage 4 at a time since there are 4 slots on my hand. Does she have 2 threads together in one finger slot??
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Hi Janet, on the Forum, Jane has pictures on how to hold 5 threads in your hand while making the warp. Here’s the link to it, it’ll be half way down the thread: https://janestaffordtextiles.com/forums/topic/warping-with-multiple-ends-sample-2-colour-and-weave-gamp/
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Wow! Thank you Ginette. I’m a new member (have been weaving many many years) and I so wish this on line guild had been available when I started! So much great information and videos. I just had not checked out The Forum but obviously I will from now on. Thank you again for the info and quick response!
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I did the Colour and Weave Gamp before. I am working at mastering warping with multiple ends. I got to:
DDDD/LLLL and it instructs you to use two ends in your hands. I am thinking ahead to my threading. I don’t see how I can keep 4 D together and 4 L together, when they are woven by 2’s (One Dark and One Light??) Don’t they have to be in the same little families? I don’t see how I can move them to be together by D’s and L’s) I am sure I didn’t warp 4D’s by two’s; then 4 L’s bytwo’s: that would be a lot of tying on. I have looked for this particular example and can’t find it. It’s the only one I am troubled with. Thank you, Julie-
Hi Julie, you wind each section separately. Wind D/L together until you have 48 D/L ends in your cross, break off and tie on your apricot. When you have wound 4 of those, break off the apricot and tie on DD/LL and wind those 4 together until you get 44 DD/LL threads in your cross. If you have would the 4 threads together, they will go over your lease sticks together and you can easily straighten them out when you thread your heddles. Jane suggest that you warp the DDDD/LLLL with two ends in your hand. That would be winding DD twice and then LL twice until you have 48 threads of DDDD/LLLL in your cross. Take a look at the photo of the sample on page 1 of the draft and you can see the DDDD/LLLL section in the 3rd row down. That will help you visualize what it will look like in the finished warp. Hope this helps.
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Thank you Sandra. I had done this warp before but a friend just loves all the patterns and I told her I would weave up a runner for her. When I got to the DDDD/LLLL I could not remember what I had done, but I did examine my sample and I did exactly what you had explained above. Whew!! It was the only way I could see it working. Thank you so much, Julie
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I have found a pattern to make a striped towel. It calls for odd number of threads per stripe ( 25 ends or 15 ends or 9 ends). How do I count odd number of threads and when do I change colour?
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Hi Jody – With odd numbers, on a warping board, you break off the odd numbered warp at the opposite end from where you started winding, and tie on your next colour. You do the same on a warping mill. Check your warp when you count at your cross to make sure you are getting the colour changes where your draft calls for them.
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I’m sorry, but it seems that you are just grabbing some colors and making warp threads in all three of these demos. Do you have a pattern? Did I miss it? Are you actually counting your various colors to make your patterns? Are you just making things with random patterns? Counting my colors is a big thing for me, so its freaking me out that you are just merrily warping along without seeming to care about how many of whatever you have. Thanks.
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Jane is winding sample warps to demonstrate how she does that very important job of getting your loom ready to weave! I think, at some point you might see one or some of those warps while she demonstrates dressing the loom. Next Season, you’ll get into Colour and Design and you’ll have lots of fun working with colour. Jane wanted you to understand the basics of weaving first.
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Hi! Jane mentions not making a warp too big on the board, but rather breaking it up into smaller warps so it doesn’t fall of. Is there a trick then to holding tension on both warps while I wind them on? I’ve had to break my warp for Asymmetry and design into two and also the 1st color and weave gamp and then I’ve had a bit of uneven tension, which I think is due to trying to hold two warps while my husband turns the crank!
Thanks so much! I’m really learning a ton!
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Is Jane referring to a particular pattern when doing these warps? I’m not clear on when it is ok to do multiple strands of different colors at a time, and when not. How did she know to start with 4 ends and then go to 2 ends at a time?
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Yes, Jane is winding a warp using the design of a project she wants to weave. The number of threads she holds in her hand depends on the pattern, how many cones she has of a particular yarn, etc. It will all become clear. Am I correct in assuming that you are a new weaver? If so, welcome to our world, Amy!
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How do you manage yarn that is in a cake when warping?
