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June 22, 2021 newsletter

New JST Kit!
Sea Foam & Pebbles
Designed from the lessons below

These towels are the result of a friend’s request for a thinner towel, with texture. We often weave towels with Bouclé in the warp and weft. That combination sett at 12 EPI and woven at 12 PPI makes for a lovely drapey, textured towel.

How to make them thinner….hmmm. Okay I’ll change the warp to 8/2 cotton and keep the same EPI/PPI – I’m always up for a challenge! The beat was very light and I watched the negative space in the web more than I watched the actual fell line. I was looking for little squares at the interlacement points and that really helped. After the first few inches, my beat was bang on and these wove up very quickly. Once washed, they fulled beautifully and have given my friend exactly what she wanted. The colours she chose reminded me of pebbles on the beach. It was so much fun to play with colour and repetitive sequencing in the weft. I thought I had made a 13 yard warp but it turns out it was only 10, so I just got 9 towels…but if you make it 13 yards, you’ll get 12! You’ll have plenty of yarn in your Sea Foam & Pebbles kit.

Level of Difficulty: Beginner
Weave structure: Plain Weave
Material: 8/2 cotton & Bouclé cotton

Each kit makes: 12 Towels

Purchase Sea Foam & Pebbles Kit

Jane’s Weaving Architecture:

Step 1 of the Design Process, Part 2

Above are 2 samples woven from the same warp. In Season 2, Episode 2 we learned how to pull the red stripe out of the warp and replace it with a charcoal stripe. Then we learned to resley the warp to a more open sett and then used a heavier weft which created a perfectly balanced piece of cloth.

Today we continue our adventure into the architecture of cloth. As those of you who know me – you’ve seen how excited I get when talking about the endless possibilities of sett. Sett is like a magic wand that you can wave over your design and have the results change with very little work on your part 😉 You can even change your mind after the warp is on your loom.  Hummmm, think you want to open things up – easy peasy – as members of my School of Weaving have learned. The possibilities that sett brings to your cloth are endless. You’ll find a link below that will give you the setts that I use after years of weaving with the yarns we carry in the studio. But first – just look at the possibilities with just 8/2 cotton!

For most of my weaving career I have used many of the same yarns over and over again and I have learned that there is not just one sett for any one yarn, even if the structure never changes. For instance, consider the number of setts possible for a 8/2 cotton:

For our visual learners, these photos of finished pieces should give you a better idea of the many possibilities for handwoven cloth:

8/2 cotton warp and weft sett at 22 EPI /22 PPI woven in Twill as in our Garabaldi Flats 4 shaft version Tea Towel Kit

8/2 cotton sett at 12 EPI woven with boucle cotton at 12 PPI woven in PW delightfully illustrated in our new kit Sea Foam & Pebbles

Jane’s Fave Tea Towel Kit woven with an 8/2 warp and weft sett at 18 EPI /18 PPI woven in PW

8/2 warp and 20/2 silk weft sett at 18 EPI/18 PPI woven in Twill was the finale piece from Primaries & Secondaries Episode Kit….crazy huh!

8/2 warp and 20/2 silk weft sett at 16 EPI/16PPI woven in PW as in our Plaid Lesson Kit finale piece

8/4 cotton warp and 7 gauge bambu weft sett at 36 EPI for Repp Weave and then resleyed and opened up to 12 EPI/ 12 PPI in Plain Weave….two dramatically different fabrics from one yarn and one warp. I demonstrate this piece in the Warp Faced Episode.

Two things of note….

  1. We can only weave the open setts if we have great technique and know how to control our beater.
  2. As our sett increases there will come a point when we will no longer be able to weave the cloth balanced, no matter how hard we beat, because the fabric is heading towards warp-predominance. That’s not a bad thing, and under some circumstances might be just what you’re looking for.

At 40 EPI, 8/2 cotton will be totally warp-faced. So, if you want to use this yarn to weave Repp….you got it, baby! One yarn, many different setts and many different types of fabric. How cool is that! So many possibilities hidden in one yarn and it is knowing how to use your reed that makes it all possible.

I sample in plain weave then twill and finally explore supplementary weft structures.

From this testing, I develop what I call my “canvases”—and once I have those canvases I get to add graphic and colour, which I’ll get into in greater detail on the next blog post.

As promised, here’s the link to Jane’s Master Sett Chart – this is just my experience, try changing your sett and keep notes on your results on your own Master Sett Chart. Next time, we’ll delve into design and division of space as we start to see the world through Fibonacci’s eyes 😉

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