Tagged: # Cottolin 22/2 # Shrinkage
September 9, 2020 at 3:31 am #177579
Dear fellow weavers,
My name is Anke and I am Dutch and I live in Germany.
I’m looking for some advise from weavers with experience with the yarn Cottolin 22/2.
I would like to weave a bookcover from Cottolin 22/2, because it needs to fit snugly I need to calculate the width very carefully. The weave structure will be: Twill stripes => straight draw and Pinwheel treadling in combination with Basket Weave. The end width should be 24 cm (= 9,5 inches) and the end length 143 cm (or 56,3 inches).
How much would you ad on for shrinkage with this yarn?
Thank you in advance for your help,
Anke van Bakel0
September 9, 2020 at 7:39 am #177584
Have you gone back and rewatched Season 1 – Episode 5.6 – Project Planning 101? That would be the best way to get your cloth to the size you want it. Shrinkage is not an exact science – it depends 😉 … on the yarn you are using, where it’s manufactured, the sett you use for your project, the way the wash your finished cloth, etc. I think the answer for you is to sample, sample, sample … measuring before washing and after your samples are dry. If you need an exact width, that will be the only way you can be sure of your final result. Check Jane’s Master Sett Chart where Jane has suggested that all 8/2 cotton setts can be used for cottolin.
It sounds like an interesting project, Anke – hopefully, you will report back to us on your progress. I’d love to see a photo of your finished book cover 🙂0
September 9, 2020 at 10:17 am #177590
Is there a minimum size for a sample to get an accurate result? Would a small band of 3,5 inch work (then I can weave it on my Tape Loom) or is that to small to get an accurate result?0
September 9, 2020 at 12:05 pm #177595
You wouldn’t get the same result on your Tape Loom because you wouldn’t be able to replicate your beat and adjust the sett in your samples. You need to make a good-sized sample so that you can accurately measure the loss in your samples and transfer that percentage to your planning for your final cloth. Keep a record of what you are doing so you can replicate it in your final cloth. Have you reviewed the lesson on Project Planning 101? With that episode, you’ll find a worksheet that you can print out to work how wide and how long your warp has to be to get to the size you want at the end of the day. When you are weaving something where the finished size is critical – you really need to do your “homework” before winding your warp.0
September 9, 2020 at 12:52 pm #177602
I agree that it is probably best to sample – but just for a point of reference I just finished weaving hand towels in twill on my 16 shaft loom using Borgs 22/2 Nialin (cottolin) set at 24 epi. They were 20 inches wide by 28 inches long before machine washing in warm water and machine drying. After measuring the difference before and after washing I calculated that the shrinkage was 15% in width and 20% in length. Of course it might be different for the much narrower item you will be weaving.2
September 9, 2020 at 1:26 pm #177605GinetteKeymaster
Hi Anke, I’m like Sandra (& Nina), I like a good-sized sample to see the final fabric after I’ve washed, dried and pressed it. I usually do a 10 to 12″ wide sample on the loom. I love to weave with the 22/2 cottolin, one of my new favourites! The one I’m using is JST’s Venne’s Organic Cottolin and I’ve kept some notes if this helps, done in plain weave, 25″ wide on the loom (with my own draw-in but you need to account for yours and how much) and off loom, washed, dried in the dryer and pressed, 21 3/4″ wide for final width. Washed in hot water and hot setting on dryer.
I agree with Sandra, best to make a sample as you’re looking for a specific end width with some different patterning of twills with basket weave.
- This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by Ginette.
September 9, 2020 at 2:28 pm #177616
Yes – I forgot that my shrinking percentages would also include take-up!1
September 9, 2020 at 3:54 pm #177624
Sorry – this post is a test. I am just testing my ability to respond to this Forum commentary because I’ve been having a problem posting properly (even though my postings appear ok).1
September 9, 2020 at 5:29 pm #177664
What kind of issue are you having, Nina? Your posts come through at our end – and we do so appreciate them!0
September 10, 2020 at 5:46 am #177693
Thank you for your advise! It is a great help to have an starting point with the calculations! I calculated that I will have enough material for a large size sample. So I have my homework sorted out for me now 🙂
Wenn I have some results I will post a picture, it can take a while 😉1
September 10, 2020 at 1:08 pm #177746sylvia.lowryParticipant
What a challenge you have set for yourself! I don’t think I would ever attempt to weave with such precision. What pattern are you using for your cover? If it is like a dust jacket but with pockets rather than flaps for the cover to slip into for security, then you don’t need to be so precise with your weaving.I am supposing the cover would be the exact height of the book and contain a pocket at either edge for the front and back covers to slip into.I presume you would want a snug fit. So weave a piece of cloth wider and longer than required. Secure the raw edges with a zigzag stitch and wet finish. After washing, measure the precise finished height you want including the seam allowance to form the pockets and upper and lower hem and cut if necessary. Zigzag or serge after the new cut. The selvedge edges will will be the visible edge of the inside pocket. Sew the pockets to the exact height of the book, then hand stitch the hem on the top and bottom of the cover and you are done. Much easier than all that sampling.
I too would love to see a photo of the finished product however you get there.
September 11, 2020 at 8:45 am #177830
Thank you for the Tipp, that is a good backup plan if my sample doesn’t work out the way I would like 🙂
September 11, 2020 at 9:40 am #177832
I was getting some “critical error” messages when I tried to post. Was in contact with Alastair (your web design person?) and I think the problem is resolved.1
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