February 9, 2020 at 7:05 pm #154241
Hi, I just got done making a scarf. I used 4/8 Zephyr which is a 50% Merino and 50% silk. When weaving I wove at 12ppi. The design was blocks and border, so I made sure each block and border was measured to the correct length for 12ppi.
After ensuring each block/border was measured correctly for 80″, when I took it off with no tension it only measured 74″?? When following design considerations, the only calc to take into consideration that is accounted is for shrinkage. But 6″ off the length is almost as much loss as shrinkage.
I guess on shorter pieces such as dish towels the loss would be considered minimal so there would be no need to account for the loss of length due to weaving under tension.
Is there something I’m missing? It seems in the future I’ll need to make sure I weave 86″ to end up with an 80″ scarf?
February 9, 2020 at 7:31 pm #154242
Hmmm – I’m surprised that the Zephyr shrunk that much on the loom. Different structures do shrink differently – twill more than plain weave – for instance. I tend to allow 10% shrinkage when I’m working out my warp length using Jane’s formula in Project Planning 101. The Zephyr you used is much heavier than the Zephyr that JST carries and might be a softer spun knitting yarn. If that’s the case, then I could see that it might stretch under tension. Is that what you were using?0
February 9, 2020 at 7:44 pm #154243
I used the same pattern that was given in the Michelle’s Zephyr Scarf Kit I bought from Jane. In her directions she never made mention of shrinkage due to yarn under tension. But then again that used 2/18 Zephyr which would have a different yarn under tension shrinkage. I don’t recall in any video’s with Jane talking about that? It seemed she only took into account for shrinkage after washing.
But now that I’ve looked at this a bit more, it seems like anytime you make something long, you will need to add the shrinkage due to yarn under tension to your calcs. Jane is so thorough I was surprised I hadn’t seen her talk about this. Or perhaps she did and I missed it????
For this 4 strands of #8gauge Jaggerspun Zephyr, it appears you do need to add 8-10% tension shrinkage to you calcs.
February 9, 2020 at 9:08 pm #154248
Have you gone back to Season 1 5.6 – Project Planning 101… Putting it All Together – Project Planning 101? Jane talks about planning your warp including take-up and shrinkage in that video. You might see where your missing inches have gone. Also, I do think your thicker (and possibly softer) Zephyr yarn might also have had an effect on your outcome – JMHO 🙂
- This reply was modified 2 weeks ago by Sandra.
February 10, 2020 at 11:20 am #154278
Rooney – I was “talking” to Jane last night and see below for her advice on working with Zephyr and merino. Hope this helps.
Hi There 🙂
When I’m weaving cotton and linen and silk I measure under tension and I might even when I’m working with some wools…but merino really stretches. Because the merino and silk have been carded together in Zephyr it stretches too. Really, the best way to figure that out is to measure under tension and off tension and see if there is a big difference and then you know how to measure. And…when you notice something like that after you’ve had this happen you adjust your technique on the next piece. 🙂0
February 10, 2020 at 11:32 am #154283
Thanks soooo much for getting back to me and the advice! I have learned soooooo much since starting Jane’s Guild almost a year ago…and am excited for this season too! The one thing I thoroughly love about weaving is there’s always something to learn!
This was a great lesson for me and a lesson I’ll remember in the future! About the only recommendation I would possibly suggest is for the Michelle’s Zephyr Scarf kit….perhaps add a paragraph about this. One reason I enjoy buying the kits is I always learn something new and I like experimenting with new designs.
I’m excited to finish season 3 so hopefully I can be up to date with the classes. I think it would add a bit more fun to be doing the lessons when most people are doing them!
Have a great day and happy weaving!
February 10, 2020 at 12:06 pm #154285
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