David loom – lams/shafts uneven?

Forums Weaving Discussion Online Guild Discussion Season 1 – Foundation David loom – lams/shafts uneven?

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    • #51316
      Patricia
      Participant

        First practice warp, and I’m still in a very steep learning curve with my brand new David 90cm.  As you look in the photos below, the shafts and lams are rather uneven relative to their “neighbors.”  Is this a problem that needs correction – or am I just obsessing over this needlessly?

        This practice warp (10/2 cotton; 304 ends sett at 24) is threaded with point twill (1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1,8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8, repeat), with a floating selvedge (because it’s twill).  Current tie-up (treadles L to R):  2,6,8; 1,5,6,7; 4,6,7,8; 1,3,5,7,8; 1,2,4,6,8; 1,2,3,5;2,3,4,7; 1,3,7

        My intent with this first warp was to throw everything into it, change the tie-ups a few times, and experience everything at once (and, yes, I’m a glutton for punishment!).  Probably should have stuck with a straight draw and plain weave… sigh.

        After 10 years with my two previous Schacht 8-harness looms (46″ standard, and later a 36″ Mighty Wolf), not to mention the fact that this is my first experience with Texsolv heddles (previously used inserted eye), I feel like I’m back in “weaving kindergarten.”

        Many thanks in advice for your thoughts and advice.

        After solving this dilemma, I will continue feeling like a novice and return to obsessing over my selvedges.  After years of beating on a closing shed and using a temple, I’m trying Jane’s open shed/no temple method and my selvedges are embarrassing!

        Patricia

        uneven shafts

        uneven lams

      • #51317
        Sandra
        Keymaster

          The first thing I would do, Patricia, would be to double check the lengths of your tie-up cords and if that doesn’t make it better – check the lengths of your shaft cords.  The shaft cords should all be the same length as should the tie-up cords.  If they are, and you still have a problem, let us know.

        • #51329
          Patricia
          Participant

            Thanks, Sandra.  I stand corrected….  At first, it seemed that the tie-up cords all had 17 “holes” between the hole that hooks onto the screw in the side of the treadle, and the hole used to hitch the cord to the lam.

            However, after I re-installed the blocking pin, I decided to try another tie-up.  Well… I did find that one of the tie-up cords was in the second-to-last serviceable hole at the treadle attachment screw.  And, another tie-up cord was also in the second-to-last serviceable hole near the lam attachment hitch.  I need a brighter light when I crawl under the loom, apparently!

            In the photo below, I have installed the blocking pin in the cams, and all shafts and lams are even (so clearly, the shaft cords are the correct length – a good question to ask, though, since I had unhooked each shaft initially to add 25 heddles to each.  I LOVE the knitting needle trick for that!).

            Thank you again for your helpful (and prompt) reply – much appreciated!

            blocking pin in cams

            • This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by Patricia.
          • #51373
            Barbara
            Participant

              Hi Patricia,  I have a David loom as well.  I love mine!  I was wondering what the “knitting needle trick” was that you mentioned.  It sounded like it might have something to do with adding heddles and that is a nightmare for me. I would love to find a trick that helps with that. 🙂 Thanks and enjoy your David.

              Barbara

            • #51383
              Patricia
              Participant

                Hi, Barbara. As I mentioned, my David is brand new… delivered just last month.  As such, I was the one who assembled it and, on the last page of the assembly instructions, the “knitting needle trick” was discussed and illustrated. As I ordered 200 additional heddles (I wanted 125 on each 36″ shaft), moving/adding heddles was a concern – but proved to be very simple following their suggestion.

                Once the blocking pin is in place to stabilize the cams, you need to use four twist-ties to make a secure bundle of the heddles before you remove them from a shaft!

                I happened to have a couple of ancient 14″ pairs of metal knitting needles (sizes 6 and 8), which were perfect. You insert a knitting needle through all the cords that the upper shafts bars are connected to (a few holes above the hooks) – on the side you want to add/remove the heddles. Now when you unhook an upper shaft bar at that side, its cord will stay in place.

                In addition to the suggestion by Louet, I also placed a knitting needle through all the cords connecting the lam to the lower shaft bar (roughly in the middle of each cord).  That helped to keep the lower cord from dropping underneath the treadles!

                I took a screen shot of the photo in the instructions (see below); and here’s the link to the PDF file of the current David loom assembly instructions – scroll to the last page:

                https://www.louet.com/wp-content/uploads/I_David2_V1_EN.pdf

                knitting needle trick

              • #51432
                Barbara
                Participant

                  Wow!  I don’t know how I missed that when I put mine together.  That makes it look so simple.  Thank you so much for the info!

                • #52388
                  debzx1
                  Participant

                    Hello

                    I weave on a David and generally love it, though have to remember to change the lifts.

                    I’m having a problem though…weaving with a fairly thick yarn, wool 2 ply, like shetland. Twill set up and it just seems to come out as weft face …I’ve tried tabby but also doesn’t weave up properly…can’t make out what I’m doing wrong.  Love my yarn and colours so want it to work! Especially as its supposes to be a Christmas present!ie

                    Debbie in Devon UK.

                  • #52462
                    Sandra
                    Keymaster

                      Debbie, what did you sett your warp at?  It sounds like you might have been beating a bit hard and not “squaring” your warp and weft to allow for fulling.  Might be a good time to review Season 1: Episode 4 – Let’s Have a Chat About Sett.

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