Fixing a knot in your warp while on the loom.
Jane demonstrates how to count your warp threads at the cross.
Not sure on how to read weaving drafts? Jane explains all the basics and clears up any confusion!
One thing confuses me: Why was it never suggested to do the tie-up FIRST? It would be so much easier to see and access the shafts if the warp wasn’t in the way. Is there a reason why the tie-up has to be the last step?
You can tie-up your treadles whenever you want, before you start dressing your loom or at the end. That is up to each weaver. The more you tie-up the treadles, the faster you get…which is a good thing. If I am tying up 14 treadles I don’t do it all in one sitting..that would be hard on any loom but it will always be more tedious on any counter-marche loom because you have twice the number of tie-ups to do….breaking the job into parts is a good idea. Tie-up 4 treadles, get up, have a stretch or a cuppa and then do another 4 etc. I have always looked at the tie-up this way…….it only has to be done once for a warp and maybe only once in awhile if you are on a roll with a specific weave structure. The benefits of the parallel counter-march in regards to ease of weaving on the body (which is where we spend most of the time at our instruments) far outweigh the tie-up, especially if you put on long warps. Weaving 12 shaft patterns on a Spring is a dreamy experience because the lift is so easy.
My warp is slightly off the shuttle race about 1/8” but I don’t see a way to change it. Being really watchful has helped the problem. I’ve had two skips but was able to repair them right away.
If you look at the bottom of your beater arms on the inside, there should be a long metal bracket type thingme with 2 nuts on them. If you undo those nuts you will see that your beater will move up and down. Lift your beater up as far as it will go…. Do one side at a time and tighten them up…. I betcha your shuttle race will be sitting beautifully underneath your warp supporting it. Throwing your shuttle properly = good technique and good technique = good cloth :^) Always weave mindfully, watch how you put that shuttle into the shed…. If it is dipping you will pick up warp threads.
I bought some Euroflax from you thinking I would use it for napkins, but watching one of the videos you mentioned that you would not put Euroflax in the dryer, so I’m thinking it may not be appropriate for napkins? I also saw in a
Oh Gee….the real problem is linen and dryers. I like nice crisp linen, and dryers soften it and make it limp. I do use Euroflax all the time in napkins and tea towels. I wash them in the machine and I put them in the dryer for maybe 1 minute to get them warm. I have a folding drying rack and after that minute is up in the dryer I snap them open, smooth the hem and selvedges between my thumb and pointer finger and then I hang them on the rack. I don’t have to press them then. I just fold them up and they look great. I love them and they last forever.
Louet has really designed Euroflax for the knitting world and they say that you can throw the garments in the dryer…..so it is just my fussiness around linen that prevents me from doing it. All my clothes are linen and I treat them all the same way. They go in the dryer for that 1 minute to get warm and then I immediately hang them to dry and I don’t have to iron them.
Make your napkins out of that Euroflax, your lips will feel special
Below, you will find a response from Jane to the JST Online Guild to a concern about weaving with linen on a Jack Loom. We thought it might be helpful to others looking for information on weaving with linen.
I hope I haven’t caused any anxiety about using linen…I really want you to try using linen…so many weavers are scared of it, and there is a lot of hesitation around this fibre.
What I know for sure is this:
Looms that have equal tension on both parts of the warp weave linen beautifully.
Many Jack looms do have a dip with the warp coming lower from the back beam into the heddles and then up again to the cloth beam (that is a great thing)…that is the equalizer for the warp so that the bottom part of the warp is dipping to counter the other part of the warp moving up….BUT, not all looms are created the same.
You have to know your loom.
There are so many different looms out there and I only know the ones I use.
Any counter-balance loom has both parts of the warp in action as do counter-marche looms.
The only Jack looms I have are Schacht and they have that beautiful dip which I’ve talked about in other episodes.
The Louet David loom is a sinking Jack but if you look at the warp it comes out of the reed at the top therefore when you step on a treadle those threads moving down have an equal tension to those that are up.
The same thing is happening on the Megado and Octado because while the harnesses just rise, the entire back beam of the loom rises up to create a counter-marche shed.
Don’t be afraid, make a small warp and try it out…you have nothing to lose just so much to gain when you are learning about a new yarn and you are learning about your equipment.
What would be awful is you not trying this magnificent yarn. Be adventurous and give it a whirl…you will most likely discover that you love love love linen.
Have you ever tried sectional warping with mohair?
I have never used a sectional for mohair simply because of the tension box. I have a Leclerc tension box and the reed would have to be replaced in it. The tensioning over and under the dowels is just like using lease sticks and lease sticks and regular back to front warping is very hard on mohair and more specifically the warper. Who needs to lose mo’ hair! I mastered that tie on method 35 years ago and have never looked back.
Hoping someone can help me with a shed problem on my Jane.
I purchased my loom and stand used. The loom is in excellent condition overall, and has the upgraded rollers. My problem is related to the lifting action of the toggles.
When I begin to flip a toggle down, the shaft rises as expected. However, when the toggle goes all the way down, the cord slides into the toggle’s slot and the shaft slips down a bit. I could live with that, but unfortunately, there’s a big difference between the amount of slip. There’s not much on shaft 1, then an increasing amount of slip as you go up to shaft 8………………
It’s wonderful when a fellow weaver and solve their problem and let us know how they did – so we can share! Thank you, Rissa.
While waiting for a reply from Louet, I went online and found good photos of the setup process.
Turns out the previous owner had threaded the toggles to the shafts incorrectly. Here’s a photo to explain what went wrong and how I fixed it.