I’ve tried to put it on a dowel in a shoebox but the friction of the cake on the dowel / of the dowel in the showbox is too much, so the yarn tends to slip off the ball and wind itself around the dowel.
When warping with one color I put the cake in a big flower vase and let the cake bounce around. Works great.
However I’m about to warp with several bouts together (for the very first time!) and I don’t have 5 big flower vases…
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I normally put my yarn onto bobbins – the big Leclerc ones that Jane carries. I do a fair amount of dyeing and therefore my dyed yarn is in skeins. I don’t wind it into a cake or ball, that would work for knitting, I wind it onto those bobbins that gives me the control I need when I’m warping. Another way would be to put them in small boxes with a small hole in the top and pull your yarn through the hole.
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Thanks. Buying bobbins from Canada is not really an option (I’m in the Netherlands) – though I wish it was! – but I guess I can find 5 boxes around my house. I’ll give it a try!
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I only have 2 cones of black and 2 cones of white (with a 3rd colour) for the Colour & Weave Gamp. I was doing well until I came to the section for DDD/L.
Is there a trick for doing this one when I don’t have 3 cones of black without constantly cutting and tying my ends???
Edited to add: I did find a way of not cutting and tying as often.
If anyone is interested, here is how I did DDDL with 2 cones of dark and 1 light.
DD x1, DDL x1, DD x1, DDL x2, DD x1, DDL x2, DD x1, DDL x2, DD x1, DDL x2, DD x1, DDL x 1, DL x1
This will give you 4 ends with cutting/tying only 12 times.
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I’ve always wanted to try a paddle but haven’t found anyone where I live that uses one! I’d like to try it first since they are about $30 new I think.
If you find a good video about warping with a paddle I’d love to take a look (ps I have finished watching this video so Jane may have used a paddle here but I didn’t want to miss responding 🙂 ) thanks
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Could you tell me where Jane is warping with a paddle? I’ve serached all indexes but couldn’t find anything. Thanks in advance.
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Reporting on the small boxes solution.
It was not good. Not at all. The boxes kept moving, the yarn kept tangling, it was the most difficult warp to thread ever.
When on the loom, it had the dramatic tension issues at beaming the warp. With lease sticks, going very very slow I have beamed it in a shape that looks OK. At the end of the beaming (I warp F2B) there was a difference of sometimes more than 10 cm in length between threads.
Maybe it’s got something to do with the cotton I used (mercerized with much twist).
I’ll have to find a better solution otherwise I’ll never do a color&weave warp ever again!
I’m hoping the gamp will make up for all these difficulties…
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Please don’t give up on Colour and Weave, Catherine – it’s one of the most versatile weaves in PW and so much fun. Sorry, you had so much trouble warping the loom. That is why I use bobbins to hold my yarn while I warp. I don’t recall ever using the balls myself but I have heard of it being done successfully. Were they centre pull balls? Also – I can’t seem to master holding multiple threads in my hand, but thought if you could, it would speed up your warping. I wind the slow way – 2 or 3 threads at a time – and it works for me. As Jane always says – there is no right way or wrong way to do something – just the way that works for you.
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Can you clarify. I know you advise using spools inserted horizontally in shoe boxed when winding on more than one thread at a time. Do you advise putting yarn cones horizontally on rods in shoe boxes for winding on the warps, or are cones supposed to be standing vertically when winding. Thank you.
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So winding a warp using 4 thread, when it comes to forming the cross would I then put individual threads through the cross one at a time or all 4 together?
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I am winding the warp for Season 4, Episode 8?, (Atwater Shadow Weave). I am winding the warp two at a time (black and color). The way I move my hand around the warping board, sometimes the color order flips. Is this going to cause problems later on as I dress the loom, or will it sort itself out when I thread the loom?
Thank you.
