a question about sett

Forums Weaving Discussion a question about sett

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    • #154157
      Elizabeth Hill

        I’m fairly new to weaving and have just joined the online guild. It’s brilliant!! I do have a couple of questions about sett:

        1) If I am weaving at 16 epi for a tea-towel (with 2/8 cotton), why would I not have a sett of 16 instead of 18? I used the substitution chart so used an 8 inch reed dented 2 2 2 3. It worked and I managed to get a balanced cloth at 18 epi, but had to beat pretty hard.

        2) Is it possible to get balanced cloth with weaves other than plain weave and twill? I’m thinking summer and winter . . .




      • #154200
        kathleen ready

          Hi Elizabeth, I remember when I first started weaving, using the setts suggested in Handwoven Magazine, (20 epi and 20 ppi) for plain weave and finding I couldn’t get 20 ppi, even if I beat like hell. I was so glad to learn from Jane,  “it isn’t right or wrong “ it’s what you like, the feel of the fabric and the drape. I now use 18 epi and sometimes I get 17 ppi. I’m okay with that and my towels after they are washed feel good to me. So if you like the fabric at 16 epi and 16 ppi then keep doing what you’re doing is my thought.

          As for balanced cloth when you are weaving with a supplementary weft. The short answer is “yes”. The “ground” of fabric will be balanced.  The way you can tell if an overshot pattern is the correct or balanced sett, is that you  should see a 45 degree angle in the pattern. This is because overshot is a twill based weave structure.

          Your sett will also depend on the size of the weft pattern thread and if you want your cloth to be firm or draped. This is a good time to sample.  With a Summer and Winter pattern (the ground is balanced), and I look at the pattern blocks to see if they are square by weaving a sample.

          Hope this helps and have fun with your weaving, that is the most important rule. I’m 10 years into it and still love the process.

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