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Hello I’m a new David owner. Please can anyone advise on the adjustments to make to enable the bottom of the shed to touch the shuttle race? I’ve got the sliding beater at its maximum top position and the threads are still shy of the race.
I’m wondering if my shafts are too high as the warp travels through the heddles at quite a sharp angle.
Anyone else experienced this problem I’d love to hear from you. I’ll try and attach a photo -
Hi there,
I would take the lease sticks out if you still have them on and then see if that helps when you have an open shed. Is your reed sitting nicely in the beater grooves? Also, did you weave for a bit where your apron bar that you attached your warp on in the front is passed the breast beam, that can make a bit of a difference at first.
If you’re beater is at it’s highest position, you could look at adding the little white pegs on the lam cord as well until the harnesses lower, but I would do that after checking some of the above first.
In Season 1 Episode 8.2 on the David loom at the 4 minute mark, Jane has a great view of how the threads should be if you want to have a quick look at it. Let us know if you’re still having issues.
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Thanks Ginette. I’ve checked the easy things. Lease sticks out. Reed seated well. Cloth already winding onto cloth beam. The sharp angle of warp entering and leaving heddles remains unchanged but maybe that is the norm for the David.
I watched 8.2 first time out and I’ll review again. My shafts look pretty good in height compared with Jane’s set up. I’m too scared to start messing with the pegs on the lamm cords without really understanding what I’m aiming for.
Maybe my expectations are too high and the shed doesn’t actually plan on opening completely flush with the race on this loom 🤔
Still stuck. I’ll mull it over some more but if anything else occurs to you please let me know.
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Also wanted to confirm this is the second warp on my new David and it treadles beautifully. I’ve double checked every end is correctly through the heddles and the fabric it is weaving is lovely and even. I’m used to a table loom so I’m efficient at throwing a shuttle without a race. It would just be nice seeing as the David has one to be able to use it.
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The little white pegs, each one will shorten by 1/16 of an inch and will help bring the harness down. But looking at your open shed photo, the harnesses don’t look quite even and may need some adjusting.
When your shed is open, you bottom threads should be sitting on the bottom of the reed and they’re not…7
The texsolv cords that attach the top and bottom of your harnesses at the hooks, which hole are they in and are they all in the same hole on each cord?
Do you have the David assembly instruction manual?
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Thank you for your persistence and patience. The cords top and bottom of the harness have the hooks all in the last holes. Maybe I could just move those all along one hole to improve things.
I’m printing out the pdf David assembly details and will have another go at understanding how to make the necessary adjustments to bring the bottom threads of the shed flush with the base of the reed.
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So not the cords then 🤔 this gets trickier and trickier.
This is what Louet say in the manual. It appears it will just be trial and error from here on in so wish me luck…
So the level of the shafts is determined by the distance between treadles and shafts and not by the lengths of the disc cords from which the shafts hang. If necessary, the level of the shafts has to be adjusted by adjusting the lengths of the slanting cords that connect the shafts to the lams.
When you shorten these cords by one loop at the hooks of the lower shaft bar, the shaft will come down about 2 cm (3/4”). In most cases, that will be too much. For finer adjustment, use the plastic pegs to adjust the lengths of these cords. Every loop you thread the peg through, will shorten the cord by about 1.5 mm (1/16”).
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I’m sticking my nose in😉. I bought my David about 15 years ago before the new beater came on the market. We had to drill holes in the side of the loom to add the holder for the rods on both sides of the loom. We can talk more about that after you have your feeding through your shafts happily. I’ll attach some photos of mine which has a simple PW warp on it at the moment.
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Your bottom threads look so much better!
Thanks Sandra for posting your pics, I didn’t get around yesterday to finish sleying my reed but did this morning. Here’s a picture of my open shed (the threads sit at the bottom of the reed and a tad above the beater) and the distance of the bottom of the cams to the top of the harnesses. I resized my photos but they are still huge 😉
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Thank you both for the great photos. I just took my latest project off the loom yesterday but plan on dressing the JST season 4 Lesson 3 twill gamp tomorrow and will look closely at where my warp threads sit. and take a photos to add to this thread. I’ve been having problems with missing the floating selvage
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Hi fudsy1,
If you’re missing your floating selvedge, what I do is sley the floaters in a dent of their own. It’s solved my missing them as that can be so frustrating! I’ve also started to put a weight on each floater when I notice they are not staying in the middle of the shed, that’s usually when I’ve woven 1/2 of my warp that it needs that little extra weight.
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Thanks so much for the photos. Still some detective work for me to do to improve the top of the shed but at least I am operational now.
I appreciate the help from both you and Sandra so much. What a wonderful warm and comforting place this is to be in the current extreme situation we all find ourselves.
keep safe and keep weaving ❤️
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