Deflected double weave

[Ed Chapman]

I need a recommendation for what sett to use for 2/18 merino (Jaggerspun). I have never done anything like this before.

[Sandra]

Hi Ed, have you checked Jane’s Master Sett Chart?  Also, you’ll find sett suggestions with the yarns carried on the JST shop.

[Ed Chapman]

Thanks Sandra… I did check the Master Sett Chart first (of course) but wasn’t sure about the double weave aspect… I want a draped but not weak textile. I usually weave twills using this wool at 18 epic and love the results after a light fulling.

[Sandra]

I think it depends on your actual double weave structure and what you want as the final look.  You can do so many different things with it.  In this case, I would sample and see which result I prefer.  Keep us posted on your results.

[Ed Chapman]

OK… into the breach….I’ll keep you posted!

[Jane]

Hi Ed,

I sett mine at 20.  I never really think of deflected double weave as a true double weave.  You don’t have to double the density of the warp like you do in say a double width piece of cloth.   I always think of it as blocks of plain weave that deflect under and over each other.  I think it should be called deflecting plain weave blocks 🙂

Hope this helps,

Jane

 

 

 

[Ed Chapman]

Update… So great to hear from Jane!

The study is still ongoing and once I have all my samples done I will send in pictures. I absolutely love the 18/2 merino. Its  pleasure to weave with and its well-behaved. First I can say the change in deflected plain weave after wet treatment is astounding. I had so much fun watching it.

My first sample was at 32 epi and 32 ppi. I used an 8 dent reed with 4 per dent. I got a very dense finished cloth that was very interesting in its texture- would make great placemats or a bedspread if I had like 8 years to wind THAT warp. 18% shrinkage across the warp.

The second sample was at 27 epi and 27 ppi. I used a 10 dent reed sleyed  2-3-3. I got a much nicer cloth that would work for a shawl but was still a little to blankety. 18% shrinkage again.

I am threading the third sample now at 24 epi. I am using a 12 dent reed with 2 per dent. Should have picture ready maybe by next weekend.

This has been a lot of fun so far and Sandra was right… sample sample sample. Its the only way to know what is really going to happen. If I have enough warp left I may go all the way down to 20… as Jane recommends….but I get nervous when I can see too much light through the web…but I’m getting better.

Happy weaving!

 

• This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by Ed Chapman.

[Ed Chapman]

Here are the samples. Starting on left: 24 epi, 27 epi, and 32 epi

The draft was from the March/April 2020 Handwoven Magazine.

[Jane]

Super cool Ed 🙂

I’ll try to post more often….it is just that Ginette and Sandra do such a kick ass job!

[Ed Chapman]

OK Jane… you were right. I went with 20 epi (2 per dent in a  10 dent reed) for the two shawl project I am working on on it the wool seems happier…. I am sure it’ll be just right after the water-magic. I am trying for a peacock feather color effect… enjoying every pick. Oh and I did not notice the threading error until I took this picture.

[Author]

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