Hemp 2/2 Twill with broken point threading sample question

Forums Weaving Discussion Online Guild Discussion Season 3 – Pushing the Boundaries of Plain Weave Hemp 2/2 Twill with broken point threading sample question

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    • #82241
      Christina
      Participant

        Good morning!

        Super inspired by both, receiving some hemp yarn and watching the cotton Sett episode, I dressed my loom to weave a little sample, and of course, have questions now. I wrapped the hemp yarn for twill and that gave me 20 EPI – using a 10 dent reed I then sleyed 2 per dent. Soooo, for a balanced weave I should be aiming for 20 PPI, right?

        Which I am still very far off from- counting only 13 PPI at this point. The hemp is also not the easiest to get smoothly off the bobbin, so am definitely needing some fine-tuning and practice with that.

        And for the sake of sampling: might it be better to just continue for a few more inches with 13 PPI, so that piece of cloth can stand alone as its  own sample, and then switch to getting 20 PPI?  I dressed a three yard warp, so have a bit to play with.

        • This topic was modified 4 years, 7 months ago by Christina.
        • This topic was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by Ginette.
        • This topic was modified 4 years, 1 month ago by Ginette.
      • #82356
        Ginette
        Keymaster

          Hi Christina,

          That’s great that you’re sampling first and did the sett calculations on the ruller! For the winding your bobbins with hemp, you might want to have a look at the Episode from Season 1 – bobbin winding -with mohair 3.2, 6:11 mark. Hemp is a tad rigid and I found winding it like Jane shows in this video (which is the same way I wind linen) really helps to keep the thread nice and tight on it.

          For your sampling, I see your squaring of the negative space with your weft thread & the 2 warp threads together. I would definitely try and get more PPI as your 2 warp threads that are close together are acting as one when you’re squaring. Imagine that they are actually spaced out a bit more then your squaring becomes smaller. Twills do need a closer sett. Hope this makes sense 😉 Then take that sample off the loom, wash it and see if you like the sett. If it’s too tight for what you are wanting, resley your reed to 18 EPI and try that and so on. Samples of 12″ long are a good size to see for drape & hand. You should be able to get at least 4 good samples on your warp. I like your patter by the way!

          • This reply was modified 4 years, 7 months ago by Ginette.
          • #82447
            Christina
            Participant

              Thanks so much, Ginette!

              Washed and drying- I ended up using a double beat to get closer to 20 PPI. Then I re-sleyed (gah, that was an adventure; back skirt or whatever you call the thing attached to the back roller, slid off because only a wee bit of warp was left, barely caught my warp before it de-heddled itself🤣🤣🤣) on a 16 dent reed 2 picks per dent- easier said than done, because it seems to me that with such a drastic reduction in width, I really should have a way to narrow the warp on the back beam, too. I ended up with a whole bunch (like 4) broken warp threads. Anyways, it’s only a sample plus a great learning experience – I could weave enough at the warp faced sett, to get an idea what that would look and feel like.

              Now waiting for samples to dry…..it’s like Christmas! I am definitely a wee bit weaving obsessed 🥰🥰🥰

            • #82496
              Christina
              Participant

                3B40078E-2A63-4BEA-8063-151A802D36FA91551E69-0416-46F4-AB76-53C1EA96373ED7D6FDF6-EB38-4F0E-9A9A-CCB923BA266C1B70D36D-BAB8-4FFB-BCF2-BD4BFA7AA9B848965C7D-C312-46B5-9E40-CDF65577B0167F6CA70C-2822-41C7-8B36-C22757FA135E74C2A71A-9F4B-4CBC-96E9-CA5FE632776E348F3969-21EB-4273-9388-05EC84AF8F05

                ( hmph, they didn’t upload in the order I hoped. Maybe you can figure out how they go together; just wanted to show drape and how open or closed the weave structure is) Here they are! Even though the threading was for twill, I got a sorta kinda plain weave sample, too. That would be awesome for a nice Fall button down shirt, I think…with leather patches at the elbows 😍😍😍 (on threading and plain weave: is it possible to have threadings with which doing plain weave is impossible?)

                The warp faced sample i made to see what this hemp fabric would feel like if made into a heavier item, like a jacket or maybe jean type pants. Amazingly, to this beginner, the warp faced fabric feels softer(even though it is stiffer and thicker) than the more evenly woven pieces. Also, in the yarn description it said that it would soften after three or more washes: should I was them three times, then before I even make a judgement on fabric quality?

                • #82618
                  Ginette
                  Keymaster

                    Hi Christina, great samples!

                    If you were planning on weaving some yardage with the hemp and wanted to see the softness in the end, I would definitely wash them a few more times before weaving more for sure. I’ve done that.

                    As for the twill threading and wanting do also do plain weave, it is possible. Not all twills/patterns can achieve plain weave, it’s all in the threading & tie-ups. For example, if you threaded straight draw twill 1, 2, 3, 4, or 4, 3, 2, 1 yes, you can get PW by having 2 more treadles tied 1 & 3 against 2 & 4. For a point twill 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, 2, 1, or rosepath 1, 2, 3, 4, 1, 4, 3, 2, 1  you also tie 1 & 3 against 2 & 4.  If you had a threading 1, 3, 2, 4 then you would tie 1 & 2 against 3 & 4 for PW.

                     

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