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Hi! I don’t have a warping board or mill yet, (my floor loom is coming in Dec), so I’m watching this series to learn about what I might need. I’ve always just direct warped my RH loom (and so I’m really looking forward to a board or mill!!). I have a 90 cm 8 shaft Louet Spring on order, so its a decent size but not huge. I live in a condo, so not a lot of room for equipment. I’m trying to figure out what size I might need in a warping board, and whether that, or a table top mill would work best. I need something that can be collapsed, or stored under a bed. Have just invested a pretty penny in the loom, so would love to keep expenses on the low end right now. What size warping board is generally recommended for new weavers? Warping/threading and sleying are time consuming, so one of the reasons a floor loom is attractive is the ability to wind on a longer warp than my RH would hold. What IS considered a longer warp? 4 yards seems to be on the shorter end. 22 yards seems huuuuuuge ;-). Is it hard for a newer weaver to wind a long warp well? Is 12 yards more of a sweet spot? I don’t want to pay for a big board if I won’t be using it, but I also don’t want to get a smaller one only to realize within 6 months that I want a larger one. I cannot atm hang a board on the walls (I’m a renter), so should that point me in the direction of the table top mill? Sorry for so many questions today.
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The best way to use a warping board is to hang it on a wall, so I’d think you are best looking for a small table top warping mill. Some weavers prop their boards on a chair but I would think that could be hard on your body. I think most table top mills would fold down and imagine they would fit under a bed, depending on how much height you have under your bed and how easy it is to take it apart. The length of your warps depends on your project, but if you are planning to go into production weaving, then a bigger warping mill would be best. If you hope to weave for the joy of it, then I doubt you will want to put a 22 yard warp on! However, the Leclerc table top warping mill can hold 22 yards! My longest warps have been around 12 yards, by then I’ve dreamed up something else I want to try ;-). As you can guess, I’m in the second category;-). IMHO you’ve got the queen of looms coming your way and the Spring can hold a long warp. I’m excited for you, Lynn.
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Hi Sandra I noticed you mentioned the table top mill holds 22 yards – but how wide is the bout? I’m interested in this mill however since it is half as wide as the floor mill – and the floor mill has never accommodated that long a warp – I’m curious how one can fit that long a warp on the table top mill. If this is possible then I am definitely interested 🙂 thanks
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I guess I should have said “up to” 😉 The length of the warp you can wind is often determined by what you will be weaving – for instance you might get close to 22 yards using a fine silk but wouldn’t get anywhere near that with 8/4 cotton. Here is the description of the table top Leclerc model from Leclerc’s website.
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Thank you for pasting this – however it doesn’t give any examples. I’m in no huge rush to know 😉 so when someone at Jane’s uses this mill it would be great to get some examples. For instance 2/8 (since so many of us use this)… 2/8 cotton of so many ends (eg for a towel at 22″ w just a guess 412 ends) would allow for a warp so many yards eg 10 yards. This would also be great info to put on the site as I am sure others would find it helpful. Look forwrad to hear what you find. thanks so much!
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Just a question: What would happen if you put 3 or 4 threads between two fingers, instead of spreading your threads between several fingers when you’re making your warp? Wouldn’t that be the same result (to me, it would seem easier)?
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Is there a specific reason Jane does not begin with the cross when winding a warp?I have always started with the cross so very curious about her approach.
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Hi Laura,
There’s no difference, it really comes down to what you are used to. I’ve always started my warp at the bottom and done my cross at the top of the warping board or mill. One thing that I like is that my beginning tie on thread and my ending thread will end opposite of where the cross is, when I have even amount of threads 😉
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What do you do when you need to warp one color 2 or more times next to each other (like blue/blue/white, or blue/blue), but you have just one cone of that color? Do you wind an additional spool from the one cone you have? But then you will be warping cones and spools which would have different tensions. Plus, how would you determine how much to separate from the original cone?
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You can wind one warp end at a time, or – as you say, wind it onto a cone and wind on two or more at a time. You are putting tension on your threads as you hold the yarn in your hands, so the tension should be even. If you look at your warp plan and determine how many times you need to wind two blues together, then divide that number in 2 and multiply it by the length of your warp, you’ll know how many yards you need on a separate cone.
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Does Jane always use a warping board and not a warping Reel? I am new to weaving – in fact waiting for my Louet Erica to arrive. I thought the reel may be easier since I have some arm issues from some surgery I had. Also, since it folds down seems like it would take up less space. But if it is not recommended I will find a way to use the warping board.
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Total Newbie here. Inherited a 48″ Fanny and accessories, cleaned it up and fell down the youtube weaving rabbit hole. I’ve done 1 test project and have just dressed my loom with my 2nd project. From watching these videos I see I have made every possible mistake with my warp!! Can’t wait to get to the sections on dressing the loom. Haha, great learning opportunities though. I’m so thankful to have access to these videos.
