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Fine tuning a Hollandia Loom
Here are some photos to show you what you will have when your loom is fine tuned. The first few shots are of the loom with the blocking pin in so you can see where things should be when the loom is in neutral.
The warp should be coming through the reed somewhat in the lower middle. Below are shots of the treadles and tie-up cords. The long cords should be 23 1/2″ long off the lamm. The short cords should be 15″ long off the lamm. All long cords run in front of their lower counter part.
There is a slight swag in them, which is okay, they will never be perfectly tight. The next photo shows the angle of the treadles in neutral.
The next picture shows where you adjust the height of the beater. If your beater is too high, your shed will never fully open. The little feet that screw into the vertical beater legs are on a screw that is about 7″ long. You can screw them in or out to adjust the height of your beater. Do this when you have a warp on and when you are stepping on a treadle. Your shuttle race should support the lower part of your shed when the shed it open. Don’t even try to adjust your beater unless there is a warp on. These last photos show the treadles with the blocking pin out. When you step on a treadle some of the cords on other treadles will go slack. That is completely normal. The treadle should not hit the floor when fully down (see my finger).
With parallel counter-marche looms the treadles do not just pop back after you take your foot off a treadle, they may stay down until you step on the next treadle. This can actually be handy because you can remember where you left off. You will always have to take your foot completely off of one treadle before another will go down. This is because you have everything tied-up on your loom, both sinkers and risers. This is common for counter-marche looms. And this is a photo of the famous Louet shed on a Hollandia.