Both the warps I made were detailed coloured patterns wound on one strand at a time with many many knots where colours joined. What has particularly blown my mind is the idea that as long as my strands are approx. 8 strands apart I can ‘mix and match’ the way I want once on the loom. THANK YOU FOR THE FREEDOM.
Gotta go top up my supply of rubber bands now.
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Hi Jane,
I recently wound a warp with about 8 different colors and no regular repeat. There would be 2 ends of one color and 6 of another followed by 5 of a different color, and so on. I ended up winding them in order, each following the warping order. It took forever! Is there a better method?
thank you,
laurie miller, lauriemiller88@gmail.com
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Did you warp 2 or more ends in your hand as Jane demonstrates in this episode? If you didn’t quite understand it – she also describes it in the Knowledge Base. Hope this helps.
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I’m learning the hard way why Jane says to try and wind a warp all in one go. I’ve got a potential disaster on my hands and I’m hoping someone knows a way to rescue the situation. I’m winding the warp for the asymmetry sample with extra white on each end to make this sample the right width for towels. The warp is eight yards. My life doesn’t allow for warping the all 360 ends in one go so already my tension may have been a bit uneven. But what is more dramatic is that while chaining it became clear that the white ends wound two at a time have much less tension on them than the stripes section wound one at a time. Dramatically less tension. Like those threads were sagging as compared to the others. Is there anything I can do during the spreading the warp in the raddle phase or the winding on phase to correct this? It’s hard to imagine that this project can be at all successful with such a difference in tension before I even get it on the loom. I’d appreciate any advice anyone has to offer.
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I built a warping mill. I used 3/4 inch dowels at 36″ long for the rods to wrap the warp around. After putting nearly 2,000 yards of 8/2 cotton warping 4 ends at a time, the slack on the top was so great, I couldn’t use it. I pulled the cotton back off the mill and put onto 4 different spools and re-warped the mill at 6 yards length instead of the initial 9 yards and broke the warp into 4 sections. I’m almost scared to put the warp on the loom for fear I warped it incorrectly and will be so disappointed when it doesn’t warp on the loom correctly. I’ll use bottles of water as weights on all four chains… I think that will work.
While the warps did not bow the dowels during the smaller warping widths, it felt like I had similar tension throughout, but the cross did not appear real secure. it tied okay, just not sure, about the tension I use on the warping mill. Should I put some conduit over the dowels or just lighten my tension. I saw a video where a woman was using pcv pipe as a warping mill, so decided I was holding the thread too tight.
This is just a hard task for me without asking for input. Thanks for any help you can give. Paulie
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It’s hard to tell without actually seeing it in person, unfortunately. You look like you’ve done a great job of building the mill, but it almost looks like the dowels might be bowing in slightly in the middle. Jane’s table top mill uses metal rods which would not even give at all if you pulled hard on them. Mine – an old Woolhouse table top, is not nearly as tall as yours, and doesn’t noticeably bow under tension. If it is bowing, then your warp would be looser at the top than in the middle, which would have affected the cross. Could you use PVC pipes instead of the dowels? However, I don’t even pretend I know anything about actually building a warping mill – so hopefully someone else can chip in!
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Hello. I am a recent subscriber to your classes, and I am thoroughly enjoying the lessons. I am still on Season 1 and had a query before I went much further. Could you please explain the advantages of warping multiple strands of yarn together? I notice you sometimes do 3 together, and sometimes 5. What is the deciding factor for how many should go together at a time?
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Hi Sandhya,
Glad you’re enjoying the lessons! Warping with multiple threads in your hand helps to reduce the time warping. If your warp is all the same colour, holding several threads in your hand make it faster. Also, the method shown in this video comes up in Season 2 for one of the gamps. As the gamp consists of 2 colours for each square section, for example, one dark, one light, one dark, one light… instead of breaking your thread at each end of the warping board/mill and tie one the other colour, the method Jane shows will really help and you’ll get to try it with 3 threads, 5 threads. Here’s a picture of that gamp by the way, you’ll find it in Season 2 Episode 4 Colour & Weave Gamp.
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